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· Registered
475 Posts
OK guys i just got done blocking the EGR completely off, and my DPF delete....
total cost;
DPF delete $55.00
EGR block $11.00
1/4" plate for an exhaust mount $20.00
4" O.D x 4' long pipe $30.00
Resistors to use as foolers $0.99
O2 sensor bung $4.00

The following 3 pic are of egt fooler resistors. When you buy your resistors make sure theres no (k) next to the number because the k stands for thousand ohms and your truck will run fine for a while then you will get a P1451 code.

Step by step DPF delete:
1. remove the 3 egt probes from truck, cut off probe electrical end, disassemble connector, remove pins and solder a resistor in between pins, install pins back into connector, use either heat shrink or electrical tape to cover open end of the connector. Plug foolers back into truck.

2. obtain a flange and piece of straight pipe, obtain an O2 bung and drill a hole in straight pipe and weld in bung(try to keep O2 sensor in same location). Weld straight pipe to flange and bolt them up to the down pipe.

Step by step EGR block off:
1. Unplug egr valve and remove it. Remove egr tube. Obtain 16gage plate. Place egr valve on steel plate and trace out area to make block off plates. Once plates are made install them in between egr valve and intake horn. Obtain freeze plugs (dorman p/n-555-020) from local auto parts store, install plug into tube closest to exhaust gas cooler. Install egr valve and tube back onto truck.

since the beginning of this post i have also done the cooler delete and 5" TBE. the cooler is the same as the egr valve just remove the cooler and obtain some 1/4 inch steel plate and trace out some block off plates, and keep the cooler motor electrically plugged in and tie it up somewhere out of the way.

so far with all the deletes and the 5"TBE I have spent no more than $380.00

good luck to all of you. slagburn will add in some pics later and his thoughts as well.

· Registered
2,565 Posts
Good write up Matt :thumbsup:

Here is some quick static from me - I'll keeping adding stuff as I have time.

First off... RESULTS WILL VARY BY ECM FLASH Cummins 1ton is on AX and I'm on AG both 07.5 trucks.

To keep the factory muffler and tailpipe you'll need about 4'8" of 4" exhaust pipe.

Parts sources...

4" (and 5") exhaust pipe can be found online here (for a price) Aluminized Steel Tubing 4" OD X 60"

Shibby Engineering (Forum Member Shibbyutman) has 4" exhaust flanges that will work with th above pipe.

EGT plugs are part number 5013959AA and can be purchased for $9 and some change (plus shipping) from some the online MOPAR parts sites, also check with your favorite forum vendor, many are offering EGT Sims already made at a good price.

02 Sensor bungs can usually be found at exhaust shops, I believe they are 18x1.5mm.

The above mentioned resistors (330ohm) can be purchased from Radio Shack and other electronics stores however you might have to buy the $6 grab bag of resistors to get them if they don't have them in the 5 packs.

Things that you will need to figure out -

Some type of hanger system between the factory mounts and the delete pipe.

A bolt (or plug) to plug the EGT sensor hole left over in the downpipe - the thread pitch is 12x1.25mm

This is what the exhaust system looks like from the turbo to muffler with all of the sensors labeled.

This is what our DIY DPF delete should look like (minus the bad paint job)

Here are the stock components as they are installed on the truck. (QCSB)

Downpipe to CAT.


DPF to Muffler.

DPF Pressure Tubes Pic 1

DPF Pressure Tubes Pic 2

Electrical Connections
EGT#1 and O2#1




· Registered
2,565 Posts

There are many different ways of making these, the general idea is to get a 330ohm resistor across the pins of the EGT sensor plug that goes toward the factory harness.

This is a factory EGT probe and connector

This is the ~$9 connector kit that can be purchased.

This is one of the many flavors of EGT sim

It can also be done like this.

When installed on the truck they look like this.

Here is a thread on disassembling the factory sensor connectors for those who want to go that route.

3 1/2 watt 330 ohm resistors are required for this, resistor tolerance (gold band) is unimportant in my opinion however the first 3 colors must match the picture below and must be in the same order

This value of resistor will show somewhere between 1220 - 1240 degrees of EGT to the ECM.

