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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I wanted to put a big line kit on my 3rd Gen, but I couldn't see spending $70.00 plus shipping on rubber hose and pushlocks.

I decided to build my own Big line kit, sourcing steel braided line and AN fittings from Summit. Not only would I be able to do it for less money, I ended up with what I feel to be a "Nicer" looking solution.

These are the P/N you will need if you choose to do what I did.

EAR-807692ERL -6 to Banjo(12mmX1.5)
RUS-670510 -6 to 12mmX1.5
SUM-220687 -6 to 90 hose swivel
SUM-230603 -6 S.S. hose, 3 ft.

If you want the ability to monitor your fuel PSI at the input of your CP3, you will have to order a Banjo bolt that is drilled and tapped, or drill and tap yours.

I ordered mine from Diesel Manor, when I ordered my guages, so I already had it.

Here are some pics from the install.

Your kit will look something like this:



First step is easy, just put the -6 90 swivel on the end of the hose and tighten down. If you aren't familiar with AN hose fittings, first take the threaded locking collar off(In my case, it's the red piece of the fitting) the fitting and put the hose inside that, then place the threaded end of the 90 piece up to it, (In my case the Blue part of the fitting)push together and thread it on.

Should look like this when you are done.



Before beginning work on yur vehicle, it is wise to disconect the battery!! The starter and fuel filter housing are on same side of motor. The starter has exposed connections!

Next, remove the line that runs from the bottom of your filter housing to your CP3 pump. This is easiest from underneath the truck. After removal, I took a pic comparing the banjo bolts. Which one do you think will flow more?



NOTE: it is entirely up to you if you want the 90 at your filter housing, and the banjo at your CP3, it can be done either way. The fit would be better with the 90 at the CP3, but I wanted to monitor fuel PSI at my CP3, that's why I did the Banjo there.

Next, screw the -6 to 12mmX1.5 (PN RUS-670510) into bottom of filter housing. This is easiest done through the Driver's side wheel well. Temporarily attach your 90 and hose to this, running hose up to the termination point of the CP3. Temporarily attach your banjo fitting to the CP3 and remove the threaded collar.
Lay hose next to banjo fitting and with a slight bow in hose, mark the hose for correct length. (It's important that hose be a little longer than required for ease of installation) Remove your banjo and 90 and hose from truck.

When I cut braided steel hose, I use a grinder with a steel cut off wheel. If you have some hose shears, then by all means, use them.
Before cutting, I wrap the steel braid tightly with electrical tape where I marked the hose, then cut. I do this to maintain some control of the steel braid shell. Save the remaining portion of hose, it is long enough to make another hose out of it.
After cutting, remove the tape and slip the threaded portion of the banjo fitting over the hose. (In my case, it's the red part). Next, thouroughly CLEAN the inside of hose! I use a few Q-tip swabs to start, then rinse with solvent, and check with swabs again.

Next put the threaded banjo fitting up to it(In my case the Blue part of the fitting) push together and thread it on.

Now, your hose should look like this:



Attach the 90 end at the filter, leaving it loose enough so the 90 will spin.
Using supplied aluminum (In some cases aluminum with o-ring) gaskets, attatch banjo fitting to CP3. tighten connection.
At filter end, tighten 90 end.

Here's a pic of the CP3 end of the hose:



Again, Please note I used the tapped Banjo bolt that Diesel Manor sells.

Here is a pic of the bottom of the filter housing taken through the driver fenderwell:



This pic is taken from top of the engine at the CP3 looking back toward the filter housing.


Connect the battery, turn key on and check for leaks, if none, start truck.

That's it!
 

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What benefits does this have, on a lightly moded truck like yours and mine for that matter? It looks really good thou!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's called preparation for bigger things to come! :thumbsup
 
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mmmk... so the answer would be, no benefit for the average truck....
 

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can we see some installation pics? Puh-leese???
 

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WILDCAT,

Very nice work!!! Wish I'd known about this yesterday at the Dyno event. I would have really liked to have seen it, in person.

I've been thinking about manufacturing a "Big Line Kit" & incorporating a 2 micron Caterpillar High Efficiency fuel filter between the stock fuel filter bowl & the CP-3. I had the Cat filter on my auxillary fuel tank but, had to remove it when I went with the Glacier Diesel GPS-392 fuel system set-up.

