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Discussion Starter #1
Here is my build for my 78 F350. I had several goals in mind. Cure the quarter tank slosh issues, remove air and water, redundancy in case of failure, and a good price. :stirpot:

It is basically in 2 sections. The "low pressure prepump" and "higher pressure pump". The first section is also the accumulator and air separator. Depending on your choice of filters it could be your water separtor as well , but I chose to do that in the high pressure end.

Each section uses a Baldwin FB1311 filter base. The first section uses one modified with a dip tube and a bleeder port.

Section 1:

Carter 4600 low pressure pump used to suck fuel from the tank and push it into the modified FB1311 base with a Baldwin High Effeciency filter. This filter holds 2 quarts and dip tube is set about 2.5 inches from the bottom. The base has a -4AN bleed port that runs back to tank.

This section acts as the accumulator and air separator. As fuel enters the filter housing and fills it up, excess fuel and air can return to tank via the -4AN return port. The out port has the dip tube. This is the port the high pressure pump pulls from. By having the dip tube, it can pull from the bottom of the filter giving you a 2 quart reserve capacity to cure the slosh issue in the main tank!

Section 2:

A Carter HP4601 "higher" pressure (bout 15 psi) pulls fuel from the output diptube port of section 1. This goes into a unmodified FB1311 base and a Baldwin fuel water separator. Then it goes to my VE pump using a Russel -6AN to straight O ring 10 x1.5 swivel fitting. Pressure gage can be added here as well.

Since the 2 pumps have the same flow rate and the HP pump has no return, their should be no problems.

parts list:

Baldwin FB1311 bases (Grainger)
Baldwin filters (grainger)

-6AN male to -10 straight oring (Summit brand from Summit)These are for the filter bases
Carter 4600 and HP4601 fuel pumps (summit)
Russel -6AN to Metric 10x1.5 Swivel for VE Pump (Summit)
-6 AN Push Lok fittings and hose (locally)


Now for Pics!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Section 1 parts


The dip tube is a threaded 3/8 NPT nipple. The filter base port can be threaded with a 3/8 NPT tap as it is with no drilling!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This is the bleeder port. 1/8 NPT threads and a -4 fitting.



Careful not to drill into the sealing surfaces
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The higher pressure pump on down the frame. You can see the old Holley hangin down that I have to remount. The front tank will remain gas so I can fuel up my toys when we go wheeling! 38 gallon tank coming for the rear for the diesel :party018:



Later this week when I have time, I will tie into the VE pump and mount a pressure gage.

This should work.... I have ran a similar setup with accumulator on some of my extreme offroad toys. You can add regulators, bleed valves etc if you wish.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Fired up the rig today with the new fuel system. Primed super easy and held 15 PSI. I used a Earls swivel 90 to feed into the VE pump..:banghead:

it LEAKS! DON'T use one of those! I noticed the swivel was pretty loose. So I ordered a straight fittting and will go from there.

Right now I have not ran the star wheel down any and the only difference was the pump. Have a little more smoke and very responsive compared to the diaphram pump.

Waiting on the new fitting now....
 

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Section 1 parts


The dip tube is a threaded 3/8 NPT nipple. The filter base port can be threaded with a 3/8 NPT tap as it is with no drilling!
So if I'm understanding this it works as follows:

The "dip tube" forces the outlet of the filter / air separator to feed from the bottom of the filter, giving filtered fuel minus air as it's output. The -4AN at the top allows all the air and some fuel (whatever will fit through a -4AN) to feed back to the tank. The theory is that the air will stay in the tank, and the fuel will feed back into the system?

Then upstream of the filter / air separator you have a 4601 pulling fuel out of the air separator into a water trap and filter going to the motor?

How much HP will a 4601 support? I'm considering a similar setup for my '03 dodge. It's basically stock with a 100hp chip. I've been running it for 100K miles and 7 years on the chip and stock fuel system with no problems. I'm only looking to upgrade as I'm going to start burning some WMO as I don't have any other way to dispose of it.

Incidentally, I found this link for a 4601 a bit cheaper than summit.

Amazon.com: Carter P4601HP Electric Fuel Pump: Automotive
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That is correct on the way it works. Not sure how much hp it can support. I did have to add a bypass regulator as the pressure went up with the cold weather.
 

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I did kinda the same thing 2 years ago and it works great, for shure when you look at the cost of an air dog or fass.


 

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I just came across this post searching for a good way to set up my fuel system for my cummins swap. I have a few questions, what filter numbers did you use? What micron do they need to be to? Whats the proper pressure for a "p" pump?
 

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I really like this! I will have to start putting one together once i get my new tank!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I will have to look and see what the filter numbers are. 15psi seems to be the rule of thumb but I have ran mine to 25 psi with no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Reread the posts. It should become clear. First pump feeds a modified filterbase that has an airbleed back to tank. It also has a diptube. The mainpump then pulls from this diptube to feed the water separator/filter and then on to the injector pump.

Also for redundancy. I can bypass one if the other dies.
 

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Hello Darkstang,

I like your setup. How is your system running? I am looking at adding a Draw straw to my fuel system and while doing the research I found you DIY Air Sererator system and I would like to do what you did. and I have a few questions

In post #4 the picture with the filter mounted under the truck, BF7587 looks different then the one in post #5, that filter has a bleeder on the bottom of it.
Am I missing something?

Is if a BF7587?

Would you do anything different?

Are you running the stock filter/sererator?

Thanks
Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The system is running great. I did add a valve on the back to tank bleeder section to restrict the flow back to tank. My work filter has the images blocked but the filter with teh drain is the filter/water seperator and the last filter in the system. The first filter is a Baldwin High Effeciency 5 micron? filter that has the diptube in the base. I can get part numbers when I get home.

The setup has ran real good and I have put probably 5-6k miles on it.

I did add a cheap see through plastic filter on the input of the pump that pulls from the tank. My tank had rust in it and it stopped up the screen in the pump. I removed the screen in the pump and changed tanks to a good one and all is good now.
 

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Darkstang,

The Base is FB1311, the filter is BF7587, what part number are you using for the filter/seperator?

Also, Why did you add a valve to the return? What happened that made you think of adding the valve?

Thanks

Brian
 

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I like your set up!!! Looks way better then an AD or FASS. Do you think the that it would have to be altered to fit on a CR? As long as your getting 15ish?? PSI to the IP plus filtering down/ dewatering you should be good. I would think, but thats why im asking THANKS for any info...
 
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