Well, I installed my cruise control actuator today! Here's how the install went. I wasn't complicated at all, but I figured I would take some pictures to do a write up......that way I can get some practice for my P-pump swap later.
This is the cruise actuator that I bought on ebay:
This is the battery tray that you need to remove to perfom this. There are 2 bolts on the side going into the fender, 2 nuts on the bottom of the tray and 2 more nuts that you have to reach from the bottom, looking up from the ground.
These are the 2 nuts that you have to reach from underneath:
Here is the connector for the battery temp sensor. If you are having too much trouble disconnecting it, you can slide it off of the clip by pushing it towards the fender. Then you might be able to get to it a little easier. Just don't for get to plug it back in, your charging and intake air heaters depend on it!
This is how it looks with the battery tray out. Notice the connector laying there on the fender, that's what plugs into the cruise actuator. Make sure that you get your actuator off of a truck of the same year of yours. If not, do some research to make sure that your connector will hook up. I know that my friend's 12 valve 2nd gen truck had a different style connector, but I don't know when Dodge changed connectors or how many times they did.
These are the mounting bosses that you'll use for mounting the actuator. You'll need to use something more like a license plate screw. Sorry that I don't have the size of the screws that I used. I just used what I had in my toolbox.
Here is the actuator mounted to the battery tray. Maybe you can do this without removing the battery tray, but I think at best it is going to be very tight.
This is the connector just before I pushed it all the way on and latched it.
There is a secondary latch on this type of connector. I took a picture of the ABS module connector to show a little easier. They're the same brand of connector (Framatome). Notice the red tab in the "unlocked" position.
When you hear the connector click by pushing it all the way together, you will be able to push the red tab inward to the connector. You will only be able to do the secondary latch when the connector is fully mated.
I routed the cable and vacuum hose between the charge air tube and the engine.
I removed one of the plugs on the vacuum manifold on the firewall.
And plugged in the vacuum line from the actuator.
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Here is the hole that the cable goes through.
Be sure to snap the cable into the hole. The hole isn't exactly square so be sure to pay attention to how the cable goes in.
The cable end attaches like so...
And snaps together like this. And you're done!
Now that I have all that done, I feel kinda silly to report that I haven't taken it for a drive yet. :hehe: It was getting late, my son and I hadn't had dinner yet and my wife is really sick (flu) so I needed to get back in the house to see how she's doing. Plus she can't take care of the dogs alone in this state. Hopefully I'll get a chance to try it tomorrow.