[Big Dodge2008]

About to burn this truck to the ground. This code has been happening since last year. Didn't pay much attention to it since it had only done it twice last years when the temps were under 20 degrees. Figured it had to do with the cold snaps. Well now its been doing it frequently now for the past month. Had the check engine light come on with the flashing lightening bolt flashing. Did it as the truck was warming up. did it while driving, though there might of been a sweet spot in the pedal that might be causing it but it wasn't since its done it while sitting at a stop light. Did it one time as I was backing into a parking spot, did it as I was hitting the breaks to make a turn. Though turn the truck off and turn it back on and it's fine. Did a search on here and decided to check the wiring for any type of rubbing. Nothing. Cleaned the connector at the pedal just to see if that was it and nothing. I read where some were changing the pedal out but that didn't fix there problem so I haven't tried that yet. Don't want to by one and that not fix it. Was going to look more into the brake pedal since it happened twice when I was pressing the pedal but then it's happened when I was pressing the accelerator pedal also. Anyone might have any other suggestion on where I might start checking, I might of missed something.

 

[Bludool]

How are your batteries? If older, might want to check them. They can create some really strange problems.

 

[Big Dodge2008]

Had them checked also.

 

[Big Dodge2008]

Well it's been a while and for some reason it's been cold in the mornings and haven't' had the lightening bolt flash until yesterday. But had throttle response. No getting into the pedal and have it start to jerk the truck. Just smooth acceleration with the check engine light on and the flashing lightening blot flashing. Thinking more about going to the dealer to see if the darn thing needs a flash.

 

[Big Dodge2008]

How are your batteries? If older, might want to check them. They can create some really strange problems.

Well thought they were good. Found out the the tester I borrowed from a friend was having issues and when we hooked it to some bad batteries that were bad the reader said that they were good. So we tried another one and it said that the batteries were weak, health was about 50%. So went to O'Reilly and had them doubled checked and also shows that they were week. So I replaced them and had the light and flashing lightning bolt come on but it didn't come on immediately. Was actually driving for about 5-10 minutes before it happened and then the other day drove around for a while and had no cel lights come on. But still looking into when it happens the pedal is unresponsive until I stop at a stop sign, wait a few seconds and the pedal is fine. So I might still wait for my pedal to come in and drive it for a while to see if it starts acting up.

 

[DodgeMech]

Theory of Operation


The throttle pedal produces two voltage signals proportional to the pedal movement. The voltages are created by electronic circuitry within the pedal assembly. The primary signal varies between 0 and 5 volts and the secondary signal varies between 0 and 2.5 volts. The Engine Control Module uses the two signals to validate throttle pedal position to control engine fueling. The ECM illuminates the MIL lamp immediately after the diagnostic runs and fails. During this time the customer will be in a limp home mode. The ECM will turn off the MIL lamp after the diagnostic runs and passes in 4 consecutive drive cycles.

- When Monitored:
While the engine is running

- Set Condition:
The ECM detected a conformance error between APPS 1 and APPS 2

Diagnostic Test


1. OTHER DTCS PRESENT
Using the scan tool, check for any additional APPS fault codes
Do you have any additional APPS faults?

Yes


- troubleshoot other DTCs first, Go To2


No


- Refer to the INTERMITTENT CONDITION Symptom (Diagnostic Procedure). See: Computers and Control Systems > Component Tests and General Diagnostics > Intermittent Condition .



2. APPS HARNESS
Verify that the APPS is connected.
Inspect the harness and the APPS connector.
Are any pins damaged?

Yes


- Repair or replace the harness.
- Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST - 6.7L. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Verification Tests > Powertrain Verification Test


No


- Go To3



3. APPS
Monitor the APPS 1 and APPS 2 voltage with the scan tool while depressing the accelerator pedal.
Is the voltage transition shown on the scan tool smooth while depressing the accelerator pedal and is the voltage from APPS 1 twice as much as the voltage from APPS 2?

Yes


- Go To4


No


- Replace the APPS.
- Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST - 6.7L. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Verification Tests > Powertrain Verification Test



4. (K23) APPS 1 SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN
Disconnect the C2 ECM harness connector.
Disconnect the APPS connector.