With a MSD Dashhawk or Edge Insight type monitor the EGT values should read ~1220 degrees with the EGT sims working correctly.


· Registered
2,565 Posts
DPF Pressure Sensor

This is where things get froggy and one has to experiment to figure out what works for their truck.

Generally when using a code clearing device such as the Edge J/A or PMT the pressure sensor should be left electrically connected but with the hoses removed like this.

This is how I run with the old AG flash on my 07.5, I've run hundreds of mils without clearing codes and I've never seen a CAT FULL message or gone into derate mode.

Resist the temptation to connect the ports together as it can cause problems, if dirt is a concern hoses can routed up with little filters installed on the ends.

The 2nd way to do this is to unplug the sensor electrically (if you do this it really doesn't matter what you do with the physical ports) cover both connections with something to keep the elements out.

The downside to doing this is that it creates a 'hard code' that cannot be cleared with any of the usual code clearing mechanisms. It has been suggested that this might eliminate the CAT FULL messages and dinging on later flashes but will leave a constant CEL, I don't believe this will cause a derate.

Now for the DPF pressure fooler - this has allowed for 'code free' DPF delete operation on some trucks that do not have the EGR deleted, this has also eliminated the overhead CAT FULL messages and constant dinging on some trucks but the success of this mod seems to be related to which version of flash one has.

Parts required -

qty 1 390 ohm resistor 1/2 watt
qty 1 110 ohm resistor 1/2 watt

These can usually be found at Radio Shack but you might have to get the $6 grab bag of resistors to find them; if you got the grab bag for the EGT sim resistors then these values are probably in the bag.

Resistor color codes -

(The first 3 bands are most important and must match the pictures below) some have said that a 100 ohm will work in place of the 110.

Wiring -

Viewed as the plug is facing you while looking up at it.

One must be creative when wiring this in, several folks on here are trying to source the connectors so that this can be done the correct way.

· Registered
2,565 Posts

Here is a summary of codes that I've seen with my DIY DPF delete - to the best of my knowledge these are harmless and they are all capable of being cleared with a code clearing box.


These are sporadic, I'm certain that my connections are good and thus far the only thing I've come up with is that my ECM gets cranky when it see fixed EGT values that don't change with engine warm up. I've datalogged the EGT sensors when these codes occur and haven't seen anything that points to faulty connections as the culprit.


Both of these are regular codes for me, I assume they are because the DPF pressure sensor never changes since the ports aren't connected. I am NOT running a DPF pressure fooler (yet) so I don't know if using one would eliminate these codes.


This code only came up when the DPF pressure sensor was electrically disconnected, it could not be cleared with a code clearing box and did not appear to derate the engine in anyway.

The following are bad codes and mean that an engine derate has occurred as a result of something not working correctly with the delete system.


Generally these codes cannot be cleared with a standard scan tool, in some cases reinstallation of the DPF system and a long highway drive (enough distance for a successful regen to be performed) have cleared these codes and underated the engine.

· Retired Old Fart!
10,464 Posts
I've been asked several times how to make a Pressure SIM.

Here is the DIY pressure Sim I built.
1 110 ohm resistor
1-390 ohm resistor
3- Ford male pins
1/4" shrink tubing
Soldering equipment
Heat gun
Electrical tape

I would have used 1/2 watt resistors for both. However Fry's only had 1/4 watt 110 ohm at the time. Either will work fine.

Here's the pins & resistors. Note I've twisted the center connection of the resistors together.

The assembly soldered together. I crimped the terminals onto the leads and then soldered.

Shrink tubing added

Taped up the exposed resistors & marked Pin 1.
I did have to file the pins just a wee bit to allow them to fit into the PS connector.

How the unit looks plugged in. I later taped up the whole assembly.

I hope this helps out those that have been asking how to make a Pressure Sim.

· Registered
3 Posts
I know old thread but has anyone done this on a 4th gen 2500 with success and no long term detrimental cel or anything else failing? I’m looking to delete but want no power upgrades(spare me the ridicule).
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