[theautodentist355]

I have a 1998 24v 3500 ram truck, automatic, dually. My problem is basically that I sent out my ecm to get replaced and got back a spray-painted job on my old ecm and no refund. Buyer beware of Auto computer exchange in Davie, Florida. But that's a story for another time. My problem is: no ecm core. What are my options to get this truck running without this ecm. Been hearing about p7100 conversions and going back to the old 12v. Looking for any advice about what to do and I know just getting another ecm would be the easiest but I just don't trust anyone with getting another ecm. Thanks

 

[bigfish95971]

Why don't you have a core if they sent it back to you? Contact ACS here, many have had good service from them. Also you can look for a sued one, off any 98.5 or 99, PN ends in ....336. See Ebay, Google, Car-parts.com for used at junk yards, even Facebook or Craig's list.
How did you determine yours was bad, codes, shop, symptoms?

the PN is
3942336

Ther are several on Google, often in Images, from $600 plus $200 core to 1500. Anything under 600 exchange is a good deal these days, $1000 is average.

 

[theautodentist355]

Ok, the deal is I sent my ecm off to Davie, Florida: Auto Computer Exchange. Based on the rating that I saw which was 100%. I thought how I could go wrong, right. Should have checked the BBB. So, anyway I had a good wait to start and aux pump. They told me it couldn't be rebuilt and convinced me to buy one of theirs. What I got back was my own computer with a new paint job and no wait to start and no aux pump. So, I sent it back twice and to no avail. So, I called my bank, and it took 3 months to get my money back and I like a fool sent them the computer back even though I knew it was mine from the beginning. So, you can understand my trusting anyone with selling or repairing an ecm. I just want to know my options. I mean the reality of it is that if I was going to that again I'm going there, and they would have to prove it works. As far as your next question, systems were a no start condition or if it did start stumbly fuel like it was about to cut out. I work in the automotive field doing heavy collision and paint but everyone else is a mechanic and diesel mechanic. They were the ones who told me it was the computer. Funny, I normally wouldn't own a truck like this, but everyone told me it was indestructible. Not if everything realizes on that ecm. I think the truck everyone means is the 12v. with no ecm. Anyway, thanks for listening and if you have any suggestions what to do. Thank, Mike

 

[bigfish95971]

You have not said what was wrong with the ECM in the first place. But it is too late to worry about now. You still need one, Did you pull codes before removal of original?

 

[theautodentist355]

I was going on the advice a diesel mechanic that told me that no start condition was do the ecm. I never had any codes or check engine light. no warning at all. I guess at this point I still would have to get another ecm just for the wait to start and aux. pump to work even if I switched to a P7100. Is that correct?

 

[bigfish95971]

As far as I am concerned, conversion is not necessary. Just fix it right. No WTS light and power to systems is bad ECM.

 

[theautodentist355]

My point was that even if I got another ecm, chances are I'll get ripped by another rebuilder. And I just can't take that chance. I'll sell it off for parts and that is a shame because it is beautiful truck that doesn't run.

 

[theautodentist355]

The original ecm had a good wait to start and aux pump. What they sent back was my own computer without any of that working. Was better off not dealing with AUTO COMPUTER EXCHANGE

 

[bigfish95971]

I do not know how that happened, or their reputation. They may very well be crooks, that does not mean most others are.

What I do not understand I why you seem to have sent off a working ECM?
Also that is why credit cards have fraud protection. You do have choices. There is several other on line companies including ACS a vendor here that many have had very good results. Call them. You have parts stores. You also have used.
How is a conversion, $2-3000 I think?
Where are you? zip code?

 

[theautodentist355]

Found a ecm core online for $230 and the shipping from Canada is about $100. Truck runs intermittingly. So, I will see how that works out. But if it does to be fixed, I'm going there all these rebuilders seem to be in or around the Fort Lauderdale, Florida. I'm in the Tampa area and I'm only 3hrs. away.

 

[bigfish95971]

I saw some for sale that only had $200 core. What did ACS have available? Did you ever call them?

