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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
Alright so little update just bought a 1996 12v that had a blown head gasket and a failed fuel pickup pump. The guy had it torn down to the block and had a brand new rebuild kit pistons gasket and all. All for $1200. Thought this was a better deal so I decided to go for it. Was wondering if there’s anything I should do while I’m putting it back together. I’m going to fix the kdp and I do need to figure out how to set pump timing on that but I can do that. Wondering if there’s anything I should do while it’s apart and also need to start browsing trannys. Was thinking manual like the nv4500 but don’t want to break the bank going out and buying everything new. Have access to quite a few junkyards and marketplace was wondering what vehicles would have some good reliable trannys in them that fit the Cummins just want to find a vehicle so I can take everything from it like clutch bell housing cylinders bolts everything. I did some looking and to buy everything new was like almost 3500$ I would think if I can find a junkyard and have it rebuilt by a shop it would be a lot cheaper like $1000-1500$. Just posin I guess, let me know what y’all think. (Oh and the engine came with the p7100 ;$)
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You can buy adapters to put about any trans in you want. I think the zf5-42 diesel trans is the best, it doesn't have the gear spread like the nv4500. 1st gear is more like a 1st and not a granny gear. I got my adapter, flywheel, and clutch kit from DCS Conversions.

I would have a reputable injecton shop check the IP over just to be sure it's good. A failed fuel pump, are you talking about the LP? They very seldom fail unless they have around 300,000 miles on it. The OFV's fail and most think it's the LP that failed.

How many miles were on the engine, they will go close to a million miles before a rebuild is needed. One of my 12v's has over 400,000 miles on it and uses no oil and I wouldn't be afraid to go anywhere with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
You can buy adapters to put about any trans in you want. I think the zf5-42 diesel trans is the best, it doesn't have the gear spread like the nv4500. 1st gear is more like a 1st and not a granny gear. I got my adapter, flywheel, and clutch kit from DCS Conversions.

I would have a reputable injecton shop check the IP over just to be sure it's good. A failed fuel pump, are you talking about the LP? They very seldom fail unless they have around 300,000 miles on it. The OFV's fail and most think it's the LP that failed.

How many miles were on the engine, they will go close to a million miles before a rebuild is needed. One of my 12v's has over 400,000 miles on it and uses no oil and I wouldn't be afraid to go anywhere with it.
okay so the engine he said went out at 60,000 miles he said something happened with the fuel and it got some air in the lines he mentioned the pump but he said it went runaway for about 20seconds and then the head gasket blew and he then later just put a crate motor in it. He said he did this way back when he first bought the the truck. I will look around for that tranny and see what I can find. can provide more photos soon when I go up to the shop to disassemble the bottom end and pressure wash it. oh he said it had a bent rod and a damaged lifter too and then showed me and i saw no visible damage to any of the lower end so we will see when I open it up.
 

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okay so the engine he said went out at 60,000 miles he said something happened with the fuel and it got some air in the lines he mentioned the pump but he said it went runaway for about 20seconds and then the head gasket blew and he then later just put a crate motor in it. He said he did this way back when he first bought the the truck. I will look around for that tranny and see what I can find. can provide more photos soon when I go up to the shop to disassemble the bottom end and pressure wash it. oh he said it had a bent rod and a damaged lifter too and then showed me and i saw no visible damage to any of the lower end so we will see when I open it up.
They get air in the fuel from a bad supply line from the fuel tank, sounds like he didn't know much about these engines. Air in the fuel causes a hard start to a no start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I'm doing a bad job at explaining what he said I apologize. He seemed very knowledgeable about it and cars in general he had a shop and I walked in to see some blown hemis and two super birds under some blankets, was pretty cool. The story went as he had replaced something in the fuel line and had his buddy crack the injectors to bleed them out and it started and did the ol runaway and then what I said previously happened and when he tore it apart, the little pump that sits behind the p7100 was toast as well as the rod and lifter. He bought all the parts to rebuild it but he said he just didn't have time with all the projects he had. Either way I think the engine and a master rebuild kit is a steal for $1200. also I did some looking on that zf5 tranny and I didn't find anything close but I saw this Eaton fuller 5 speed pretty close and was wondering if you know anything about that.
 

