Can't believe someone didn't jump on this by now! EGT's should stay below 1250F. Fuel plate adjusting means more fuel so it will get hotter EGTwise. So you just merely have to watch the gauge when you are towing or something to make sure you don't get it too hot.
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Egt Temps?
whats the pros and cons on EGT temps? like high or low?..i was reading an article and it says adjusting the fuel plate will cause EGT problems. what are those problems and what can they do? and how can they be fixed? thanks...
probably a dumb question but im new at this and im just trying to learn. thanks again
probably a dumb question but im new at this and im just trying to learn. thanks again
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1250* you can run all day long. Anything higher, keep it short...
Moving the plate (increasing fuel) will cause more heat from the combustin because obviously you are burning more fuel. Remedies are as simple as a boost elbow or disabling the wastegate, to porting the head and getting a bigger turbo.
Slightly more fuel isnt bad, but alot more fuel is going to require alot more air to complete the combustion and keep temps down.
Moving the plate (increasing fuel) will cause more heat from the combustin because obviously you are burning more fuel. Remedies are as simple as a boost elbow or disabling the wastegate, to porting the head and getting a bigger turbo.
Slightly more fuel isnt bad, but alot more fuel is going to require alot more air to complete the combustion and keep temps down.
thannks for the info guys..how much should i move the plate? i have a 94 12v auto, stock so far..would this be a good idea at this point? thanks
Not with a stock auto it wouldn't. They won't hold much more than stock, if any more.
stock plate?
You should be able to ram it full forward without an EGT issue, but any kind of power increase your trans is not going to like...
You should be able to ram it full forward without an EGT issue, but any kind of power increase your trans is not going to like...
i was thinking about doing a 5speed swap..but i do snowplowing in the winter so that would just be a pain in the ...what could i do and how much would it cost on average to build the tranny? cuz i really wanna get some more power out of this truck..its way too slow
Let's "assume" you are going to install parts. New billet torque converter around $1200 (liketime gaurantee) and $500 for complete valve body. You could get a DIY valve body kit that does same thing as complete valve body, but you have to completely disassemble valve body, make changes and then put it back together. The kit scares some people so they just go with complete body. You need the converter because stock cannot handle any more torque than stock and will slip very quickly. You need valve body to increase hydraulic pressure in trans to keep clutches alive and not slip with extra torque. You can also purchase a completely built trans for around $4000.
You can get the parts alot cheaper than that ! A good single disk billet TC for $ 250 & a shift kit , gaskets & seals for $200 . I pull 14,000lb or more & I have a single disk TC & a shift kit in my trans & it works just fine so it should work OK for what ever you do with the truck unless you are doing sled pulling @ the county fairLet's "assume" you are going to install parts. New billet torque converter around $1200 (liketime gaurantee) and $500 for complete valve body. You could get a DIY valve body kit that does same thing as complete valve body, but you have to completely disassemble valve body, make changes and then put it back together. The kit scares some people so they just go with complete body. You need the converter because stock cannot handle any more torque than stock and will slip very quickly. You need valve body to increase hydraulic pressure in trans to keep clutches alive and not slip with extra torque. You can also purchase a completely built trans for around $4000.
the most i do with it is the snowplowing in the winter and pull my atv's and dirtbikes around, maybe a car here and there. im gonna look into the tc and valve body and probably do that after the winters over, thanks for your help guys.:thumbsup:You can get the parts alot cheaper than that ! A good single disk billet TC for $ 250 & a shift kit , gaskets & seals for $200 . I pull 14,000lb or more & I have a single disk TC & a shift kit in my trans & it works just fine so it should work OK for what ever you do with the truck unless you are doing sled pulling @ the county fair
quick question. how long would my tranny hold out for if i were to slide the fuel plate forward and adjust my star screw? im pretty easy on the truck, foots only heavy sometimes. how long would it last till my tc gets destroyed?
i wouldnt move your plate at all with that trans, not really a good power holder lol, if your good with motor skills and are comfortable with motors and what not, save a couple hundred and buy a vb kit, (i got a dtt, great product, great price, and a good name) and you can get a good converter (and not a tci or b&m) for under $700 that will transfer that power. im in your same boat right now, wanting to make a lot of power, but scared of the trans till the dtt stuff is installed, and im also setting mine up for a plow (9'2" with wings) and thats why i went with a dtt kit, its custom to YOUR application. after the vb and converter cut a nice fuel plate and throw in a set of 3k springs and you wont stop grinning. you could scour the classifieds and find a chea vb and converter for sale too, i think there was a dtt for $350. id check here, and compd, theres good deals floatin around there too. if you move your stock plate you could slip your converter which will send a bunch of crap through your trans, or even your forward clutches. do it safe and it will cost a lot less in the long run.
matt
oh, and the egt thing, your pistons will start to melt/expand at over 1250* like said, but, it is possible to run em real high for a short burst, ive had mine over 2000* climbing a sand hill and no problems. but do at your own risk. these people are just full of wisdom here, listen to em and build your truck right.
matt
oh, and the egt thing, your pistons will start to melt/expand at over 1250* like said, but, it is possible to run em real high for a short burst, ive had mine over 2000* climbing a sand hill and no problems. but do at your own risk. these people are just full of wisdom here, listen to em and build your truck right.
Also, im assuming that these guys are running there probs pre turbo, before the turbo and after the turbo is around a 300 degree difference sombody correct me if im wrong here
your tc wont hold all that long it will start to slip, i got my truck about a year ago and jumped right into workin on it, i moved the plate, shaved the plate (almost not there) and turned the screw, my truck had the towing set up from factory dont kno if thats how all cummins come or not but about half a year later, my tc was just about gone. it held fine untill i got into 4th then it sliped like all hell.
pretty much from what i read hear 300 to 400 differenceAlso, im assuming that these guys are running there probs pre turbo, before the turbo and after the turbo is around a 300 degree difference sombody correct me if im wrong here
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