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Discussion Starter #1
Had a weird clunk in the rear end when I would turn at very slow speeds. Seemed to be okay when I would drive straight but when I would turn at slow speeds the rear end would make a loud clunk and the driver side wheel was spinning abnormally (seemed to get stuck like it had extra frictional resistance). I also have a seal leak but this is out on the wheel bearing seal on the driver side.

I decided to pop the diff cover off tonight and definitely found some issues. The cover had metal shavings in the magnet and definite contact/scarring on the inside face of the cover (see pictures below). The tone wheel has some gashes in it as well as the case half with the tone wheel flange. The pinion mate gears and the side gears inside the case are definitely chewed up (see pictures below). Ring gear and pinion appear to be okay but hard to say they are untouched and with how much of a mess I have found I want to assume they may have some unseen damage as well.

So I obviously have a mess on my hands and thus I am trying to figure out the best route to go at this point. I know they make rebuild kits for the Dana 70 but is there a complete overhaul kit available because I am thinking everything is going to need to be replaced? The other question is would I be better off just finding a new axle?
 

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If you're unsure of what you're doing or dont have the proper tooling...I highly advise you simply take it to a reputable differential/driveline shop. You'll need a complete rebuild since the spiders are shot and the metal debris floating around in the lube probably did some work on the bearings and possibly the ring and pinion. No need to swap axles either as you'd have to find the exact same axle and it wouldnt be easy either.
I do have to poke fun at any of the people in the differential cover threads who always cough at those who install aftermarket covers while claiming that differentials are bulletproof...
 

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More info needed including location.
There are some on Craig's list in Sacramento Ca area.
You need to match year group.(brakes and Speed sensor)
Brake type.
Gear ratio 3.55 or 4.10
Limited or open diff if matters to you.
Same speed sensor if drum brakes.
Dana 70 for automatic.
Manuals have Dana 80.

Same applies to acquiring rebuild parts.
Your gears may be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I am in the Minneapolis Minnesota area and work north of the twin cities. There are definitely some options for getting a used full axle if that is the best route. I should be able to find one.

Automatic Transmission so Dana 70 rear axle
Disk brakes
Sticker in glove box says its 3.55 gears and limited slip differential but here's where I get confused and tell me if I am going about this incorrectly.

I wanted to check the gear ratios and if it truly is limited slip because the two previous owners have done quite a bit of work to the truck so I don't know if it's been changes since factory.

For the gear ratio check I marked the u joint at the input of the differential (at the end of the driveshaft. I spun the wheel 1 complete rotation while the truck was in neutral and I only counted roughly 1.75-1.8ish turns of the u joint. Does that make any sense or could it be a result of my trashed diff?

Now for the limited slip I did two tests one in park and one in neutral:

park: I spun each of the rear wheels individually and the other side would spin in the opposite direction (when spun both in forward and reverse)

neutral: I spun each of the rear wheels individually. When spinning forward they would spin individually (the other side would not spin at the same time). When I spun them backwards the other side would spin in the opposite direction.
 

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Limited slip may be worn out making it act like an open. Maybe somebody put in an open. You can install either one. Just match the 355 and brakes. AKA 01/02 with disc brakes and 3.55. 3.55 means 3.55 turns of the driveline to one turn of the axle. You did not count right somehow. maybe it is because one was turning each way halving it.
There was only 355 and 410 originally Glove box while show which and it will say DSA for limited slip(aka Antispin).
A used one a can be any where from 250 to $1000 depending on how good of a shopper you are and patience. 750 average.
Parts alone will be about 750 Plus without gears, and hard to find. Open would be less without clutches etc.
I would look for a used 355 with DSA and disc brakes. 01+, Pull cover and inspect first on replacement.
 

