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EGT Question

1850 Views 26 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  jpaulbaker
I just got done installing everything in the SIG...took about 2 days but the results are great and the truck runs smooth.

This is my first dodge but im not new to diesels. I noticed that at idle in park the EGTs sit just under 400*. Maybe im wrong but I am used to letting a truck cool to below 300*?! Running down the road at 65mph on the flat i see about 800* while at WOT on the flat i see up to 1400*. Just about all the EGTs that i see while driving seem high to me. The probe is mounted preturbo in the standard 4-6 collection tube.

I have checked for leaks, even ran without smarty and havent found the problem yet. Do the 3rd gens just run a little hotter?

Any help would be great, thanks in advance.
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400f in drive or park? Thats where mine runs in drive, in park she runs about 280f.
 

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if mine sits long enough im right around 300-320* in park... if your at 400 let the truck sit for a few min and see if it drops... mine gets to 400 quick then takes a lil while to get around 300 :S:
 

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What isspro gauge is it? It mite need to be recalibrated I'd contact Michael @ Isspro on here since he's a sponsor.
 

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It may be a dumb question but did you shorten the egt probe wiring to the gauge? if so it would throw off the calibration. just throwing it out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
400f in drive or park? Thats where mine runs in drive, in park she runs about 280f.
That is in park....if i let it sit for about 3-5 min i will see the EGT drop to about 350. However, if the truck was just driving, it takes about 5-7 min to get the EGT down to 350.

It may be a dumb question but did you shorten the egt probe wiring to the gauge? if so it would throw off the calibration. just throwing it out there.
No, the wires were never cut. But i appreciate the help.

What isspro gauge is it? It mite need to be recalibrated I'd contact Michael @ Isspro on here since he's a sponsor.
Thanks, I will get in touch with Michael as im pretty sure its a probe/gauge problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Alright, while i wait for the new amp box from isspro i did some testing and just want to make sure that its not another problem.

I pulled I70 here in colorado on the way to a weekend ski trip and the truck is gettin 18.3 mpg (hand calc) even with the tough pull (and 37" tires). At WOT im still seeing ~1400*F at ~36psi. The truck runs like there is no problem but the EGTs are still higher than i like.

This morning it was 15*F, I started it and let it sit for about 10 min at high idle for the warm up. On the way to the mountain we decided to get some village in (which was about 1 mile away downhill and i never touched the throttle). I know there was no way the trubo was hot but when i threw it in park the EGT was reading 600*F! after about 3 min it cooled to 400* and never dropped lower (just putting the truck in drive the EGTs will climb to ~550 the TC has a lower stall so i know the engine is working a bit but still seems high).

On the drive over to the mountains i noticed that on a relatively slow acceleration (boost about 7-10psi and rpm ~1900) the EGT was reading between 800-900.

Being that at WOT i get just about the max psi out of the turbo (sender is mounted in the intake horn) is it possible that i have a boost leak? I have done some leak checks with no avail to a problem but maybe there is something that im not seeing.

I really hate to shut this truck off higher than 300* but everytime i wait for the cooldown its at ~400. Is there something im missing?

Thanks again for all the help.

BTW smarty jr is set to SW#3 (default for both Timing and Torque) POD 60 with ver 5.10
 

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Shorten wiring

It may be a dumb question but did you shorten the egt probe wiring to the gauge? if so it would throw off the calibration. just throwing it out there.
I bought a set of used gauges and the wiring for the box was cut so it it shorter. The probe wiring itself isn't shortened... would this still throw off the calibration
 

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I don't have a lot of high altitude experience except to know that mine smokes more in Reno at 4200', but at sea level it cools down to 250 or lower in park and don't think much different in NV. If A/C is on or anything else slightly dragging the motor down it will be much higher. Your numbers seem high.

Does a Smarty Jr. boost fool? 36 psi is high for a stocker, right guys? Not sure if this relates.
 

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Your temps don't seem out of line for what oyu have and the elevation. These trucks run a lot hotter than previous versions so it take some getting used to.

If you are maxed at 1400 degrees with those tires and a little extra fuel thats right inline with what the motor is designed for.

The boost is about rght for the power you are running and really doesn't need to be higher.

The low rpm temp could just be the big tires and tighter converter and even then isn't that high. Waiting for shutdown at 300 on these engines is probably excessive. Thats a 12V number so don't read it as gospel. Wet stacking and cylinder wash starts happening under 425 degrees EGT's, th eless time you spend there the better it is for the engine. Dropping the EGT temps is really for shutting down after long hard pulls when the engien is heat soaked and it takes a while to cool the oil and the metal. In those temps empty what you shut it off at doesn't really matter as your oil temp and turbo temp are going to be considerably lower.
 