NOTE: Check connectors - Clean/repair as necessary.

Measure the resistance of the (K23) APPS 1 Signal circuit between the APPS connector and the C2 ECM connector.
Is the resistance below 10 ohms?

Yes


- Go To5


No


- Repair the open in the (K23) APPS 1 Signal circuit.
- Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST - 6.7L. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Verification Tests > Powertrain Verification Test



5. (K852) 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT OPEN
Measure the resistance of the (K852) 5-volt Supply circuit between the APPS connector and the ECM connector.
Is the resistance below 10 ohms?

Yes


- Go To6


No


- Repair the open in the 5-volt Supply circuit.
- Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST - 6.7L. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Verification Tests > Powertrain Verification Test

to spare a lot of room i skipped some stuff dealing with checking continuity between the 6 pins on the throttle connector to the ecm...if you'd like to see those i'll post...but, here's the last few things on the list




22. ECM
Reconnect the ECM connectors.
Reconnect the APPS connector.
Turn Ignition on, engine off.
While monitoring with the scan tool, disconnect the sensor connector.
Did a APPS 1 and APPS 2 voltage too low DTC set?

Yes


- Go To 23


No


- Replace the ECM.
- Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST - 6.7L. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Verification Tests > Powertrain Verification Test



23. APPS
Reconnect the APPS connector.
Monitor the APPS 1 and APPS 2 voltage with the scan tool while depressing the accelerator pedal.
Is the voltage transition shown on the scan tool smooth while depressing the accelerator and is the voltage from APPS 1 twice as much as the voltage from APPS 2?

Yes


- Refer to the INTERMITTENT CONDITION Symptom (Diagnostic Procedure). See: Computers and Control Systems > Component Tests and General Diagnostics > Intermittent Condition


No


- Replace the APPS.
- Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST - 6.7L. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Verification Tests > Powertrain Verification Test

 

[Big Dodge2008]

Don't have a scan tool and it looks like I might have to get one.

 

[Big Dodge2008]

Hadn't been on for a while, trying to get done with school. Well I'm still trying to figure out this code. So I did the batteries and still have the problem. So I ordered a new pedal for it. Actually took the old one off and used that number since the tech at the dodge dealership got the wrong information. Had to go the parts guy there to help figure this out. So when I got it I was stalling because I just didn't think that the pedal was the issue. Most of the time it would happen first thing in the morning, then happening at random. So what I started was hitting the pedal a couple of times, with the key on, then start it. Been doing that for about 2-3 weeks without the lightning bolt appearing. So then I stopped and then it would happen. So I went under the dash and looked everywhere to see if something was loose or rubbing and can't find anything. But then it seem to stop, lightning bolt not appearing for a few weeks. Then all of a sudden it would start. So I decide to replace the pedal. And sure enough on my way to work it came on going over some bumps. So then I figure I might of missed something under the truck, though I looked over everything weeks ago. Can't find nothing. But on the way home no lightning bolt. Then leaving out of the driveway today it comes on without touching the pedal. Didn't seem to act funny in driving. Went to lunch and nothing. Got in the truck, turned the key to the on position, lightning bolt already flashing, start it and flashing again. Driving it, at certain point in the pedal it would act funny, but I again rest the pedal. Thinking now since there were times that it would come on when I was hitting the brake, would it hurt to change out the brake switch. I'm kind of at a lost here.

 

[longrider]

If it was electrical I would think you'd be getting all sorts of weird codes, but I'd suggest you remove all of the grounds (5) I believe, remove the paint and use a bit of dielectric grease on each one. Pay good attention to the ground strap under the truck to the body. Solved my gremlin many years ago. nothing the lose even if it doesn't help

 

[Big Dodge2008]

Well that didn't work. Might go over a look over everything. Maybe something I might of overlooked.

 

[El Pozzinator]

this might be completely retarded, but have you checked to make sure you don't have any loose fuses? i realize they're stuffed in there pretty good, but i can't help but wonder if one of them did manage to come loose or get some gunk down in there or something what might start acting wonky. considering that pretty much everything goes through one (or both) fuse blocks, it might not be a bad idea to give them a sniff along with their in, out, and ground lines while you're going over connections.

