I replaced the left side ball joints and axle joints about 7000 miles ago. I replaced the right side ball joints and tie rods ends last night when I put in the leveling kit. We checked the track bar bushings and everything else at the same time and aligned everything back up.I used to have this problem. I had it BAD though. Even a little bump would put me all across the roads at speeds less than 40mph. On the highway it could have been fatal.
Check tie rods first, no matter what. Next is ball joints, and the track bar. I replaced little things here and there then said screw it and replaced everything up front. Sure, it was costly but I haven't had the death wobble in over 25,000 miles.
We did all of that. My brother in law is a mechanic at a frame and alignment shop so we did it there. He has done quite a few of them and told me mine looked a lot closer in tolerance then some he has done. Didn't think I should have a problem.Just to double check get under the truck while a buddy turns the wheel side to side. Check for any play at all. My track bar will bend just a little bit, but not much. Just make sure everything seems nice and tight and hopefully you are good to go!
Yes,make sure you mention it to Jesse. He'll include a larger diameter billet clamp. Actually,a single Fox or Bilstein in the stock location has more dampening power. I already had the highmount and got the stocker free from my mechanic.Danderson Does the carli highmount steering damper work with the MOPAR 09 steering up-grade? Is that what you have?
i would max out the castor, makes a world of differance & it doesn`t have any affect on your alignment. BTW max positive castor is when you push the wheels as far foward as you can.
thats what i`m sayingso basically your saying adjust the cam bolt on the bottom control arms? to restore some caster