Cummins Diesel Forum banner
Cancel

Dana 70 Disk brake conversion

16257 Views 16 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  Danderson, 
98C
Dana 70 Disc Brake Swap

Would this work or does someone have a better write up? I just had to replace my vp44 and next thing Im doing is the brakes all the way around and figure why not convert to disks since im there... Anyone have any suggestions on the front?
Reply
Save
Like
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Pele
I've heard mixed reviews about those conversion setups.

You'll also need to swap your master cylinder and proportioning valve since they're designed to pump fluid to the little drum brake cylinders. (Look at the cylinder bore size on drum cylinders versus a caliper bore.)

You may need to figure out what you're going to do for a parking brake.
Reply
Save
Like
Shainer
98C said:
Dana 70 Disc Brake Swap

Would this work or does someone have a better write up? I just had to replace my vp44 and next thing Im doing is the brakes all the way around and figure why not convert to disks since im there... Anyone have any suggestions on the front?
Click to expand...
I've done it, and hated it. Why did I hate it? Park brake didn't work for sh!t. Granted I had a manual trans but it was an absolute deal breaker. No way an Eldorado caliper will hold. I purchased it on a whim. The whim was driven by a trip to a Midas shop. They do what they do and listed out a long list of work that needed to be done with pricing. I obviously had money at the time but was still shocked at what they quoted me. I had the naive mind set that disks are always better than drum. That is an overly general assumption. On the front axle... yes they are better. On the rear... not so much. OEM has proven this as they have, in some applications, gone back to rear drums. After my senses returned I went back to drums. Upgraded to 1 ton cylinders, and made sure the star wheel teeth were "tuned" to ensure the actuator lever would not slip and not allow the drums to adjust. All I needed to accomplish this was a tri file and a touch up on the star wheel. Have not manually adjusted the drums in over 5 years, and the rear axle is always locks before the front.

