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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, newbie here. Just bought a 2008 Cummins 2500 Big Horn yesterday and I knew going into it that I'd need to drop a couple grand in it to make it run like it's designed to. So here's what I'm looking at, and then I've got two questions.

Rollin Smoke Diesel Delete Kit;

H&S Performance XRT Pro Race Tuner w/ overhead mount.
4" Turbo-back with Muffler Flo-pro
AFE Mega Cannon Cold Air Intake
Fuel Plug
Intake horn with boost tube.
Cooler only delete.

So here are my questions.

#1 - Is the AFE necessary or would the S&B be comparable for less $$?
#2 - Is the fuel plug necessary or would you just get the shim kit?
#3 - Is there anything I'm missing from the list? The goal is to get better MPG, more STOCK power, and see 500,000 miles on the truck one day. Not concerned with running the truck at the tuner's highest settings.
#4 - Is there a better/cheaper site to get this kit from? The above will cost ~$1850.


Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Bump for advice on my questions, except for question 4 (I know I'm going with RSD).
 

· Diesel Filled Veins!
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I don't think you need the CAI, you can do a cheap Lowe's CAI (tech section) for about $40 and still be good for about 500-550hp.

I would shim rather than plug the fuel rail, the relief valve is there for equipment protection, nothing like cracking the fuel rail when the relief would have prevented it.

You won't see too much in gains with the intake horn/boost tube set up with a stock turbo. Good to have if you're gonna upgrade the turbo later on. Also you'll be restricted by the grid heater even with the intake horn and boost tube.

If you're just keeping around stock power, perhaps do the EGR and exhaust deletes with the MiniMax first. The MiniMax is a nice programmer that will also double as a gauge display and leave the other stuff for later if you do decide on going bigger turbo & power. You may find that the MiniMax will give you more power than you want with just the OEM turbo and intake. Spend some of the saved money on the Overdrive programming for the tranny to help that last longer (auto only).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't think you need the CAI, you can do a cheap Lowe's CAI (tech section) for about $40 and still be good for about 500-550hp.

I would shim rather than plug the fuel rail, the relief valve is there for equipment protection, nothing like cracking the fuel rail when the relief would have prevented it.

You won't see too much in gains with the intake horn/boost tube set up with a stock turbo. Good to have if you're gonna upgrade the turbo later on. Also you'll be restricted by the grid heater even with the intake horn and boost tube.

If you're just keeping around stock power, perhaps do the EGR and exhaust deletes with the MiniMax first. The MiniMax is a nice programmer that will also double as a gauge display and leave the other stuff for later if you do decide on going bigger turbo & power. You may find that the MiniMax will give you more power than you want with just the OEM turbo and intake. Spend some of the saved money on the Overdrive programming for the tranny to help that last longer (auto only).
Good to know about the intake horn/boost tube not doing much. That saves $400 bucks. The price of everything you mentioned though, even without the horn/tube and with a "downgrade" to the S&B CAI, is still more than the original set-up I was planning on. The tranny software upgrade and the mini-max add a substantial amount. Is the tranny upgrade entirely necessary, even if I don't drive the truck hard at all and will keep the tuner on the lowest setting? Is it also necessary to have the mini-max vs. the XRT? Appreciate the reply.
 

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X2 on not needing the horn/boost and honestly best bang for the buck IMO is S&B dry filter. But you might want to throw in the Overdrive software from H&S if it's an Auto and I would shim also!!! Congrats man!
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks bro. I'm in the Army and have been dreaming about owning a Cummins for years. Got back from a deployment with enough cash, and here I am, in my dream-truck.

So it's unanimous, no horn/boost, and yes to S&B. How about the XRT vs. Mini-max?
 

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I would go XRT PRO or Mini max atleast you can do the OVERDRIVE software with the XRT Pro not the XRT, But I like the ability to shift tunes on the fly so I have a Blackmaxx. You can do the same thing with the minimaxx as you can the Black maxx my vote Minimaxx for you man!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
That last thanks was because I just read your sig and saw that you are also in the military. Come back safe bro. My convoy got blown up last deployment and jacked my knee up, but otherwise, been pretty lucky downrange.

I'm still going back and forth on the XRT Pro vs. the Minimax. I won't be doing any shifting of tunes on the fly so I'm not sure if the $300+ extra is worth it......
 
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For what it's worth, the bonus of the minimax over the XRT is gauges. Install, and tap for pyro then you can monitor everything. Otherwise you have to buy separate gauges, mounting pods etc. Probably break even on price after everything is in that you want to watch, EGT, boost, fuel pressure...on and on. Just my opinion though. Congrats on the truck an welcome home again.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

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The gauges are worth the extra $ of the mini max. Plus you get defueling options. And trust me, you will shift on the fly if its there (especially if you tow). The OD tune is a must. The s&b is a top notch filter at an affordable price (I'm about to buy one myself) or you can do a Home Depot CAI for $20.

Lastly, thank you for your service everybody. I'll watch your 6 over here while you're over there watching ours.
 

· Diesel Filled Veins!
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I see others have chimed in about the MiniMax but yes, it's because of gauges that I suggested it and the pyrometer is nice to have so you don't over fuel your engine and melt pistons. Also the on the fly power changes are nice for sure. Yes it's worth the extra money. Hope this has all helped make up your mind, I know it's a PITA to make large purchase decisions especially when the money is tight. If you do it right the first time, you won't have to pay to do it twice and cost twice as much in the end. Gauges are important just to keep your finger on the pulse of the truck and know how it's doing. I check my Edge gauges more than the OEM gauges when I'm driving. I like to know my tranny temp, exact engine temp, what gear and TC lock up, exact fuel level, boost, it's all great to keep an eye on! All the best buddy and thanks for your service!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just want to thank everyone for the advice. I've decided to go with the mini-max along with 4" turbo back flo-pro exhaust, tranny software, sinister cooler/EGR delete, s&b CAI, shim kit, and the overhead mount for the mini-max. Looking forward to updating this thread when I've installed the goodies. Thanks again.
 

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I think you will be very Satisfied. What truck is this all going on???
 

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Nice truck got a good deal!!! Congrats bro
 
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