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EGT Probe Connector Disassembly

24935 Views 35 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  ken white, 
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While sitting around waiting for a rain squall to pass I decided to tinker with taking apart the EGT probe connectors, I have no idea why anyone would want to take one of these apart. :D :lol2:

The tools I used - bear in mind that I'm just a guy in a garage using whatever I have in my box, the drillbit is a #55 not pictured is a razor blade for cutting the heat shrink.



First remove the heat shrink. (For replacement I used 3/4" dual wall adhesive lined moisture resistant heat shrink from a local electronics store)




Next remove the plastic cap on the back of the connector, pictured below is the latch that holds it on and there are about a dozen ways to pop it off.



After the cap comes the seal, easily removed with needle nose pliers or a dental pick.



To remove the orange 'holder' from the front of the connector use the #55 drill (or something of similar size) and push on the orange tab from inside the back of the connector.







Once the orange 'holder' is out of the way the pins can be removed by lifting the tab (the dental pick works well for this) holding them in from the front while gently tugging on the wire from the back.





When finished you should have this...



For reference the pins are much easier to solder regular wire to with traditional soldering methods.

I have no idea why anyone would want to do this unless a rain squall happens to be keeping you from your wood chipping. :D
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Rockwerx
Good write up...I missed this one till now. Adding some resistors would be a lot easier after tearing the plug down. Thanks!
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aaronesq
Rockwerx said:
Good write up...I missed this one till now. Adding some resistors would be a lot easier after tearing the plug down. Thanks!
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very nice writeup. I dunno why you would do this to put in resistors (for a DIY DPF delete). I just cut the outside jacket, stripped the insulation and soldered on the resistors between each wire. If I ever need to go back to stock (heaven forbid) all I have to do is melt the solder and remove the resistors.

maybe there's enough room for a resistor in the pulg - maybe not, I dunno.....
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S
Resistors upto 1/2 watt will fit inside housing.

I got my hands on some other probes rather than removing the ones from my DPF, at some point I want to modify the probes to appear to be stock to work with a hollowed out DPF... if I ever find someone who wants to sell me a DPF and isn't demanding an arm and a leg for it.
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aaronesq
slagburn said:
Resistors upto 1/2 watt will fit inside housing.

I got my hands on some other probes rather than removing the ones from my DPF, at some point I want to modify the probes to appear to be stock to work with a hollowed out DPF... if I ever find someone who wants to sell me a DPF and isn't demanding an arm and a leg for it.
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good to know. I've got a 1 watt on the 1st EGT & 1/2 watt on the next two.

Tis gonna be hard to find someone willing to let their DPF go (for a decent price). My suggestion is to talk to dealerships..... I don't know exactly what they do with cracked DPFs - but I've seen a ton of them here at our small dealership.... if you've got a good relationship with one maybe they would sell one to you for cheap? Prolly not - but might be worth the effort?
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Rockwerx
aaronesq said:
I've got a 1 watt on the 1st EGT & 1/2 watt on the next two.
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What do you mean? The watt rating on a resistor is how much power it will take before it burns up. The more importand thing to know is the impedance of the resistors in your setup...or the ohm rating of the resistors. Which resistors are in your setup?
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aaronesq
Rockwerx said:
What do you mean? The watt rating on a resistor is how much power it will take before it burns up. The more importand thing to know is the impedance of the resistors in your setup...or the ohm rating of the resistors. Which resistors are in your setup?
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1k (1 watt) & 2 680s (1/2 watt) - I just went for the highest watt rating I could find for each type of resistor - figured it couldn't hurt (but probably overkill).

more reading:

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/6...ussion/45236-h-s-fooler-box-4.html#post443644
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Rockwerx
aaronesq said:
1k (1 watt) & 2 680s (1/2 watt) - I just went for the highest watt rating I could find for each type of resistor - figured it couldn't hurt (but probably overkill).

more reading:

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/6...ussion/45236-h-s-fooler-box-4.html#post443644
Click to expand...

Ahh, That explains it! Thank you for the info! Over kill is okay...almost expected here actually! :thumbsup

I am going to try some experiments now that I have a new exhaust system on my truck to see which setup works best. :peelout
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S
1/2 watt in the plastic housing.

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S
anyone know where i can find/get these connectors without disassembling the EGT probe?
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dodgecwbymt1973
so what is this little trick going to accomplish?
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S
dodgecwbymt1973 said:
so what is this little trick going to accomplish?
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Homebrew EGT foolers / sims.
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M
cant you just fool the first egt to 12-1400 degrees and leave the others alone so ecm wont go regen?
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M
isnt this the main idea--to fool 1 st egt probe that exhaust is hot enough to burn soot effectivly-----that will prevent regen-----or is this not the main concern?---wont a programmer usually run hotter exh temps and stop or slow regens? i want to run edge for mpg and performance difference---
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S
As I understand it the deal with the EGT sims is to fool the ECM into seeing that the exhaust is too hot for a safe regen, I believe that fooling the ECM into believing that effective passive regen parameters are being met requires a box something like the Bay Area Gen2 box.

I haven't tried just one sim on the front EGT probe, living and commuting in the busier part of California I cant risk a regen cycle starting due to my experimenting.
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Rockwerx
^You have to fool the ECM in some way shape or fashion or it will still go into regen mode. Try this mod...it works!
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M
are you saying fool the 1st egt ? if so, what ohm resistor did you use
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DODGEBRAFFER2007
I am pretty sure I understand the setup! but just want to double check before i go do this. you guys said you put a 1K ohm resistor on first pyro plug, then a 680 ohm on the next two? then you weld in two o2 sensor bungs in new pipe in roughly same location as stock? do you unplug pressure sensor hoses and leave it plugged in electrically? Thanks guys just trying to specify
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aaronesq
DODGEBRAFFER2007 said:
I am pretty sure I understand the setup! but just want to double check before i go do this. you guys said you put a 1K ohm resistor on first pyro plug, then a 680 ohm on the next two? Yes that is correct. then you weld in two o2 sensor bungs in new pipe in roughly same location as stock? Correct again! And if you're going to a 5" system don't put your O2 sensors right on the top - it can create clearance issues - needless to say to say, test fit everything :thumbsup do you unplug pressure sensor hoses and leave it plugged in electrically? Initialy I pulled off the metal pressure sensor tubes from the rubber hoses and left them to the open. But I was getting the overhead dinging at me saying service was required every 10min (not a real problem - but annoying). Another member suggested unplugging the box.....and so far it's worked - no dinging and no ill effects. Thanks guys just trying to specify
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So good luck man and let us know how it works!
BTW - are you doing a full EGR/Cooler delete also?
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M
check dpf ideas thread----what do you think of this??
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