The $300 they show at the end provides no park brake at all. I know this because the caliper doesn't have the lever for it. To get the park brake caliper the price doubles.
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
98C
What do you mean you converted to 1 ton drums?
Reply
Save
Like
cummins04.5handshaker
I followed that thread on doing my rears to disc and that bracket did not work. I had to cut the bracket in half for it to allow the caliper to slide over the rotors. I have no parking brake anymore but at least I don't have the crappy rear drums!
Reply
Save
Like
wcuhillbilly
similar set up, but I used the TSM (The Streetrod Mfg Co) version on my 14 bolt,,, the Eldorado caliper belongs in the trashcan for our trucks... The caliper is fine on cars, but will not hold a truck. Mine rolled down my drive and through a fence a couple times, with the parking brake fully engaged on a minor hill.. I now use a MICO Line Lock.
The other issue Ive had is that the Right Rear tends to wear out faster, or seize up altogether, thus wiping out the inner pad and toasting the rotor. With the Cummins I dont even feel the drag...
yes, pulling the drums is a PITA but somedays I wish I had never swapped out. especially at -20 and Im under there beating on the caliper with a hammer and torch trying to get them to release.
To replace the Cadilac Eldo caliper, I use a 3/4ton 73-87 GM 4x4 Front axle caliper, Thus no parking brake actuator to leak or rust up, or ratchet adjust itself into the rotor. These calipers are cheap and easy to find, however for our trucks, we really need a twin piston or dual caliper design, which I doubt will be obtainable in a quality "Kit" form.
The rotor these guys are using is GM 2000-2004 Drum in hat rotor, which originally had the parking brake shoes inside the cavity of the rotor drum, with the caliper brakes on the rotor the parking brake acted and functioned just like a normal drum inside the 7" drum, cable engaged etc... This is also the way our old rollback with a Sterling Axle functioned except it had twin piston calipers and the parking function actually worked...
real world stopping, yes the discs help some, but the draw back is the lack of a trustworthy parking brake. I know I need a parking brake, as opening gates in the winter on snow and ice is not fun starting and stopping the truck every some odd feet.
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
98C
or does anyone have a link or know what parts I need to convert my drums to GM 1 ton drums???? :party018:
Reply
Save
Like
99FiveNine
98C said:
or does anyone have a link or know what parts I need to convert my drums to GM 1 ton drums???? :party018:
Click to expand...
I think he just meant the actual wheel cylinders, correct me if I'm wrong, but just pick up some 3500 wheel cylinders next time you have your drums torn apart.
Reply
Save
Like
Mopar1973Man
I've got the factory 02 rear disc brakes and the parking brakes are good for just a empty truck on flat ground but now hitch up a trailer and add a slope now yo got a truck that want to move even with the brakes set. I will admit the parking brakes not the greatest but if you stay after them they will hold a truck in place or a trailer in more normal conditions.
Reply
Save
Like
AGood22
i wish that this worked better..
Reply
Save
Like
F
I had to cut the bracket in half for it to allow the caliper to slide over the rotors.
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
fromthewoods
Just wondering if anyone ran this kit yet with satisfaction? I may very seldom pull a trailer, but am looking for less rotational weight. Looking to run the kit with 77 k20 chevy front rotors and calipers. Reason being is going with a build that will be at the strip running the quarter a lot, not so much the heavy load needed stopping power. Thanks for any additional input. Probably gonna do it so I will post my personal input, but truck is in paint right now, then the go fast parts, then the disc brake conversion.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Reply
Save
Like
helmethair78
wcuhillbilly said:
I now use a MICO Line Lock.
Click to expand...
Do you have the electric activated lock and are you happy with it?
Reply
Save
Like
robdrose
I used the rear disc brake kit on my 80 for years, the brakes were 10x better then the drums. My drums would not stay adjusted. I also had upgrated to the 1-ton wheel cyl which really didn't help when the brakes wouldn't stay adjusted. As for the parking brakes on the disc using the caddy calipers suck. The throw on our parking brake pedal is just not enough. If you don't need a parking brake the kit is great and cheap. I also now have a 2002 factory disc and the parking brake is not the best, it works but will not hold a load on the truck.
Reply
Save
Like
wcuhillbilly
helmethair78 said:
Do you have the electric activated lock and are you happy with it?
Click to expand...
I like the MICO, and yes I have the electric version. Just make sure you have good lines on the frame or the rear. As holding that kind of pressure will test for leaks. I got mine through a company in Tennessee called Hammond Eng. they were a bit cheaper than most folks and were nice to call and talk to about my application. Mine has the switch plumbed in that will sound a buzzer if leak down is detected, I never hooked it up.. always meant to wire it to the "Brake" light in my 85 GM dash, to indicate that the brake was on, (if wife is driving etc) I dont use it for long periods as in overnite. usually just to open the gate or hold the truck. Sucks when you brake a brake line in the rear, I need to plumb on in for the front, to have 4 wheel lock as for winching.
Reply
Save
Like
CoalTrainCummins
If it was me I would just keep the drums, they are pretty simple if you've been around them and like moparman said the park brakes hold a lot better on drums than discs
Reply
Save
Like
Danderson
Shainer said:
I've done it, and hated it. Why did I hate it? Park brake didn't work for sh!t. Granted I had a manual trans but it was an absolute deal breaker. No way an Eldorado caliper will hold. I purchased it on a whim. The whim was driven by a trip to a Midas shop. They do what they do and listed out a long list of work that needed to be done with pricing. I obviously had money at the time but was still shocked at what they quoted me. I had the naive mind set that disks are always better than drum. That is an overly general assumption. On the front axle... yes they are better. On the rear... not so much. OEM has proven this as they have, in some applications, gone back to rear drums. After my senses returned I went back to drums. Upgraded to 1 ton cylinders, and made sure the star wheel teeth were "tuned" to ensure the actuator lever would not slip and not allow the drums to adjust. All I needed to accomplish this was a tri file and a touch up on the star wheel. Have not manually adjusted the drums in over 5 years, and the rear axle is always locks before the front.

The $300 they show at the end provides no park brake at all. I know this because the caliper doesn't have the lever for it. To get the park brake caliper the price doubles.
Click to expand...
X2. I hated mine. Parking brake sucked,soft pedal due to insufficient master cylinder reservoir. I'd just work on enhancing the stock brakes.
Reply
Save
Like
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Cummins Diesel Forum
A forum community dedicated to all things Cummins Diesel! Originally founded for owners and enthusiasts of Cummins powered Dodge pickups, the Cummins Forum has expanded to include ALL Cummins Engine applications! Come join the discussion about reviews, drivetrain swaps, turbos, modifications, classifieds, builds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
03-07 Performance Parts Discussion 03-07 Powertrain 2013-2018 General Discussion 98.5-02 Powertrain 98.5-02 Performance Parts Discussion
Top