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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my oil pressure gauge will drop to zero after idling, so i shut if off. i waited a few minutes started it up again and had oil pressure. It will idle for a few minutes, then drop to zero again. if i give some throttle to about 2000 rpms, my gauge will start working again. i have did this a couple of times and the throttle makes the gauge start working again. i am thinking that it is the oil pressure sending sensor, but not sure. figured i would get on here and get a few opinions. any help would be greatly appriciated!!!:banghead:
 

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not being smart or anything but did u check the oil level?
 

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sounds like a plugged up pressure sender to me, or even a loose wire. pull the sender & clean it out really well, reinstall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yeah i checked oil level first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
plan on changing the oil pressure switch out next weekend when i have some time.
 

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im leaning towards a oil sending unit too if you got plenty of oil in it
 

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ive heard it said more than once that the OP gauge on our trucks doesnt get a true reading from a sender. it just guesses based on what the ECM is reading rpms at.
so it would be best to buy a new gauge and put the sender near the filter housing somewhere. im curious to see the difference
 

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i have the same problem but mine is only when its cold out (like now) i have noticed that if i plug the truck in i dont have any troubles at all. my pressure wouldnt come backup if i touched the throtle tho so it might be a sensor. i just learnd to plug the truck in when possible or plan on starting it a few times
 

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having the exact same issue, very curious as too an answer
 

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here ya go

The factory oil pressure sensor is located on the driver side of the block. it's nothing more than a 5 psi Hobbs switch. As long as it see's 5 psi, the oil pressure that you see on the dash is a "calculated" pressure by the ECM. It bases the oil pressure on the engine RPM and temperature and that's what's displayed on the dash.

If it doesn't see 5 psi, then it sets the MIL.

As you can see, it's not even close to the true pressures at the filter head.

The minimum spec for oil pressure is 10 psi at idle and the pressure should rise 10 psi for every 1000 RPM at a minimum


This is why I did the oil pressure gauge. Tells ya a little different story than that dummy gauge on the dash.

PSI at idle.....



PSI at 1000 RPM.....



PSI at 1500 RPM.....

thats from page 57 and 58 of this thread http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3...rts-discussion/286792-build-up-lots-pics.html
 

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ive heard it said more than once that the OP gauge on our trucks doesnt get a true reading from a sender. it just guesses based on what the ECM is reading rpms at.
so it would be best to buy a new gauge and put the sender near the filter housing somewhere. im curious to see the difference
Yep fake as all get out. The only time its "accurate" is at about 1200-1300 rpms on a warm motor.

i have the same problem but mine is only when its cold out (like now) i have noticed that if i plug the truck in i dont have any troubles at all. my pressure wouldnt come backup if i touched the throtle tho so it might be a sensor. i just learnd to plug the truck in when possible or plan on starting it a few times
What Amsoil system do you have? The dual remote's are known to cause low oil pressure indications.
 

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I have the dual remote amsoil filter on mine too and during these cold months when i go to start it once out of every 20 times itll start dingin at me and read zero oil psi. i just shut it off and start it back up and it comes up just fine, ive been wantin to put in an oil pressure gauge but im runnin out places to put em haha
 

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I have the dual remote amsoil filter on mine too and during these cold months when i go to start it once out of every 20 times itll start dingin at me and read zero oil psi. i just shut it off and start it back up and it comes up just fine, ive been wantin to put in an oil pressure gauge but im runnin out places to put em haha
I run amsoil in everything I own, but I wouldn't live with that oil psi issue at startup. The oil psi sender has to not see pressure for 30 seconds for you to get an indication in the cab, thats TOO long in my book.
 

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oh ya i agree, im slowly changin all the fluids in my truck to amsoil. im puttin the synchromesh manual transmission fluid in my G56 when i put my clutch in.
 

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oh ya i agree, im slowly changin all the fluids in my truck to amsoil. im puttin the synchromesh manual transmission fluid in my G56 when i put my clutch in.
Thats not the correct fluid for your G56, it takes ATF.
 

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the synchromesh was designed to replace ATF in manual transmissions where fluid required to withstand high pressure is not needed unlike an automatic, atleast thats what ive read about it
 

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the synchromesh was designed to replace ATF in manual transmissions where fluid required to withstand high pressure is not needed unlike an automatic, atleast thats what ive read about it
Where did you read that? Amsoil still specs ATF, and nothing on the MTF site suggests that. The specs on the fluids are quite different.
 

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......:popcorn:......
 

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i know its not "recomended" but i was searchin around about it and found a forum where a guy used MTF in a G56 and said he had greatly improved cold shifts and reduced noise, royal purple makes a similar product called synchrmax.
 
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