Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm new to owning a road going diesel so excuse me if this is a dumb question. I've owned several diesel tractors (including the current Kubota SU3300) but none of them had the EPA garbage on them. I know doing a delete would take care of this "problem" but when I bought the 2012 2500 Laramie CC last week, they offered the extended warranty to me which takes it bumper to bumper for 100,000/6 years, so I did it. I don't want to do anything to loose that. My thinking is that since diesels produce lots more carbon/soot when working hard, being easy on the throttle when taking off from standstill or speeding up to a higher cruising speed will not only save some fuel but will produce less carbon the DPF will have to catch. This should require less regen which in turn will also cause less fuel to be burned. Am I missing anything?

I also have an unrelated question. Anyone know if the grill from a 2013 will fit the 2012? I really like the look of the mesh inserts on some of the 2013.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
I'm new to owning a road going diesel so excuse me if this is a dumb question. I've owned several diesel tractors (including the current Kubota SU3300) but none of them had the EPA garbage on them. I know doing a delete would take care of this "problem" but when I bought the 2012 2500 Laramie CC last week, they offered the extended warranty to me which takes it bumper to bumper for 100,000/6 years, so I did it. I don't want to do anything to loose that. My thinking is that since diesels produce lots more carbon/soot when working hard, being easy on the throttle when taking off from standstill or speeding up to a higher cruising speed will not only save some fuel but will produce less carbon the DPF will have to catch. This should require less regen which in turn will also cause less fuel to be burned. Am I missing anything?

I also have an unrelated question. Anyone know if the grill from a 2013 will fit the 2012? I really like the look of the mesh inserts on some of the 2013.
I am also new to the segment but I was told exactly opposite. I was told that you should "work it hard" to heat up and burn it out. The salesman told me that the biggest problem / complaints they have is with farmers who use their trucks with a slow, low idle in the field and that if you DRIVE the truck and work it - the system will purge correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I understand that you have to "work it" to make it clean when needed and from what I`ve read, highway driving at 55 mph+ for at least 30 to 45 minutes will do that. I'm talking about ways to produce less carbon to begin with.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
"Work it" and "Stand on it like an idiot" are not even close to the same thing! "Work it" means sustained high power operation - on the road, at a decent speed, with a good load, for instance - to get EGTs up, and burn things clear. Stomping it makes it go rich, *LOWERS* EGT, and produces more soot. This is because a diesel can only accellerate by adding more fuel - and until the turbo spools, and the airflow catches up, all you are doing is going rich and making soot - not good at all, and certainly not a good way to minimize soot buildup, or maximize fuel mileage. A soft foot, and some good loaded runs at speed is the ticket to keep it happy.

- Tim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry, I used the wrong term in my original post when I said "working hard". Like Tim said, I was referring to what used to be called "jack rabbit starts". In other words, hard acceleration from a standstill or when trying to gain speed with no load. I hear people complain constantly about high fuel prices and the poor economy of their vehicles yet they never think twice about driving like they are in a drag race. IMO, that type of driving will also add more soot to the DPF. That was the point I was really trying to verify/get across.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
492 Posts
"Work it" and "Stand on it like an idiot" are not even close to the same thing! "Work it" means sustained high power operation - on the road, at a decent speed, with a good load, for instance - to get EGTs up, and burn things clear. Stomping it makes it go rich, *LOWERS* EGT, and produces more soot. This is because a diesel can only accellerate by adding more fuel - and until the turbo spools, and the airflow catches up, all you are doing is going rich and making soot - not good at all, and certainly not a good way to minimize soot buildup, or maximize fuel mileage. A soft foot, and some good loaded runs at speed is the ticket to keep it happy.

- Tim
The richer the air/fuel mixture on a diesel the higher the EGT, opposite of a gasser.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
Not possible - going rich means a lack of air, incomplete combustion, and soot (a byproduct of incomplete/cold combustion). Just because it's a diesel doesn't change the fundamental combustion chemistry and thermodynamics.

And while high power mixtures my go a tad rich, this will only occur in steady state - not sudden mashes to the floor.

- Tim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
513 Posts
I'm new to owning a road going diesel so excuse me if this is a dumb question. I've owned several diesel tractors (including the current Kubota SU3300) but none of them had the EPA garbage on them. I know doing a delete would take care of this "problem" but when I bought the 2012 2500 Laramie CC last week, they offered the extended warranty to me which takes it bumper to bumper for 100,000/6 years, so I did it. I don't want to do anything to loose that. My thinking is that since diesels produce lots more carbon/soot when working hard, being easy on the throttle when taking off from standstill or speeding up to a higher cruising speed will not only save some fuel but will produce less carbon the DPF will have to catch. This should require less regen which in turn will also cause less fuel to be burned. Am I missing anything?

I also have an unrelated question. Anyone know if the grill from a 2013 will fit the 2012? I really like the look of the mesh inserts on some of the 2013.

FYI, you can cancel that extended warranty at any time and get your money back.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,497 Posts
I also have an unrelated question. Anyone know if the grill from a 2013 will fit the 2012? I really like the look of the mesh inserts on some of the 2013.
Yes -- There is no proper part cross reference, but the 2013 honeycomb grille will work on the 2010-2012. Pricey tho...

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
2019 3500 CTD CC LB 2wd
Joined
·
682 Posts
Just do an experiment. Run it like the you stole for one oil change, then run it like you think you should, slower and easier. See how long before your OLM tells you, you need an oil change. Not sure if it matters much but when we bought our Ram in July 2012 we did a lot of towing for camping. Did the 1st oil change at 3700 becuase I wanted to. OLM never came on. After camping season was over and since I'm retired my driving is 50/50 short hops and occasional 150 RT on freeway. OLM came on with only 2900 miles on the last oil change. My thinking is it's the constant driving for sustained periods that keeps the regens fewer and extends your oil change intervals.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
My experience is consistent with that - I drive a decent about of freeway, but a fair bit of local too. I never stomp unless avoiding an accident - no point I can see whatsoever - and my oil changes seem to be running around 5000 miles . . .

- Tim
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top