 

[theautodentist355]

ok, I'm back I got a core out of Alberta, Canada, but of course my batteries are dead after sitting 4 months. So, I'm charging them as we speak. Let you know tomorrow, if it starts it's a core but it runs intermittently. But what I can't understand is that you are telling me that if I have a good wait to start and good lift pump, it's a good computer. I can't believe that because there has to be a good signal to the injection pump. Or it will not start. Anyway, not impressed by the 24v 1998.5 5.9l diesel at all, owned it for a year and half and only got less than 1000 miles out of it. Seems to me that the 12v no computer injection is the way better engine. And they are the ones I see all over. So again, I ask what is involved in the p-7100 conversion?

 

[jross036]

98.5-02 24V P-Pump Conversion

Discussion of converting 24V trucks from the VP44 stock pump to a P-Pump powered 24V No Advertising ...NO ADVERTISING

www.cumminsforum.com

 

[bigfish95971]

You say it is a "core" out of Canada. Is it supposed to be working, unknown condition, or known bad and needs rebuild?

You are fight working WTS light usually is good ECM, but not 100% But NO WTS light is pretty much a bad ECM.

Does tach move to about 200 rpm when cranking?

Have you tried bleeding injectors at all?

Do you have any other details about how, when, and why it iwas no start? Prior issues, prior work recently etc? I am not convinced it was the ECM but that became partly moot when you lost it.

 

[theautodentist355]

Originally, my ecm had a good wait to start and a good at least 10 second lift pump prime. But what people were saying there was no signal to the injection pump. As far as the core out of Canada, they told me that the truck ran intermittently. So, they sold me the ecm as a core for $220. I put it in yesterday, but my batteries were pretty much dead from sitting so long. So, I will know today after I get to work and put the batteries back in. As far as the tach is concerned, I never noticed if it was even moving. I mean when it ran it just fired up fast. No i have not bled the injectors. But I have been reading the Haines Manuel on the ecm schematics and not much to it really. funny, though I never really thought it was the ecm to begin with. The original problem was it was stuck on high idle, then I cleaned the connecting plug and ran like a dream for a month. then I fooled with the plug some more and it would start and run, but I could tell it was declining condition. That is when people were telling me it was the ecm going bad. But seems to me that computers either work or they don't.

 

[bigfish95971]

OK so lets get the ecm on and try firing it up with GOOD batteries.
Then we can start over with diagnosis.
Then do these things:

Try starting it.
Recheck all ECM and VP plug pins for corrosion.
Check WTS light,
Check for tach movement,
Check fuel pressure and run time on starter bump,
Pull codes with s scan tool.
I am not working tomorrow so will be here most of the time.

Does ECM have Part number I sent you? Have you done anything with the VP44 or any fuel lines at all?

 

[theautodentist355]

Ok, ecm and vp pins are clean. The wts shuts off after 10 to 15 seconds, which btw is about half the time my orignal ecm did. The lift pump time is about a second. The original was about 10 seconds. The vp unit is pretty much new and I have not looked at the lines yet. Sounds to me that this ecm has to be checked and probably rebuilt. So, what do you think?

 

[bigfish95971]

WTS light time could be 1 second for warmed up or over 60* outside It would be 10 seconds to over a minute depending on temp outside in block. Lift pump should only run 1-3 seconds with key to ON, but it should run for 25 seconds when you bump and release the starter and leave key on/ or not maybe.

After checking lift pump run again, Crack the inectors 1, 3, and 4 and have somebody crank in it for a bit like bleeding after installation of VP and see if you get any spray, dribble or what? Check all fuses related to fuel etc.

 

[theautodentist355]

I'm going to start checking everything that is fuel related. You know it's really amazing how much I don't know about diesel engines. I have been in the automotive field for over 40 years, Heavy collision, paint, gasoline engines of all sizes. I'll check out everything tomorrow. Thanks again, Mike

 

[bigfish95971]

Talk tomorrow evening.