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Nope, no way I would spend more than 30 on a egr delete kit just to have someone’s brand name stuck on it. SAF.

I got a cheapie and it works just fine it’s all the same crap. I do plan on deleting the coolant riser and just plugging the block just to clean things up. but that’s for a later time when I’m board, or the next time I need to drain the coolant for some other reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I had a tough time justifying the cost for the $200 Sinister kit over the $30-60 ebay kits. I went ahead and got the $30 kit. Hey, the worst that can happen is a leak, and I'm out just $30 instead of $200+.

I'm excited to get my truck back up and running. It's been sitting for some time now. The DPF delete pipe and tuner will both be here in a few weeks. Been taking my time, but I'm learning quite a bit along the way.
 

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Excellent! learning is good :)

If it’s gonna leak it’s because of the metal layered gaskets, not cheap the kit. There’s nothing special to it so the sinister kit is grossly overpriced.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I agree. Sinister sells a $100 throttle valve delete which is expensive considering it for what it is. Tomorrow I am going to do my own throttle valve delete by simply removing the butterfly valve in the intake. I understand it is secured by two screws on both sides of the valve. Should take me about an hour to do tomorrow. I figure removing the butterfly valve myself is the route to go, since it essentially does the same thing as Sinister's tv delete.
 

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I agree. Sinister sells a $100 throttle valve delete which is expensive considering it for what it is. Tomorrow I am going to do my own throttle valve delete by simply removing the butterfly valve in the intake. I understand it is secured by two screws on both sides of the valve. Should take me about an hour to do tomorrow. I figure removing the butterfly valve myself is the route to go, since it essentially does the same thing as Sinister's tv delete.


Honestly don’t even remove it, it’s not worth it imo. It’s charged air at that point the TV in place sprung open and disabled it’s not going to close on you and it’s not hurting flow.

I’ll get a new intake horn that delete the egr valve and tv in one price before I bother putting the tv on delete back on. I know there dumb too but they look so much cleaner. Right now my stock tv is in place disabled.
 

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I got a $50 kit off amazon, had everything I needed. Works great.
 

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having seen both the expensive name brand kits and the cheapies off fleabay, the only differences are the engraved name, the color, and maybe the quality of the hose and clamps. that said, my $30 fleabay "black cloud diesel" kit worked perfectly fine. in fact, the cooler delete part of it (the hose) is still working perfectly fine. it had a bit of a coolant weep when i first installed it - they are cheap worm-drive clamps after all - but an extra turn on the screw and the leak stopped. been on there about 3 years or so now. about two years ago i hacked the hose in half and installed a T-fitting from the blue big-box home improvement store as a return for the coolant filter setup i installed after the pump crapped the bed on me. used more cheap hardware store worm-drive clamps and they're holding up just fine as well...

my two cents, save money on the stuff that doesn't really matter and spend it on stuff that does.
 

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Honestly don’t even remove it, it’s not worth it imo. It’s charged air at that point the TV in place sprung open and disabled it’s not going to close on you and it’s not hurting flow.

I’ll get a new intake horn that delete the egr valve and tv in one price before I bother putting the tv on delete back on. I know there dumb too but they look so much cleaner. Right now my stock tv is in place disabled.
They have been known to close. Intermittent loss of power and black smoke on hard throttle. This was the culprit for many. Removing the butterfly was the answer. Just a FYI.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I agree with the sentiment of spend where it is important, and go frugal where it isn't. I'm spending big $$$ on the tuner, but on the EGR, the $30 kit will do just fine.

Instead of getting the $160 DPF pipe from Diesel Truck Products, I went with the same thing from Ebay for $84

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DPF-DELETE-PIPE-07-11-Dodge-Diesel-Ram-Cummins-6-7-6-7L-2500-3500-4500-4-0-4inch/182609774963?hash=item2a84640973:g:bPQAAOSw~FJZNwAA:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!98682!US!-1

It's just a pipe after all. I'm putting down $3k on a Carli level kit in July, another $800 to have it installed, and another $2k for 295/65/R20 Toyos this summer. So, got to save $$$ where I can. The EGR delete kit and the DPF pipe seemed like the most logical choices to go frugal on.
 

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Regardless of where you buy the pipe, check the weld on the flange. My weld was pretty weak and eventually cracked so I had to have it re-welded. The exhaust shop guy did a heck of a weld on it, doubt it will crack again. I have read a few other cases of this as well. Might be worth taking it to a shop and spiting the guy a $20 to button up the cheap welds.


My flapper is so dam hard to close I can see it closing from air pressure, but it seems people do have issues with it... so I guess it might be worth deleting.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the tip to check the welds. I have a friend who runs his own welding shop so that isn't a problem for me.