 

[timflury]

"reset" the ECM by disconnecting BOTH cables on BOTH batteries. Take a jumper wire and "short" the positive and negative cables together on either side of the truck for a few seconds.

AND, you should be able to check the resistance on the throttle pedal. You should see a steady resistance change when you slowly actuate the pedal. You can get away with a digital meter, but using an old analog ohmmeter is best in case there's a small fluctuation when moving the pedal.

 

[Alabamacoalminer]

I'm having pretty much the same problem. I have replaced my pedal and reset several times using this method and nothing has changed. Still have the p2121 code cel light and lighting bolt. What else can I try ? I'm thinking of going back to my old pedal and trying it again. The old pedal was just erratically throw this code and go away till today when it came on and stayed on. I've traced wires and can't find any rubbs or scrapes. I will test the battery's again in the morning. I'm at the end of my rope with this truck!
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-maintenance/1107-apps-reset.html

 

[Big Dodge2008]

Sorry I just got back from my 2 weeks in Florida with the reserves. I'll try and do the reset to see what that does. Went and check those fuses and they were all in there. Was surprised when I got to work with out a problem today. But then on the way home, hitting the breaks to make a turn and the damn thing came on. I'm with you Alabama, ready to dump this thing in the lake.

 

[Alabamacoalminer]

Big dodge
For the last couple days mine has been fixed. Here is what I did. I put a new apps pedal on no change still got the code and cel light. I went back and put my old app pedal back in and I let My truck set with the battery cables (both) off for about 8hrs. Went threw the rest process and it has had 1 hick up since I done this. That was this past Friday. So fingers crossed it stays off till I can get rid of it!

 

[Big Dodge2008]

Well did the apps reset today and had a whole day of not having the flashing lightning bolt come on. But now I probability jinxed myself and the stupid thing will probability come on tomorrow.

 

[Big Dodge2008]

Well crap didn't take long for it to show back up again.

 

[MX4Life]

From Dodge

Symptom/Vehicle Issue:

Mil Light On DTC Codes P2121, P2122 , P2127
Possible No Throttle Response , or Possible Intermittent Concern. APP Sensor Has Already Been Replaced.

Diagnosis:
Poor connections at the C130 connector . Other possible causes are rub through in the APP wiring near the brake pedal bracket , or poor connection at the APP sensor connector.
1. Check supply voltage , signal voltage ,and ground at the APP sensor Connector
2. Disconnect the C130 connector and inspect for water intrusion , corrosion , and for any damaged or pushed out pins
3. Repair any connector issues found
Verification:
1. Wiggle test wires at the C130 connector while monitoring for any changes on the APP sensor reading using your scan tool.
2. Road Test Vehicle to make sure DTC’s do not reset

 

[xcc_rider]

If you pm me your email addy I'll send you the diagnostic tests with the contact diagrams so you can check the wiring for shorts.

 

[Big Dodge2008]

Sorry I haven't been up here in a while, Been having this issue for an awful long time and wanted to give an update. So tried other things that were mentioned and was still having the same problem. So I was sitting in the garage looking at the the old pedal and figured, what the heck, I'll put that back in to see what it does. Installed it, reset it. Next morning pulling out of the driveway and comes on. Got to my daughters bus stop and what the heck I'll shut it off. Went to start it up and light is off. Strange cause it usually stays on. So next day no issues. About the next day or so light comes on going out the driveway. Get to the bus stop, turn it off. Went to leave, started it light is off. So this happens for about 2 week with the light coming on every 2-3 days, in the morning as I'm rolling out the drive way not hitting the pedal yet but using the brake. So I went and ordered a brake switch just in case. Then one day was leaving the bus stop and pushing the pedal and the truck starts jerking and bucking like there was no fuel going to it. Get out on the road and was doing it fora about a mile with no check engine light. So I was like what the heck and hit the pedal to the floor. Seemed to clear up. Got to work and started thinking crap when was the last time I changed out the fuel filter. Got back home and it was about 25,000 miles ago. So i changed it and it's going on about 2 weeks with out the lightning bolt coming on. So now I've been thinking I didn't do anything different when changing out the pedals and I double checked everything around. I don't think the restriction of the fuel filter would of caused my pedal to act up, could it?