Did you find it cheaper to go through Summit rather than the local ParkerStore?

Thanks.

Joe F.(Buffalo)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
mmmk... so the answer would be, no benefit for the average truck....
Yeah, if you define "average truck" as completely stock, no programmer or performance mods.

Keep in mind with the stock lift pump, you have about 8 PSI at idle, feeding your CP3 through the small stock line.

Even with this mod and a stock lift pump, when I am fueling the truck, it drops to under 5 PSI. Next, I'll probably do an aftermarket lift pump.

CP3's don't like to run out of fuel. And although they will run on 0 psi, power will be affected.
If they are damaged, they are expensive to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
WILDCAT,

Very nice work!!! Wish I'd known about this yesterday at the Dyno event. I would have really liked to have seen it, in person.

I've been thinking about manufacturing a "Big Line Kit" & incorporating a 2 micron Caterpillar High Efficiency fuel filter between the stock fuel filter bowl & the CP-3. I had the Cat filter on my auxillary fuel tank but, had to remove it when I went with the Glacier Diesel GPS-392 fuel system set-up.

Did you find it cheaper to go through Summit rather than the local ParkerStore?

Thanks.

Joe F.(Buffalo)
Actually, I didn't even check the local Parker store, so I don't know. :CRY:

I imagine even greater savings can be had by doing so.
I sourced Summit because I don't usually have time to run around town to find what I need, and since I researched everything on the computer, it was easier for me to just place the order, and let the parts show up at my door. (I work allot of overtime.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I wouldn't say keeping the cp3 well fed "non benefiting"...:w:

Subscribed for install pics!
:thumbsup

Ok, I'll go out and take pics of it, I didn't take any when I did it, but it shouldn't really matter much...

I'll edit the original post, and insert the pics in there.

I'll post up here when they are in. Shouldn't take too long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Post install pics are up.
 

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Wildcat that is a great setup! I will be book marking this for future use and probably contact with questions if you do not mind.
The benefit I see is when you add a system like the Airdog or FASS, they come out of their upgraded lift pump and go right into the VP-44 which eliminates the stock fuel filter bowl. On my 2001 the fuel bowl is also the fuel heater. In Northern NJ it gets cold in the winter months and I plow with it so when the fuel temp gets below 58 degree the thermostat kicks in and keeps the fuel warm. I really do not want to lose that feature on the truck. If you add the upgraded lift pump and still want the fuel heater then to me it seems like you are defeating the purpose of upgrading to 1/2" lines and then use the stock fuel lines out of the bowl. This provided me a solution to upgraded the fuel lines from the lift pump to the VP-44 and keep the fuel heater. All I have to do is eliminate the stock fuel filter as the Airdog give the two filter system.
 

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First off, nice job it looks great. Just a few questions about this set up as I have plans similar to Nomad in adding AirDog later.

1. What size is the line--1/2"? I.D. or O.D.
2. What is the I.D. of the opening at the bottom of the stock filter canister?
3. I.D. of the 90* fitting?

I guess what I'm getting at is this- Is it a big line kit if the fittngs are necked down to 1/4" or 3/8" I.D.? To have the Airdog supplying fuel through 1/2" lines to the stock canister, in theory, creates a restriction at or after the canister that we are trying to eliminate. Maybe I'm wrong. Can someone enlighten me?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
First off, nice job it looks great. Just a few questions about this set up as I have plans similar to Nomad in adding AirDog later.

1. What size is the line--1/2"? I.D. or O.D.
2. What is the I.D. of the opening at the bottom of the stock filter canister?
3. I.D. of the 90* fitting?

I guess what I'm getting at is this- Is it a big line kit if the fittngs are necked down to 1/4" or 3/8" I.D.? To have the Airdog supplying fuel through 1/2" lines to the stock canister, in theory, creates a restriction at or after the canister that we are trying to eliminate. Maybe I'm wrong. Can someone enlighten me?
I do not understand what all the Airdog replaces. If it's everything between the tank and the CP-3 (Or VP44), including the stock fuel filter, and you are convinced this is necessary to feed your pump adequate pressure and volume of fuel, read no further. You don't need to do this.

