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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2001 p pumped 24v 150 injectors and borgwarner 366, 4K governor spring in pump no fuel plate. What should I try doing to get egts down? Once boost comes up the egts clime out of control, should I put a fuel plate back in or adjust the afc or go up with the timing? Has just a haze of smoke before 1800 rpm then it turns to solid black cloud of smoke once turbo spoils up at 1800 rpm. Egts hit 1200 almost instantly
 

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the old s366 is quite laggy. Even a new super core or center section on an SXE366 would be a nice upgrade. Better turbine wheel/same fitment and more flow from the compressor and 0.66AR cover will mean faster spool and 10% more air.
 

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Is this gonna be a street truck. I have mine set at 18* but I also have compounds. That 366 is part of the issue.

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Discussion Starter #8
It’s gonna be for the street but not a daily driver and some sled pulling. It has a 1.1AR on the s366 right now. Should I buy a new turbo or just switch to a .90AR? In the future it’ll get compounds but the money isn’t there for that right now.
 

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It’s gonna be for the street but not a daily driver and some sled pulling. It has a 1.1AR on the s366 right now. Should I buy a new turbo or just switch to a .90AR? In the future it’ll get compounds but the money isn’t there for that right now.
Dropping down to a .9 housing will help with spoolup some. I would set your timing at 18*-20* and see how it drives after you put the plate back in.

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Well the goal is 800hp so I’d rather get a different turbo then start defueling it with putting the plate in. I’ve heard 24v can’t spool a s400 frame turbo good enough to drive on the street. Is this true?
 

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No thats not really true. What you have to remember is that spooling characteristics are kinda up to how the end user prefers to drive. One person may think a turbo is crazy laggy while the other thinks its not too bad. Now an s400 is not going to be the quickest spooling turbo you could buy but I do believe there are some trick things you can do to help them out. For example anytime you can open up the pathway into the cylinder and decrease the resistance of the air going in I.E. lowering the boost a little by nature you can pickup some spoolup. Boost is simply a measure of restriction in the head so I have a personal theory I'd really like to see done and I somewhat have in race engines. If you went ahead and milled the intake off and did a good port and polish and maybe a cam I believe you would see a noticeable increase in how well the turbo spools. This being because you decreased the resistance of the air getting in and because you were able to get the air in faster and a cooler charge and density then that also means youll begin to burn your fuel sooner and because of that youll be spooling the turbo faster on the exhaust side. Ive heard the cr guys and even the mechanical mafia say they've made around 1200hp on 30psi of boost or even 800hp with 15psi of boost. Boost is just a measurement of restriction so decreasing boost but adding flow means you can make the same or more power with less pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks that was supper helpful so I guess I better look into a cam and having my head port and polished sooner then I was planning maybe before I spend the money on the s465 turbo I want. Can any shop do a decent job porting and polishing or is there a shop known for it out there?
 

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You could always try the cheapest route first and build up from there till you're satisfied with the end outcome. Porting and polishing can get quite expensive. you might start with a cam first or if you want to keep stock cam do a stage 2 head with porting around the valves and on the exhaust side would be a little more economical. If youre not concerned with being cost effective you could just go full tilt and knock off the intake shelf and do it all. Personally I would probably try the turbo on the stock head just to get a baseline for how it feels and if you like it or not then start working up from there. You could do the cam next and then the head. I was going to try it with a stock cam because Im stubborn and I don't think its completely necessary but it will work to your advantage to have a bigger cam. The biggest restriction is in the head at the intake shelf so milling the intake of would actually help the cam even more since the restriction zone is actually before the valves themselves.

Anyone can port and polish if they know what they're doing. You really just need a small drimmel tool and some stone bits and maybe a steel bit or two. However I probably would still have someone do it because when you cut the intake off then the side of the head has to be milled flat so that you have a good sealing surface for your new intake shelf. Plus performance machine shops are going to be a little better at it than one of us who is trying to learn on their first head. Im not sure where you are located but im sure you could ask around and find someone who can do it. I'm in the heartland of sorts for this kinda stuff so i could be at some very big name shops to do this type of work in probably 3 hours or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ya I’m in Vermont so there are only a hand full of small shops that specialize in motor work none realy specific to diesels
 

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You might be able to call some of the bigger name shops and see if they have any cores they can build for you and then you ship your cylinder head back to them once you get the core in.
 
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