[Bigtolya]

They said the only code was for the DPF.

Yeah, I know they say that. But there is no such code as “for the DPF”.

 

[Yakkety Yak]

Yeah, I know they say that. But there is no such code as “for the DPF”.

I don't have a code reader so all I can go by is what it says on the instermant pannel.

 

[dieselenthusiast]

@Yakkety Yak, how many miles were you driving in-between regens? Based on your reported driving habits, I would estimate that you should be able to drive 800 - 1,000 miles in-between regens.

 

[Bigtolya]

Just a helpful link. What Happens if Your Truck Can No Longer Regen?

Replacement of DPF would be the very last thing to do. They should’ve understood before a second replacement that problem is not in DPF by itself. I hate when service department just wasting resources and my time and money. Once the guy at Impact Fleet here in Cincinnati wanted to replace whole def system on one of my trucks because of tiny crack infiller neck.

I would definitely put factory filter back. That would be my starting line😁

please update what they find out. It could be helpful for some.

 

[Yakkety Yak]

@Yakkety Yak, how many miles were you driving in-between regens? Based on your reported driving habits, I would estimate that you should be able to drive 800 - 1,000 miles in-between regens.

Just before I took it in it was trying to re-gen every time I drove it.

 

[dieselenthusiast]

Just before I took it in it was trying to re-gen every time I drove it.

In a worst-case scenario, you have an engine related issue causing a rapid ash buildup in the system. Ash is the leftover matter that doesn't get removed from the DPF. In a proper running engine, ash buildup is so small that it may take 300,000+ miles before it ever becomes an issue. However, a poor functioning EGR, turbo seal failure, or poor engine combustion can cause rapid buildup of incombustible matter in the system.

In a best-case scenario, you could have a bad sensor module. I could be wrong, but I think the inlet sensor, outlet sensor, and EGT sensor all go into the same module on your Cummins. If the system isn't communicating properly, then you will have problems. It would be interesting to monitor your DPF temperatures to see if the system is getting hot enough to completely do the job.

Do you know if they installed new DPF sensors when they installed the replacement DPF?

Either way, keep us posted.

 

[BruceStarcrest]

How do you do that?

Just search “Cummins boost leak test” it’s pretty straight forward. Also look for exhaust leaks.

 

[Yakkety Yak]

Thank you for the information. I am a little lost on how an exhaust leak would cause the DPF to fill up with soot. Or are you saying the DPF is ok. But an exhaust leak is tricking the sensors into thinking the DPF is full?

 

[BruceStarcrest]

Thank you for the information. I am a little lost on how an exhaust leak would cause the DPF to fill up with soot. Or are you saying the DPF is ok. But an exhaust leak is tricking the sensors into thinking the DPF is full?

I know it seems weird I went through a probably 6 month period chasing down odd drivability and soot loading issues. The truck ran well but seemed to regenerate a lot more and got worse mileage then my fathers nearly identical truck. I thought screw it I’m delete it buying into the delete the world crowd. I delete the truck with a highly rated tuner, it runs great but is really smokey and the transmission tuning is weird… frustrated after the delete company won’t really help me anymore and say I’m driving weird. Pissed I undelete the truck running it stock for a while but it irritated me that I had installed a built valve body but wasn’t using the advantages anymore. I caught a calibrated power tuning sale and decided to go for it. Now all of this occurred in while I was living in a very flat part of the county. I would visit friends in the Rockies and began to notice weird drivability issue 100 mile regens terrible mpg and what I can only describe as surging in the mountains. I sent calibrated probably a dozen data logs finding nothing wrong with their tune or stock files they suggested I buy a boost tester and check my truck. I ended up finding two massive boost leaks, and several exhaust leaks at the egr cooler. I fixed all of leaks, my truck has never run better to the point I’d say with a great degree of certainly the boost leak at the air horn was a factory doink….

Kind of a long story to say check it it’s a real issue and caused me to burn thousands of dollars in delete parts collecting dust, replacement sensors that are probably good, and to almost trade in my truck for a 7.3 gas superduty and swear off diesel forever.

 

[Yakkety Yak]

I know it seems weird I went through a probably 6 month period chasing down odd drivability and soot loading issues. The truck ran well but seemed to regenerate a lot more and got worse mileage then my fathers nearly identical truck. I thought screw it I’m delete it buying into the delete the world crowd. I delete the truck with a highly rated tuner, it runs great but is really smokey and the transmission tuning is weird… frustrated after the delete company won’t really help me anymore and say I’m driving weird. Pissed I undelete the truck running it stock for a while but it irritated me that I had installed a built valve body but wasn’t using the advantages anymore. I caught a calibrated power tuning sale and decided to go for it. Now all of this occurred in while I was living in a very flat part of the county. I would visit friends in the Rockies and began to notice weird drivability issue 100 mile regens terrible mpg and what I can only describe as surging in the mountains. I sent calibrated probably a dozen data logs finding nothing wrong with their tune or stock files they suggested I buy a boost tester and check my truck. I ended up finding two massive boost leaks, and several exhaust leaks at the egr cooler. I fixed all of leaks, my truck has never run better to the point I’d say with a great degree of certainly the boost leak at the air horn was a factory doink….