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I think all the fuller 5spds are a 1:1 top gear and aren't built to bolt on a tcase. OD is optional on the fuller 6spds. With the right size tires, gear ratio, and a divorced tcase... may still be viable.

I like the diesel ZF5 too. I have scored a couple for $100-300.

Best nv4500 deals I have found are a whole truck. Sell a few key items (engine, rear end, few body parts) and you have your 5spd kit for peanuts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Alright broskis I found a zf5-47 transmission I believe. It’s in a 1997 f450 with a 7.3 in a u-pull it yard. The tag is kinda messed up so I’m not entirely sure if it is a zf5 or what and the transmission shifter is missing as well as the truck looks like something was dropped on it but the transmission looks untouched. The picture here is what I got of the tag plate. do you guys think it is a zf5 and if so do you think it’s worth the $160 to pull it out of the truck. I’m assuming all I gotta do it’s u bolt the pressure plate from the flywheel as well as the casing and the cross member and it should pop right out. Plus I get all the clutch materials and parking brake with it.
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A 1996 F450 would have a zf5 the zf5-47 is the heavier duty of the zf5's. You won't be able to use the flywheel you'll have to get a Cummins Conversion flywheel that has the pilot bearing for the zf5. $160.000 is a good price for it.

You should also get the driveshafts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
A 1996 F450 would have a zf5 the zf5-47 is the heavier duty of the zf5's. You won't be able to use the flywheel you'll have to get a Cummins Conversion flywheel that has the pilot bearing for the zf5. $160.000 is a good price for it.

You should also get the driveshafts.
A 1996 F450 would have a zf5 the zf5-47 is the heavier duty of the zf5's. You won't be able to use the flywheel you'll have to get a Cummins Conversion flywheel that has the pilot bearing for the zf5. $160.000 is a good price for it.

You should also get the driveshafts.
Do you reckon it would be hard at all for me to modify the flywheel I have with the cummins already? I have access to a cnc router if needed, multiple drill presses and just a lot of fabrication tools in general. Just asking because im assuming I also need to get a plate adapter for the trans to bolt to the cummins. was planning to take care of the plate on the router but just wondering.
 

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I run a dodge clutch on my zf6, spline are the same as a nv5600 or nv4500 with large input upgrade. Only thing I had to do is have a machine shop make me a oilite bronze pilot bearing to fit zf6 snout. Not sure if zf5 would be the same deal but maybe you can check the compatibility of clutches between zf5 and 6.
 

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I have a luk single mass conversion clutch for the ZF5. It's very similar to a stock luk 95 dodge/cummins clutch. I say focus on the adapter and pilot bearing.

One thing with with the ZF 47 version is the ratios aren't as close as the 42.
 
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I have a luk single mass conversion clutch for the ZF5. It's very similar to a stock luk 95 dodge/cummins clutch. I say focus on the adapter and pilot bearing.

One thing with with the ZF 47 version is the ratios aren't as close as the 42.
The difference in the ratio is why I went with the zf5-42, but the diesel trans is better then the gas transmission.

