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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Updated 12/11/2015

PLEASE READ THIS WHOLE POST BEFORE POSTING IN THIS THREAD​

FIRST: BASIC ELEMENTS of DELETING 2010-2012 TRUCKS

1) Stop EGR cycles
2) Stop Regen cycles

PURPOSE OF SIMS ADDRESSES #2 ABOVE:

SIMS ONLY helps you to stop REGEN cycles (Nothing to do with EGR cycles). You remove the DPF and NOx from the exhaust system and replace these with a "delete pipe." The SIMS plug in where the four (three on 2007.5 - 2009 trucks) temperature sensors were plugged and they fool the ECM into thinking the emissions system is too hot so there is no need to do a REGEN. This is good because all you have is a straight pipe. It's even better because your fuel economy will shoot up! :)

NOW -- Here is the absolute cheapest way I know of to DPF delete on 2010-2012 trucks (and keep your old stuff to return to stock if you need to).

Deleting on The Cheap:
  1. Buy a Flo-Pro 835 Aluminized DPF removal kit with bungs from RSD (CF sponsor) for around $220 (downpipe and dpf removal pipe included) OR dpf delete pipe only with bungs for around $150.
  2. Buy 4 100 ohm SIMS from XDP (CF sponsor) for around $69.
  3. Unplug the 6 plugs to the sensors (two O2 6pin and 4 temp 2 pin) and the two hoses from the DPF pressure sensor by the tranny.
  4. Remove your exhaust system or DPF. Re-install is MUCH easier if you remove tailpipe. Lots of WD-40 on joints AND rubber hangers helps a lot too.
  5. If removing downpipe, support transmission and remove cross-member.
  6. Install downpipe / DPF delete kit (re-installing factory muffler and tailpipe).
  7. Move the TWO O2 sensors from stock system to two of the bungs and plug those back in.
  8. Leave the 4 temp sensors (smaller plugs) in the factory system in your garage. :thumbsup:
  9. PLUG the other bungs (see bung plug picture / information below)
  10. Plug in the 4 100 ohm SIMS to the temperature plugs.
  11. Leave the two DPF pressure sensors open to the environment (where two rubber hoses plugged in by the transmission).
  12. Unplug (or NOT for some 2011-2012 trucks) the EGR.
Total cost around / under $300 for full delete or $230 for DPF delete. Enjoy!

Notes:
  • None of this precludes getting a race tuner down the road. SIMS are the only thing wasted! This will get ya going.
  • Get an exhaust with bungs & plugs even if you are using a delete tuner. This way, you can go back to the stock calibration with $60 of SIMS if you need to for various reasons. Flexibility is important.
  • You can lower your cost ($60 + ship) by buying 4 100 ohm resistors and hard wiring them to your truck. (Not so elegant and maybe not worth the hassle to you -- The actual SIMS are nice.)
  • It's unlikely but you may get a code (P1484) from the SIMS alone.
  • If you unplug the EGR you will get a code and the CEL will illuminate immediately. No harm on 2010 and most 2011 trucks.
  • Buy a cheap code reader to monitor your codes if the CEL is illuminated to be sure you don't miss some other code that would have fired off the CEL.
  • For 2012's (and a few 2011's) apparently merely unplugging the EGR will cause the ECM to derate the engine. If there is a solution (short of a tuner, of course) -- that would be good for someone to share.
Some pictures of bung (OX sensor Bung- 18 x 1.5 MM) plugs. You can get them anywhere.
Lowes / Home Depot / Neighborhood Exhaust Shop (mine gave them to me for free).



Picture of location of temp sensors attached below:

-Guzzler
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Forgot to add the price of the code reader and the bung plugs lol
True. Bung plugs are very little and a code reader is optional -- plus it can be used on multiple vehicles. :)
 
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What would happen if you blocked the EGR crossover tube next to the intake manifold with a freeze plug? Leaving it plugged in it will still get hot. This would be on a '12.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
What would happen if you blocked the EGR crossover tube next to the intake manifold with a freeze plug? Leaving it plugged in it will still get hot. This would be on a '12.
The short answer is I don't know.

If someone with a 2012 has tried and has some feedback it would be good to know.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
So can everything you need be purchased at rsd?

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
Contact James at Rollin Smoke Diesel, tell him about your truck and what you want to do and he'll get you set up. I don't know about his stock, etc...
 
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When the egr opens the valve in the intake horn closes.
If you block the crossover and don't unplug the egr it will buck and stumble.

What would happen if you blocked the EGR crossover tube next to the intake manifold with a freeze plug? Leaving it plugged in it will still get hot. This would be on a '12.
 

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Contact James at Rollin Smoke Diesel, tell him about your truck and what you want to do and he'll get you set up. I don't know about his stock, etc...
Where can I find his contact info, sorry new to this forum and diesels in general
 

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Here is the absolute cheapest way I know of to DPF delete on 2010-2012 trucks.
Even cheaper; don't buy an exhaust at all. Bang out the dpf and nox guts and reinstall.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Even cheaper; don't buy an exhaust at all. Bang out the dpf and nox guts and reinstall.
Yes -- until you have to put it back to stock for some reason and pay a boatload for the parts -- if you can find them.

The idea here was to take your parts and store them for easy reversion to stock in the even you want to sell or trade. Hence the comment about putting the parts in the garage in the instructions. :)
 

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When the egr opens the valve in the intake horn closes.
If you block the crossover and don't unplug the egr it will buck and stumble.
Remove the plate from the butterfly valve in the intake. Leave it plugged in. The actuator still "closes" but there's no plate to cause obstruction.
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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Discussion Starter #14
Possible solution for 2011 and 2012 owners?

Remove the plate from the butterfly valve in the intake. Leave it plugged in. The actuator still "closes" but there's no plate to cause obstruction.
Are you suggesting this as a possible solution for 2011 and 2012 owners whose engines dereate when they unplug the EGR?

If it works a good "how-to" with pictures is in order. :thumbsup:
 

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Yes -- until you have to put it back to stock for some reason and pay a boatload for the parts -- if you can find them.

The idea here was to take your parts and store them for easy reversion to stock in the even you want to sell or trade. Hence the comment about putting the parts in the garage in the instructions. :)
Sorry, missed that part in the write up.

Are you suggesting this as a possible solution for 2011 and 2012 owners whose engines dereate when they unplug the EGR?

If it works a good "how-to" with pictures is in order. :thumbsup:
Here are the relevant pics from the write up on another forum







Credit for the pics to Compcowboy over at diesel bombers.com
 

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Edited into above post
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
GREAT! Thanks for posting. Great fotos!

Forgive my ignorance as I have done anything with the EGR other than either disabling via tuner or unplugging: If the butterfly is removed (i.e. OPEN) all the time, won't the EGR flow all the time? Or does the EGR flow based upon cutting off intake airflow?

OR are you saying remove the butterfly AND plug the crossover.... ????

Thanks Jeeperzz!
 

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Yes, butterfly and plug. Or, there have been some who have taken a gear out of the egr valve to effectively block it. I don't know too much about that.
 
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From looking at it I would say the butterfly is normally open and closes to some degree to take more intake flow from the EGR instead of clean fresh air.

I am fairly sure taking the butterfly out will cause a check engine light. When the truck commands the butterfly closed it will be looking for loss of air flow thru the mass air flow sensor not sure if it would cause a deliverability problem or not. I would not be surprised if it did.

Hopefully someone has tried and can give us a definite answer.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Interesting....
 
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