Kind of a long story to say check it it’s a real issue and caused me to burn thousands of dollars in delete parts collecting dust, replacement sensors that are probably good, and to almost trade in my truck for a 7.3 gas superduty and swear off diesel forever.

Hum. I just watched a video on the boost leak test you mentioned. After I get the Truck back I am definately putting the factory air intake back on and checking for leaks. Thanks

 

[Bigtolya]

Thank you for the information. I am a little lost on how an exhaust leak would cause the DPF to fill up with soot. Or are you saying the DPF is ok. But an exhaust leak is tricking the sensors into thinking the DPF is full?

I’m not super tech in emission but guess gases escaping from leaking exhaust don’t let DPF reach optimal pressure and temp and air mix to properly regen so that it only clogs more and more. But with your truck being fairly new I think improper fuel-air mixture cause extra soot that DPF can’t handle. So it functions but can’t fully burn leftovers. DPF is asking for more temperature, increasing Rpms(burning more fuel)to desoot but getting only more incorrect fumes to burn. I bet it’s getting even worse with colder temperatures. Sensors could be another reason.

 

[BruceStarcrest]

I’m not super tech in emission but guess gases escaping from leaking exhaust don’t let DPF reach optimal pressure and temp and air mix to properly regen so that it only clogs more and more. But with your truck being fairly new I think improper fuel-air mixture cause extra soot that DPF can’t handle. So it functions but can’t fully burn leftovers. DPF is asking for more temperature, increasing Rpms to desoot but getting only more incorrect fumes to burn. I bet it’s getting even worse with colder temperatures. Sensors could be another reason.

That is the way I kind of wrapped my head around it. These trucks are super advanced and expect a certain amount of energy and AFR into the aftertreatment systems to perform correctly. When you have exhaust and boost leaks it throws everything out of sync.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

Sorry to tag onto this but it looks like a conversation associated to my problem?
So, regarding the thread and the DPF and dealers, I just had the actuator replaced by the dealer (extended factory warranty). After they installed it they called and said the DPF is full and will not regen they want 5K to replace the filter. I picked it up today and drove until the regen complete notice appeared. Can the malfunctioning actuator and limp mode cause the filter to fill up?

Absolutely that is likely the issue, the dealer likely tried a manual regen and it failed instead of trying to drive it

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

Hum. I just watched a video on the boost leak test you mentioned. After I get the Truck back I am definately putting the factory air intake back on and checking for leaks. Thanks

No need to put the factory air intake back on they are not an issue despite what the forums think

 

[Yakkety Yak]

Just got my truck back today. The DPF reads 0% and the new fuel pump sounds good. Will take it for a test drive tomorrow and see how it does.

I went back through my service records and the original DPF was replaced at 7,500 miles. This one was put in at 14,700 miles. By my calculations that's a new DPF every 7,500 miles. On the paper work for the first DPF replacement it showed that the tech. pulled a code for Turbo charger under boost. I don't know if that was a symptom of the DPF being full, or a cause?

 

[Murphjd25]

You ever notice any issues with your exhaust brake? A under post code could be a sign of something going on with the turbo or turbo actuator. Any of those not working correctly can also cause the fuel to not burn properly and plug up a DPF.

 

[Grit dog]

definitely sounds like a dealer issue. good luck.

Fixed it for you! Lol
You’re right. Because you couldn’t idle a 17k truck enough to “ruin” 2 dpfs and the odds are about the same as winning the lottery.
Find new dealer or start collecting the old dpfs. Good laying side job selling almost new dpfs, lol.

 

[elephantrider]

Fixed it for you! Lol

lol yup, thats the ultimate truth of the situation.

 

[Yakkety Yak]

Ok I have an update:

The dealership (AutoNation Colorado Springs Dodge) finished replacing the fuel pump (Recall Y78). The instrument panel says the DPF is at 0%. I spent some time Yesterday going through the work history (receipts). It looks like I have taken the truck in for manual regeneration about every 3,500 miles since I bought it. And the dealership has replaced the DPF every-other time (first time at 7,738 miles, and this time at 14,219 miles).

The first time they replaced the DPF the tech. noted that the Turbo was under boost. It doesn't say that they did anything to correct the it? It does say they replaced the DPF and re-flashed the computer. According to my receipts the dealership has re-programmed the computer 3 times (Recall VB6 @ 1,742 miles, Reprogramed at 7,738 miles when they replaced the DPF the first time, and Recall Z20 at 14,172 miles). Just to be safe I had the dealership replace the fuel filters at my cost each time they replaced the DPF.

I would really like to solve this problem once-and-for-all before we retire next year and start traveling with our 5th-wheel trailer.

 

[gsbrockman]

Doesn’t sound like much of an update, short of the fact that you’re reiterating all of the work that the dealership has done, which has not fixed your problem.

As others have mentioned before.....there’s an underlying issue causing this, and until your truck gets into the hands of someone that can actually diagnose it properly, as opposed to simply hanging parts and reflashing, you’re most likely gonna be in the same boat...over and over again.