Somewhere on the internet is the size of the pilot bearing i'll have to see if I can find it again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
After working on the engine this weekend I came home to order some parts and stumbled across something that seems a bit too good to be true. A set of studs from "A-team performance" for 69.99$ idk if this is too crazy to avoid or what. The company has good reviews and the website says they are made of 8740 chromoly just like ARP studs. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't going crazy but I think ill give them a try. A-Team Performance 12-Point Cylinder Head Stud Kit For 89-98 Dodge Ram 2500 3500 Cummins 5.9L 12V. On another note got the block all torn down and painted and found that the crankshaft gear looks like it has sheared the alignment pin, don't know if this is a cause of the engine failure or a result but either way it needs to be replaced. I have a new gear but I couldn't get the old one off with my gear puller. I tried putting the puller on and heating the outside of the gear up with a torch but I got no where with that. Any ideas? Also, should I weld the new gear to the crank to prevent this from happening in the future, I see people doing this for high performance applications. Also would that be a tig or a mig operation because I really only have experience with mig, but could practice some tig for the job. Last thing, the pump is in unknown condition to me at least, is there a way I can check operation myself. Nearest shop I called wants 900$ just to take a look at it and see if anything is wrong. Guy I bought it from said it was working up until the engine blew so not too sure there. Will provide pictures of everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
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After working on the engine this weekend I came home to order some parts and stumbled across something that seems a bit too good to be true. A set of studs from "A-team performance" for 69.99$ idk if this is too crazy to avoid or what. The company has good reviews and the website says they are made of 8740 chromoly just like ARP studs. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't going crazy but I think ill give them a try. A-Team Performance 12-Point Cylinder Head Stud Kit For 89-98 Dodge Ram 2500 3500 Cummins 5.9L 12V. On another note got the block all torn down and painted and found that the crankshaft gear looks like it has sheared the alignment pin, don't know if this is a cause of the engine failure or a result but either way it needs to be replaced. I have a new gear but I couldn't get the old one off with my gear puller. I tried putting the puller on and heating the outside of the gear up with a torch but I got no where with that. Any ideas? Also, should I weld the new gear to the crank to prevent this from happening in the future, I see people doing this for high performance applications. Also would that be a tig or a mig operation because I really only have experience with mig, but could practice some tig for the job. Last thing, the pump is in unknown condition to me at least, is there a way I can check operation myself. Nearest shop I called wants 900$ just to take a look at it and see if anything is wrong. Guy I bought it from said it was working up until the engine blew so not too sure there. Will provide pictures of everything.
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
And also forgot to add that I went back and don't know how I missed this the first time but the cummins had an automatic before so it has a flex plate. that being said do y'all think it would be practical to adapt the zf5-47 tranny's flywheel to the cummins or get a cummins flywheel and adapt it to the transmission.
 

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Having that pump sit around dry would have me worried, particularly that open fuel inlet. Self life doesn't do well for p-pumps.
You can pull the rack plug to see if the rack moves freely but rack movement is going to be limited by the afc and governor, so it's not a 100% sure it's not going to stick kinda test.
Either way fill it up with clean diesel when you get a chance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Having that pump sit around dry would have me worried, particularly that open fuel inlet. Self life doesn't do well for p-pumps.
You can pull the rack plug to see if the rack moves freely but rack movement is going to be limited by the afc and governor, so it's not a 100% sure it's not going to stick kinda test.
Either way fill it up with clean diesel when you get a chance.
Yeah nevermind I was talking to the guy I bought the engine from and he said it had been sitting out for about 8 years. I think I'm going to buy some of the tools I need and rebuild it myself it doesn't seem that complicated more or less like rebuilding another tiny engine. Either way the $100 to bench test and calibrate the pump and my x amount of money spent on rebuilding it myself I'm sure will be less than $900+. Will get on that as soon as the rest of the engine is back together, will let you guys know of any other info I learn about it along the way.
 

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And also forgot to add that I went back and don't know how I missed this the first time but the cummins had an automatic before so it has a flex plate. that being said do y'all think it would be practical to adapt the zf5-47 tranny's flywheel to the cummins or get a cummins flywheel and adapt it to the transmission.
You have to use the Cummins flywheel so that it works with the zf adapter or your Powerstroke starter won't work to mesh with the ring gear teeth.
 
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Yeah nevermind I was talking to the guy I bought the engine from and he said it had been sitting out for about 8 years. I think I'm going to buy some of the tools I need and rebuild it myself it doesn't seem that complicated more or less like rebuilding another tiny engine. Either way the $100 to bench test and calibrate the pump and my x amount of money spent on rebuilding it myself I'm sure will be less than $900+. Will get on that as soon as the rest of the engine is back together, will let you guys know of any other info I learn about it along the way.
Idk ive taken apart a governor once, it was no easy task. Coming from someone that's rebuilt engines before. To take apart the plungers and barrels you need some specialty tools, that im unsure how to acquire. If you do find a way I would be genuinely interested.
 
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I will say though, what is the best way to get that crank gear off. All I've tried so far is a 3 tooth puller with a hand ratchet and an oxy torch to heat up the gear. I've seen some guys use an impact with a puller, a special puller made for the gear, flat out just using an angle grinder to cut it off, and a pipe wrench to spin it off. Any ideas or should I just go down the list until its off.
 
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