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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ive had alot of comments and requests of a step my step on how I did my intake, so here it is.
Basically I copied the Swanker, or the same on GDP sells.

I orderd a 3" exhaust U-bend from Summit
-PN SUM-622004 $24.95+$9.75 shipping. $34.70 total.

I had to buy a Lenox 3" Bi-Metal hole
-Lowes $19.00.

I had a piece of 3/8 plate steel from the scrap bin at work. But Lowes has them in a 6x10 i believe for like 20 bucks.

I also had a few other pieces of scrap steel that I used to make the flange for the accessory ports, and dipstick tube mounting bracket.

I also had a GDP grid delete that came in handy when making the flange.

Heres all of the parts.


The first thing I did was used my sawzall and a grinder to make the flange. I used my grid delete as a template. Used a sawzall to get the rough shape, then used a grinder and some files to finish it.


After getting the rough shape of the flange I used a digital micrometer ( $25) to get the overall measurements of the flange.



Next divide each of those measurements by 2 and find the center of the flange. Use a center punch to mark a dent to get started with the hole saw.

I cant stress enough how important it is to use ALOT of cutting fluid when cutting the hole in the flange. GO SLOW, and let the saw do the work. This took me about a half hour to cut the hole. I ran my drill fast, keep light pressure and KEEP IT WET!. Tapmagick cutting is an absolute must!



After cutting the hole the next step is to drill the mounting bolt holes. Again I used my grid delte for a template, but you can remove the factory intake horn and use that to mark your holes. Again use alot of cutting fluid and you will end up with nice clean holes.

I just dug through my drill bit box and found a bit that fit snug in the grid delte holes.



Next its time to begin cutting the tubing.
Pay close attention to the pics and use your factory intake as a guide.

First I cut the bend at the flange.


this is what you want to end up with.



Next I cut the end that goes to the intercooler boot.



The last piece is a 3" long piece of pipe from the straight end of the leftover pipe. That piece goes between the two bends.

By now you should have:
-1 complete flange
-2 cut bent pieces of pipe
-1 3" long piece of straight pipe.

Heres a prefab photo of all the pieces.


Next comes the time to mark the pieces for welding. The only piece that needs a bit of attention is the elbow that goes to the intercooler. It is canted to line up with the intercooler boot.

Heres how I did it.

-Mock up the pieces.
-Mark a line in the center of the middle piece of pipe, and the elbow that goes to the boot.
-On the center piece of pipe mark a line 1/2 inch on both side of the center line.
-On the elbow that goes to the boot mark 2 lines 1/2 inch apart towards the front of the pipe.

Should look like this:


Now, rotate the elbow so it lines up with the center pipe. This will give you the angle you want when you weld it up.
While your here you can go ahead and marks a sport for your dipstick tube mount.


I used a piece of 1/4 plate 1"x1" and drilled a 1/4 inch hole in it for my mount.

Heres a few more pics of the final mock-up before welding.



So, from this point on I really dont have any pics but its really self explanitory.

I welded all the pieces together with a MIG welder.

I welded a 4" long by 1" wide piece of steel to the back side of the flange for accessory ports. I used a piece of the same steel I made the flange out of.

I also made two 1"x1" tabs with 1/4" holes drilled in them. I welded 1 to the front for the dipstick mount. I welded the other to the back side for the wiring harness mount.

Once it was all welded up I used a grinder to grind all the welds flat.

Next I drilled 4 holes in that accessory port flange I mentioned earlier. I drilled 2 7/16 holes and tapped them with 1/4" NPT taps. I also drilled two 21/64 holes and tapped them with 1/8" NPT taps.

Once all that was done I used an epoxy mastic primer on the whole thing. The only reason I used this is because its high build and it was free at work, but you could use any automotive primer.


I coated the whole thing in Bondo. Once the bondo was dry I sanded it down until it looked nice enough.

Heres a few pics of it all primed up.
After grinding, bondo-ing, sanding, and drilling and tapping.




Thats about it.

I used Rustolem Hammerd Finish silver spray paint to finish it out. I dont like the way it looks, but thats personal preference.



Because of the design of the piece of pipe that goes to the flange you can not use the factory mounting bolts anymore. I had to buy a piece of all-thread to make studs to mount it. The thread pitch is M8x1.25. I cut four pieces 3 3/4" long and used nylon lock nuts ro mount it that way.

Upon installation I noticed a dramatic decrease in spool up time. Snappier throttle. Harder accelleration all through the powerband. And now the turbo really screams once I get over 2k rpms.

So far the only negative is the slight decrease in rollin coal.

If anyone has any questions Ill be happy to help.

Im no smart guy when it comes to metal work, if I can do it anyone can! This build took me about 5 hours total and well under a hundred bucks. I have some good friends with good tools that helped alot. But, the way I see it is, I think anyone considering shelling out big bucks for a name brand intake should at least give this a try.
 

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Wow looks great!
 

