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This all started about 3 weeks ago on my way to work, I was going 70 MPH down the interstate and my truck just cut out for a split second then kept going. Then when I got off the interstate and pulled up to a stop light it died all together and wouldn't restart. After a few minutes of screwing aroung it finally took off. I changed the fuel filter after work and it ran like a champ. Now about a week after that it cut out on me again while I was driving down the highway and kept going after that just fine. So now I changed the lift pump. Last night on my way home from work it cut out again. I was going down the interstate and it just cut out and I pressed the clutch in goosed the throttle and it kept running, as I was making the last turn before my house it cut out again and almost died completely. I got to looking at a wiring diagram and am kinda thinking maybe it is the fuel shut off on the injector pump or the power that is supplied to it. Looks like it comes from the ignition switch and teh voltage regulator so maybe the ignition switch is starting to go. The voltage meter reads normal so I am thinking that the voltage regulator is fine. Any advice or if someone else has had this problem please help.:buttkick::banghead:
 

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Hi,

Loss of power at 70 mph...the worst.

Lots of people seem to have a problem with a loose or corroded connector at the fuel shut-off solenoid. If you search for it, you will see some people convert to a screw-down eye terminal rather than the slip on terminal.

You are right: could be ignition switch. But, that is not nearly as common as the terminal problem. I would start by bomb-proofing the terminal.

Roy
 

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I would agree. Sounds electrical to me. There are several connectors besides the one on the solenoid, check them as well.
One other possibility is the tip on the shut off solenoid has come loose and blocks the port.
 

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Mine shut off a couple times, both when going above 70. i still havent figured out what caused it. I just thought it was a governer or somthin before I found out thats not how they work lol. Maybe was the LP not keeping up with the injection pump:confused013:. Weird though.
 

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Could be water in fuel system, my 2nd gen did that this summer. I drained fuel filter and put some Power service in the white bottle in it and took care of the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I add power service everytime i fill up and last time i added the stuff in the white bottle. I got thinking about it and it almost seems like it is temp related somehow, because the first time it did it was on my way to work for a night shift and it was not very cold out. The next morning after I changed the fuel filter it ran fine on the way home and it was about 0 out. Now the last time it did it I was going to work in the morning and it was about 20 degrees out and it ran fine but then on the way home that evening it was about 40 or so degrees and it started acting up again. Not sure if when it is cold out it is enough to cool a wire or something well enough to work but when it warms up the wire overheats and loses its ability to conduct electricity. I am thinking about running a temprary wire to the unused arm on the electrode at the injector pump and unhooking the factory one and seeing if it runs ok like that to try and narrow this down.
 

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A loose terminal on the solenoid could do that or if the wire isn't making a good connection on the terminal. As a temporary troubleshoot you could run a hot wire to a toggle switch and put on the solenoid.
 

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I would drain the water from the fuel filter and clean and dielectric grease the solenoid terminal first (simple, cheap, very common problem). If the problem comes back after that, I would certainly do Oldram's hot wire method.

Probably would do the solenoid plunger inspection next.

One fix at a time ends with you knowing what the problem was...always nice to know. On the other hand, I am sure you want the symptoms to be over asap.
 

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Also you could remove the plunger and spring from the solenoid and use the manual shut off to check for a bad solenoid. Like irhunter said do 1 step at a time, sometimes it takes a while but it will fix the problem. I always liked easy first.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It is damn cold where I am at right now so not going to worry about if for a few days. I will clean up the contact and trace the wire back to make sure that it is not rubbing anywhere when it warms up in a few days. If that does not take care of it then I will take out the solenoid and have a look at it. If it comes to that can I get a new one at napa or do I have to go to Cummins to get one? Also which lever is the kill lever on the injector pump just so I can check that out also? The fuel shutoff solenoid works fine as far as shutting the engine down when the key is shut off so if it is messed up it is not as bad as some that I have read about on here I guess.
 

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I vote for loose terminal on the FSS, mine was doing that a couple months ago. I think part of the throttle assembly was rubbing on the wire making it move and have a bad connection.
 

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The kill lever is on the side of the pump just above the KSB.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I traced teh wire coming from the fuel shutoff solenoid all the way back and it appears to be in good shape. I reworked the connection at the solenoid and if it looses connection there now I have bigger problems to worry about. I went and drove it and the same result. After about 20 minutes at cruising speed it started to cut out and would stay running if I pushed teh clutch in right away. I am ready to drag the damn thing to the river and push it in.
 

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Have you taken your fuel filter off and dumped it into a clean pan just to see what's in there other than fuel. There could be more water than the additive can remove.
 

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Oh man, that stinks.

One of the things we all love about these motors: once you get them going they stay going. When that doesn't work...

You have tried to giggle the key, while the truck is running, to get this to happen? I would do that, if you have not.

It is one of those times you wish you had a fuel pressure gauge.

I would be tempted to run a temporary fuel solenoid indicator light. Splice in a new wire right at the solenoid terminal; run the wire into the cab; connect it to a low-amp indicator bulb; add a ground to the lamp. Then, while you are driving at 70 and the thing stumbles you will know for sure the solenoid still has power.

Taking the guts out of the fuel solenoid makes sense to me after you do the indicator lamp.

You are running anti-gel fuel additive, right?

I assume you will need to wait for spring to drop it in the river.

Roy
 

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Yea, I'd definatly say gut the solinoid and just use the manual shut down lever for a while, that will tell you for sure if its electrical related or not.
 
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