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I saw the parts and blueprints. They would probably work fine for a small truck that never towed anything but otherwise a waste of my money. And I won't spend anymore time arguing the point if you cannot see it's a bad idea then you deserve what you get...


Someone got their panties in a wad fast.



Who's arguing either? I'm simply asking a question and looking for first hand experience. If you have none, why even bother taking the energy to type?

Plus the dynatrac kit is only $100 more. I wouldn't call that penny pinching.
 

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Someone got their panties in a wad fast.

Who's arguing either? I'm simply asking a question and looking for first hand experience. If you have none, why even bother taking the energy to type?
There's a reason that Yukon, Dynatrac, and Spyntec are all go to for these trucks.
Not sure if your name/avatar is any hint to your career, but if so, run some load calculations. Approximate the CG location on the vehicle and distribute the load to each wheel based on that location. It shouldn't be to hard to approximate what the load is on each bearing in each hub. Compare that to the mfg's bearing load limit. Should give you some peace of mind or tell you if you'd be playing with fire with the kit.
 

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Dyna Trac Free spin. Note the location of the bearings in relation to the wheel. Running anything with a unit bearing is like running a wheel with no BS...
 

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The RamMan hubs are a joke @ best they still use a unit bearing and the spacing is too close together to last. One feature some overlook with the free spin hubs is the larger bearings that are spaced much farther apart to take much heavier loads. This is especially true if you plan on using larger snow or mud tires. Iyt's not the cheap route, but by far the best. Unless you want to upgrade to Rockwell axles.
Yup,eliminating the rotating mass and friction of the front drivetrain should yield some measurable improvement in mpg but it doesn't.
Serviceability,lighter steering, and once again shutting down all that rotating mass was my goal
 

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There's a reason that Yukon, Dynatrac, and Spyntec are all go to for these trucks.
Not sure if your name/avatar is any hint to your career, but if so, run some load calculations. Approximate the CG location on the vehicle and distribute the load to each wheel based on that location. It shouldn't be to hard to approximate what the load is on each bearing in each hub. Compare that to the mfg's bearing load limit. Should give you some peace of mind or tell you if you'd be playing with fire with the kit.


FWIW, I'm a Civil Engineer.

I'm not saying the Dynatrac, Yukon, or others are junk or not quality/desirable designs, quite the opposite in fact. I find them, specifically Dynatrac, as the gold standard, and probably the route I'll go if and when I decide to upgrade. I just found the TRM design to be interesting and a unique approach by mimicking the Ford design without some of the underlying failure issues.

But I see your point.


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Just finished up my Dynatrac hub kit and ball joints on Sunday.

With 5 days on the kit, I’ve noticed a few things.

1. Steering is shockingly lighter. I was expecting this to a degree, but I’m a tad surprised at how noticeable it is.

2. Driving vibration seems slightly less. I feel like I notice the tires more now.

3. Maybe a half gallon of fuel mileage increase.

As far as installation, it was pretty straight forward. I did all the work myself, with the occasional helping third hand from the wife so I could set the snap rings.

I found the directions to be a little excessive, or overly thorough perhaps. Really I just needed the visual figures in the back. Those to me were invaluable. But I’m a visual person.

I got the Dynaloc hubs with my kit btw. Now the directions to those were very visual and I certainly appreciated them. Although a color version would be nice.

A few tips with installation:

Get a bearing packer ($20). Makes the job super fast.

Get x2 (16oz) cans of grease. I used nearly all of one, so having a second on hand would be necessary if you have to redo something.

Have a partner ready to go when it’s time for the snap rings.

Make sure your 6 point spanner socket is deep enough. Mine bought from LPS barely fit to get 50 ft*lbs. on the first nut. No issues on the second nut.

Edit:

Get the 6 point spanner socket that Dynatrac recommends. The one I got from NAPA wasn’t deep enough and gave me false torque readings. I had to rebuild the driver side a few weeks later because of a loose spanner/axle nut.




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One word of caution. Make sure you clean all the old grease out first, and then pack the bearings and hub completely full so the grease doesn't get forced out of the bearings by centrifugal force. if you pack the hub full it will force "feed" the bearings as you drive...I had to replace one side bearings because I or/someone neglected to do this adequately.
 

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I know most of you have installed the dynatrac free spin kit yourself however I am a little limited on the necessary tools etc and would be interested to know if anyone is familiar with a shop in the Ventura County, CA area were I am currently that has experience with installation of these. I've seen that 4WheelParts does sell and install and there is a shop in the area I am in but figured I'd ask if anyone had first hand experience
 

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Yup,eliminating the rotating mass and friction of the front drivetrain should yield some measurable improvement in mpg but it doesn't.
Serviceability,lighter steering, and once again shutting down all that rotating mass was my goal
The biggest factor in mpg for our trucks is aero drag. It increases exponentially with speed.
 

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The biggest factor in mpg for our trucks is aero drag. It increases exponentially with speed.
Agree.My 35's push some air but the main drag for me is my camper. It pushes a fair amount of air even being a popup and weighs 2300# wet with the jacks. I immediately gain 3 mpg when I unload it. I'm going to return to 285-75-17's next time around.
 
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