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Skrew- EPA CARB OPEC PETA
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Dang looks nice! Wanna make me one?
 

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Upon installation I noticed a dramatic increase in spool up time.
Is this right? An increase in spool up?

I would have thought decrease...

GREAT job on the write up!

Edit your post with a few shots of it installed!

Allot to be said for someone who can fabricate for himself, save a few bucks, have fun doing it and attempt to impart that ability on others. :thumbsup
 

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I am going to send you a pm. I don't need all the ports in mine but I would be willing to pay you to make me one. I could cut it all out but I can't weld.
 

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Dam man, clean install and that price is one you cant beat.
 

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thats cool, if my 12 valve didnt come with the CFM plus intake i would make one
 

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Nice lookin piece man!! Good Job! :thumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Oh yea, there was a big decrease in spool-up. BUT....I do not know if it was because of the heater grid delete or the intake or both because I installed both of them at the same time. I think it is because the turbo does not have to fight against the restriction caused by the fagtory intake and heater grid. But yes, there is an decrease in spool up time, there is an increase turbo sing, there is a noticeable increase in power and accelleration, and a significant DEcrease in black smoke which tells me that it is doing what its supposed to. I have not noticed any change in EGT's or MPG's, but I drive this thing like its a Vette sooo........

For those of you wanting me to make you one.........

C'mon guys....if you can color in the lines you can do this. If you dont have access to a welder, I'm sure your local exhaust shop will weld it for ya for next to nothin'.

If you really want one and cant do it, ill consider makin' em for ya, and we'll work on a case by case basis. I just dont want to end up like the last guy that started making these for people. ( see "Swanker Intake" )

So, go ahead and give 'er a shot, you might be surprised at what you can do if you try. If not PM me and I'll help as much as I can.

I'll post install pics tomorrow. I should have done that with the original post....my bad.:beer
 

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You mean it decreased spoolup time. Increasing spool up time is bad. Means more lag. Decreasing spoolup time is good. Means less lag. And that looks great. I've always wondered where these companies get off charging so much. One word of advice I have is run a bead on the bottom of the tube where the intercooler boot goes over it. That way when you have the clamp on the boot would have to slide through the clamp and over the bead to pop off.

And whatever did happen to the swanker intake?
 

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Oh yea, there was a big increase in spool-up. BUT....I do not know if it was because of the heater grid delete or the intake or both because I installed both of them at the same time. I think it is because the turbo does not have to fight against the restriction caused by the fagtory intake and heater grid. But yes, there is an increase in spool, there is an increase turbo sing, there is a noticeable increase in power and accelleration, and a significant DEcrease in black smoke which tells me that it is doing what its supposed to. I have not noticed any change in EGT's or MPG's, but I drive this thing like its a Vette sooo........
I think you are still missing me here.

In your writeup, You reference your "Increase" in Spoolup to "Time".

This would lead me to believe your turbo is less responsive to your modification.

If it spools faster, that would be a DECREASE in Spool time, wouldn't it?
 

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You mean it decreased spoolup time. Increasing spool up time is bad. Means more lag. Decreasing spoolup time is good. Means less lag. And that looks great. I've always wondered where these companies get off charging so much. One word of advice I have is run a bead on the bottom of the tube where the intercooler boot goes over it. That way when you have the clamp on the boot would have to slide through the clamp and over the bead to pop off.

And whatever did happen to the swanker intake?
Thanks, Blue, for a minute, I thought I drank too much... :rof :beer :wow::eek:hno:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Ok ok............my bad.

The turbo spools up much FASTER! I guess that would a DECREASE in spool time.

anyway....

I get a bit more boost in a shorter amount of time.

so.....

Oops.
 

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Ok ok............my bad.

The turbo spools up much FASTER! I guess that would a
No biggie.
Go back to your writeup and change increase to decrease.

All is well.

:beer
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
And yes..........if I ever do another one I will for sure do a bead around the bottom for the intercooler boot. I wish i would have done that on this one b4 i painted it. Oh well.


Ive hit 42lbs of boost with this guy in there and it hasnt let go yet, but to be safe, a bead is a good idea.:beer:beer
 

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You can put that bead on mine and I'll let ya know how it works. :lol
 

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FWIW, we bought an intake horn that an individual made that looks almost identical to the one here. On our gen2 engine, we got faster spool up and less smoke as well. I can't say there is more HP because we didn't dyno it, but what you have will get to the ground faster. We did leave the heater grid installed, so the effect probably is greater if you live in a climate where you can do without the heater.

On the surface, with pressurized charge air, you wouldn't think there would be that much difference, but there is. I was pleasantly surprised, I went into figuring it would just be a pretty. The stock piece is rough cast, so I am thinking both the geometry and smoothness of the inside contribute.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yea, alot of guys have made this style of intake. I think because it is simple and looks good. Its pretty easy to copy. I copied GDP's design. Just want everybody to know that. I aint trying to take credit for someone elses design. Its just simple and effective.
 

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Thats amazing! Nice job man
 
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