I plan on making a custom Walbro GFS392 system, using -8 line and fittings, which will replace everything between my tank and my Stock Fuel filter. That will be sufficient to support my pump and Horsepower requirements. (I'll do a write up on this, also.)

On to your questions

1). -6 AN or 3/8" All tubing and line is referenced to I.D. Pipe is O.D. See below for quick reference to AN sizes.

2). if we go by fitting size, 12 mm X1.5, which is .472" or roughly 15/32" The closest equivelant size is 3/8".

3). 3/8"

My response to "What you are getting at":

If you are referring to the kit I fabbed up, It is in fact most certainly a "Big Line Kit".
Typically, "Big line Kit" refers to the replacement of the pressure line between the Stock filter housing, and CP-3.
The Stock line I.D. measures about .215", which is about 5.5 MM (VERY TINY). If we don't count the 2 directional changes accomplished by Banjo fitting of the stock line, (mine makes these directional changes, too...) there are 6 bends for an approximate total of 420 degrees of bend. There are pressure and flow losses over each of those, as well. THIS LINE is the key element for replacement, if you ask me.

You mention the size of the hole in the stock fuel filter, keep in mind, it's the same size hole in the CP3. (Not sure about the VP44, I don't have one.)

Increasing line size and increasing pressure up to the CP3, or VP44, will ensure that there is more volume and pressure to feed the pump. The purpose being to ensure it's not "Starving" for fuel.
Anything you do along these lines will be an improvement, but at some point, you will arrive at diminished return.
I don't know what kind of HP you are trying to support, I plan on being in the 500-750 HP range, and I don't plan on changing my stock filter housing.

AN Fitting sizes are based on 1/16".

In other words, if you have a -8 fitting, it is 8/16", which reduces to 1/2".
So, a -4 fitting is 4/16, or 1/4" a -10 fitting is 10/16 or 5/8"
Enough on that.

Performance fittings (The cool looking aluminum red and Blue ones) usually run pretty close in size to the advertised size of the fitting. Remember, it's beneficial to the performance fitting manufacturer to adhere to this for performance (Flow) reasons.
Brass or "Other" types of "Industrial" fittings may or may not, depending on what the manufacturer's goal was. It might have been strength, not flow...
 

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Great information Bill, thanks! :thumbsup
I'm kind of a newbie to this stuff so I'm still learning. Someone feel free to correct my mistakes here. The Airdog with the drawstraw install typically bypasses the stock filter canister. The drawstraw is a 1/2" I.D. tube connecting to 1/2" fuel line to the CP3. However i would like to keep the canister in the equation for the fuel warmer.

I appreciate the lesson on the AN sizing. I've been wondering how that worked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Great information Bill, thanks! :thumbsup
I'm kind of a newbie to this stuff so I'm still learning. Someone feel free to correct my mistakes here. The Airdog with the drawstraw install typically bypasses the stock filter canister. The drawstraw is a 1/2" I.D. tube connecting to 1/2" fuel line to the CP3. However i would like to keep the canister in the equation for the fuel warmer.

I appreciate the lesson on the AN sizing. I've been wondering how that worked.
I think keeping the stock filter housing in your truck would be a smart move for you. I can't imagine the HP and fuel consumption levels that would necessitate removing it (From a restriction to flow standpoint).

If you are going to keep the stock filter housing, you could obtain the correct -8 fittings (You would probably already have the hose from your kit, right?) and then do what I did, only in -8.

Good luck!
 

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Coolness, thanks again. I do plan on some higher HP in the future, but not until I get a tranny. Trying to plan ahead a little.:thumbsup
 

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subbed... good looking install I love A/N fittings lol
 

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I guess what I'm getting at is this- Is it a big line kit if the fittngs are necked down to 1/4" or 3/8" I.D.? To have the Airdog supplying fuel through 1/2" lines to the stock canister, in theory, creates a restriction at or after the canister that we are trying to eliminate. Maybe I'm wrong. Can someone enlighten me?


Agreed...that's why I wanted to see installed pics. The big line isn't going to do much if the fittings are still restrictive..

Most aftermarket lift pumps completely eliminate the cansiter and run 1/2" lines all the way to the CP3...
 
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