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Your temps don't seem out of line for what oyu have and the elevation. These trucks run a lot hotter than previous versions so it take some getting used to.
If you are maxed at 1400 degrees with those tires and a little extra fuel thats right inline with what the motor is designed for.
Mr. C I have some problems. 1400 is drag race temp isn't it? Or have I been misreading posts? And the guy says 18.3 mpg, which isn't that much fuel/heat is it? Let's assume his speedo isn't way out of whack.
cerberusiam said:
The boost is about rght for the power you are running and really doesn't need to be higher.
That wasn't my comment. It seems too high for a stock turbo setup, which isn't much higher than 30, and thought it should be suggested in case there is some kind of weird electrical fault going on here. But if a Smarty Jr. raises boost then forget that.

cerberusiam said:
The low rpm temp could just be the big tires and tighter converter and even then isn't that high.
These things don't effect the minimum temp at idle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Appreciate all the replys:

As far as the speedo goes, i have adjusted it based on a GPS nav system using the smarty ABS feature (great job MADS by the way, wonderful product)

I have a Quad Boost fooler on the truck but sadly on or off the boost is the same and I will not clamp the wastegate as i dont want to shell the turbo on an accidental skinny pedal back out at max boost.

I am very happy with the boost and trans temp numbers, the pre cp3 fuel pressure is just perfect constant with the Fass and the air seems to be flowing very well with the S&B CAI/horn and dual 4" cat back. Overall, the mods i have installed are performing just as suspected and the mileage (considering the larger tires) is very good imho. However, like i said, the egts just seem to be a bit high. The wonderful tech support at isspro is sending me a new amp box and until that arrives i just wanted to be sure that nothing else could be the culprit of this seemingly high egt problem.

As i said, i appreciate all the support from you guys, as many of you have forgotten more about these trucks than i will ever know. I am all ears and will keep you posted on what happens with the new amp box when it gets here.
 

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Mr. C I have some problems. 1400 is drag race temp isn't it? Or have I been misreading posts? And the guy says 18.3 mpg, which isn't that much fuel/heat is it? Let's assume his speedo isn't way out of whack.
A stock truck will make 1500 degrees. Add the big tires and a little more fuel and 1400 WOT is not bad at all. ;)

Mpg at cruise don't equate to temps at WOT. Mine will do 18-19 cruising and if I push it over 1600 in EGT's with enough fuel.

Didn't ask how he calculated it and if he reset the ABS for the bigger tires. He didn't seem concerned about mileage.


That wasn't my comment. It seems too high for a stock turbo setup, which isn't much higher than 30, and thought it should be suggested in case there is some kind of weird electrical fault going on here. But if a Smarty Jr. raises boost then forget that.
Smarty remaps the boost tables and turns of the WG control on the 325 engines. I was just commenting its about right for his setup and doubtful there are any leaks.


These things don't effect the minimum temp at idle.
Correct, it won't effect temps at idle but it will throw more heat into things at low rpm's and take longer to cool off. I almost never see under 600 degrees once I am moving. I have a tighter TC, bigger tires, more fuel, and lots of TM removed. I assumed that was it but it looks like the default Jr settiings are close.

Compared to my temps what he sees is not out of the ordinary.
 

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I have a Quad Boost fooler on the truck but sadly on or off the boost is the same and I will not clamp the wastegate as i dont want to shell the turbo on an accidental skinny pedal back out at max boost.

The wonderful tech support at isspro is sending me a new amp box and until that arrives i just wanted to be sure that nothing else could be the culprit of this seemingly high egt problem.
That explains the boost and the Smarty has already probably turned off the WG control as a guess. Crank the full power up on the POD and you should be able to make 40 psi. Maybe its just not enough rpm and fuel to drive the boost all the way.

Defitiely try the amp box and see if it makes a difference. If it does I might have to update mine as its 4 years old and maybe its off also.

Take a look a the thread CAN'T MAKE OVER 24 LBS OF BOOST, lots of discussion on the Quad BF and whether it is any different than clamping the hose. Different people get different results. Right foot is still the best boost controller. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
These things don't effect the minimum temp at idle.
Correct me if im wrong but a lower stall on the TC (which i have) will allow for more power to be applied at lower RPM. If i am correct, that means the tranny will be applying power at ilde (which is why my truck will take off just by releasing the brake). So, if in drive at idle withe the brake applied, i expect the EGTs to be a bit higher but just dont know if the numbers i am seeing are normal. It seems like they might be but the new amp will tell the tale.
 

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That does seem quite hot for the settings you say are loaded. I wonder if its due to the PoD being that low on 60?

But I would say its a gauge issue. It takes me no time to get below 300*, even at altitude. Cruising is about 600 at 75. WOT I won't go over 1250* unless I am towing.
 

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What gears are in this truck? If that thing is running 4:10's it wouldn't suprise me to see 800* on the highway with stockish size tires. If I waited til my truck got to 300* before I shut it down, I'd never be out of the darn thing. I've been shutting down as soon as the needle gets under 400* for 100,000 miles and have no problems.
 
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