I didn't get around to the tv delete today cause of mother's day. I'll do that at some point this week. Both the EGR/DPF deletes arrive on Friday. So, this weekend, I'll finally be able to finish up the physical work on the truck, and then do the oil change before I get it tuned on the weekend of the 25th of May.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well I started on the TV delete today. I had some difficulty getting the elbow off the TV valve body, so I tried taking the whole horn off by removing the five 10mm bolts. Even without the bolts in, I could not get the horn off the engine. Tried a crowbar, screwdriver, everything. The horn would just not budge.

So, I put the bolts back on. Tomorrow or another day, I'll try getting the elbow off the TV valve body, and then taking the TV off once I get the elbow off.
 

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Well I started on the TV delete today. I had some difficulty getting the elbow off the TV valve body, so I tried taking the whole horn off by removing the five 10mm bolts. Even without the bolts in, I could not get the horn off the engine. Tried a crowbar, screwdriver, everything. The horn would just not budge.



So, I put the bolts back on. Tomorrow or another day, I'll try getting the elbow off the TV valve body, and then taking the TV off once I get the elbow off.


Yea I had to pull my horn off as well when I first pulled the tv. Use some light oil on the boot if it’s stuck it should break free. Then use the horn as leverage to break it free from the gasket. THIS WILL DESTROY THE GASKET. Likely the TV gasket too when you separate that. So have new ones on hand. It’s also a pita to scrape the old gasket from the intake plenum. I used a scraper and shop vac.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have the the air horn gasket from the EGR cleaning kit, so that's all taken care of. I'll get the $3 TV gasket from Genos if I end up destroying that gasket.

I didn't mind bolting everything back up today, as I have the next few weeks to get it all hammered out. A problem for another day, is how I wrapped it all up today.

I'll hit the bolt holes / seam on the engine side of the air horn with some liquid wrench tomorrow and have another go at taking it all off. What a PITA. I'm almost thinking about not doing the TV delete until I get a new air horn sometime this summer/fall. That might be the route I take. If I go down that route, should I unplug the plastic connector on the side of the air horn to stop the butterfly valve from closing, or does unplugging the EGR valve take care of that?
 

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I did the the tv delete, then ended up putting it back to stock (for other reasons). Now that I’m deleted again I too didn’t bother with the tv delete, I didn’t want to mess with it. I will just get a horn down the road and do it that way as well. 130$ pusher horn, simple, clean, cheap!
 

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I'll hit the bolt holes / seam on the engine side of the air horn with some liquid wrench tomorrow and have another go at taking it all off. What a PITA. I'm almost thinking about not doing the TV delete until I get a new air horn sometime this summer/fall. That might be the route I take. If I go down that route, should I unplug the plastic connector on the side of the air horn to stop the butterfly valve from closing, or does unplugging the EGR valve take care of that?

Sorry I missed that part the first time..

If you leave the TV in place, all you do is unplug it, the tuner will take care of it and unplugged it cant close so it just sits open all the time. You can open the little grey case and remove a gear, or pull out the flapper but that’s really for older delete options that needed the tv left plugged in, so it was a way of letting the tv electronics (or the computer thinking it was working) work but never actually close the flapper. The tune will make the computer not care.

Of course there is the theory (fact? Idk) that it can close from air pressure under certain high boost conditions causing a brief loss of power. Like I said before I don’t see how myself, my TV was really firm to close with my finger. But I’m also not making much over stock power. I have not had any loss of power and I have done some pretty good runs towing with it for long drives.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
No problem! Under what conditions does the valve close? Kinda hope it is open now cause I'm putting the EGR delete kit and the DPF pipe on this Friday.

At that point, is it alright to start the engine, without the tuner? Reason why I ask is because it has been sitting for a while now, and I need to get the batteries all charged up. I won't be ordering the tuner from PPEI until next Friday. Ugh.

I'm with you on the $130 horn. The one I am planning to get in the summer is this one, or one like it:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-Raw-Performance-SS-Intake-Manifold-Fits-Dodge-6-7L-Cummins-Diesel-07-18/283167069063?_trkparms=aid=777001&algo=DISCO.FEED&ao=1&asc=20160801204525&meid=a7902d6ebeb84784ab1c36ef0c3c2c5d&pid=100651&rk=1&rkt=1&&itm=283167069063&_trksid=p2481888.c100651.m4497&_trkparms=pageci:b0316e1c-76ad-11e9-9774-74dbd180919b|parentrq:b906e09d16a0a9cb1fac590effd11a52|iid:2
 
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