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i also live in minneapolis, if you are going for a rebuild i know some guys who work at a local drive line shop that have always given good prices. i personaly always recomend rebuild over replace. you never know what you are getting in youre replacement unit. these axles are not terribly expensive in parts to rebuild, i did both of mine with heavy upgrades for under 2500. id bet you could get hte back parts for less than 600 baring any catastrophic damage to the housing.

the pictures look like the factory trackloc, probably just needs a rebuild.

the parts are not hard to find, i got YG gearing from randys R and P for somewhere around 300 and a full master rebuild kit for around 100. clutches for the LSD are around 50 and those spiders are locally available from proven force drive line
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What's the name of the drive line shop that you used? I may check them out to get a quote.

Average price of a high miles axles (200,000+) seems to be about $500 around here (most are drum brakes but I did find a couple with disc) and low miles (under 200,000) seems to be around $1000.
 

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the prices for a used axle arnt bad, if you find a disk one thats a good upgrade. the parts stores are Proven force here in the cities, they have two shops. then there is another parts shop about 2/3 of hte way to rodchester - zumbrota drive line, and its owned by randys ring and pinion (the website). there are two shops that i have gone to for drive line advice (i do my own work so ive never used them directly for repair). one is AA drive line in anoka (they have sold me parts at a great price and ran weld beads for cheap on parts my 110V wasnt safe on). then there is TSI transmission just down the street from my work, a friend who helped me with my transmission works their as their tech (at least they were in talk to hire him last i spoke to him so i think he is there) reguardless he usedto work with some rebuild shops on gorend transmissions and also does repairs out of his garage on the side, very good tech.
 

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Just an FYI... If you swap for a rear disc axle then you'll have to change a few items on the braking system, like the master cylinder and rear proportioning valve. But that said, if you live were corrosion is an issue then the 2nd gen rear disc calipers were notorious for sticking.
 

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Hey guys, Post 4 he stated he already has disc brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Bigfish is correct, my truck already had the disc brakes on the Dana 70 axle and KATOOM is correct about the caliper corrosion issue. I already replaced one that broke off the caliper bracket. I plan to do the other side once I get the diff figured out.

At this point I am leaning towards buying a full axle and just swapping out the axle to save some money. I found one for $550 but it does have 250,000 miles on it. If it looks good internally I may run with that one. Otherwise there is one for $1,000 which only has 110,000 miles on it but the truck was totaled pretty bad and they stated the rear driveshaft was bent so that makes me a little nervous.

I also want to make sure I actually do have 3.55 gears. Does anyone know what the tooth count would be on the ring gear? I think there may be a part number etched on it as well that I can go back in and look at.
 

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i would do a rebuild long before i take a chance with an axle that had enough force to bend a drive shaft
 

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I second the rebuild. Then you know its good and you have something that should last without the unknowns of its prior history. And the axle ratio will be on the metal tag or on the build code sticker which may still be on the inside of the glovebox.
 

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in the metro here there are many shops and good people on craigs list too if you dont know how to do it your self. if you need a good gear mechanic out of his garage i know some numbers. just pm me and ill reach out to them if you choose to go that way
 

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Spin your yoke. If you spin 3.5~ times for the axle to make one complete revolution, its 3 55...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Alright, so I decided I want to do a rebuild so that I don't risk swapping axles and running into problems again. I think I am going to try and tackle it myself to save some money. I have never done gears before but I know I can figure it out if I take my time and get the right tools. I am going to see if I can tear into it this weekend to pull everything out and asses what needs to be replaced. I also think I am going to do a full rebuild on all the bearings and seals while I am in there.

As for parts, it appears there is a proven force store within 15 minutes of my house so I may try them. Otherwise is the randy's pinion and gears website randysworldwide.com? I google searched them and a few different ones popped up.

What brand gears would you guys recommend? I know I see a lot of people using Yukons. I guess it will depend on what all I will need to replace once I get into it but I know for sure the spiders need to be replaced. As for bearings I know Timken have a good reputation are there any others?
 

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timkin are good. i use USgears for my bearings and YUKON for my R and P. ive been using them since building rock crawlers with my auto teacher in HS. youkons can be noiser but they are strong as frigg and in our trucks noise is not an issue
 
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