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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
6 days ago while I was in the mountains on a hunting trip, I started my truck And noticed some white smoke coming out of the tailpipe. This this went away after the engine was warmed up. 2 days later it happened again.When I got home, The tank was about half full, so I filled it up with 32 gallons of fuel and a good dose of injector cleaner. I then changed the fuel filter on my air dog pump. It had only been on there for 7000 miles but still, it has a new one now. The white smoke has since went away. However it is taking a little bit longer to crank when I start it.

This morning, when I got in the truck to start it I almost thought it wasn't going to start because it took so long to crank. I drove for about 30 miles and then parked it For the day.

When I got in the truck to come home, I cranked it But it wouldn't start. So I sat in the parking lot for about 30 minutes trying to figure things out. My new air dog 150 pump is still delivering fuel. I will need to look into my bully dog GT tuner to see if I can monitor fuel rail pressure. I'm not sure that It can. I tried cranking it a few more times, and and nothing happens. I cranked it so long that I would get a chime in the cluster telling me probably that I've been cranking too long without It's starting.

I then hitched a ride to a local Napa store and bought a can of starting fluid. Went back to the truck, and sprayed some in the intake And after that it started. When I got at home and parked in the driveway, I turned it off and now I am back to it not starting again.

It seems that every time hunting season rolls around, something new pops up and I have to drive a different vehicle into the hills until the truck gets resolved.

I've got a 197000 miles on it and I don't think the injectors have ever been changed. It's been pointed out to me that that might not be the problem though.

If anyone can help me out with this, I would really appreciate it. Thank you
 

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i think you should try the atf in the oem bowl thing... bcrank it to fill the rail and injectors and let it sit.

with what i know now, that would be my first move remember atf left over nite in the last set if injectors cleared the problem i had, worth a shot and shouldnt hurt anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So when I installed the AirDog this spring, I bypassed the fuel bowl. I guess what I will do is fill up that filter with ATF and crank it till I think it made it to the injectors. I think it will do the same thing.
 

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2006 2500 4x4, spinny wooshy thing, bigger sticks, toothpick trans, wallet weight reduction mod.
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That’ll be a lot of cranking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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2006 2500 4x4, spinny wooshy thing, bigger sticks, toothpick trans, wallet weight reduction mod.
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On second thought you may be correct. Heck anything is worth a try at this point.
 

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should only need to bump the starter and leave key on, pump should stay on for 30 seconds, that would reprime it to the CP3, then crank. May need to do that 2x before cranking it.
 

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Yep. I was thinking it would only be at the rate used for running the engine. I wasn't thinking about it just flowing full pressure up to the CP3 and then injectors. You right, dawg. You right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I will try this when I get home from work this morning. Did a lot of reading on my nightshift. Could it be a pressure relief valve not working properly?
 

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Not likely, would still fire but not be able to build higher pressures.

Do this for me next time your in front of it... turn the key on and listen for the CP3 click... I am curious. When I had my no-start, my walbro started shorting out which pulled the power down to the FCA. little bit of vibration on the frame (from hood opening & closing) was enough to clear the short... until it didnt. while debugging it, as soon as I pulled power off the pump, clicking @ the cp3 returned and I knew it would fire. what I wish I'd done was to disconnect the pump and see if the cp3 still has enough pull to run the truck with the pump being dead. Last time I had an issue there, back at 200~212k iirc, truck failed to start because of lack of prime. no pump, no prime, no start.

Last year iirc I measured the rail pressure on a no-start attempt and was only getting 500 psi. let me go find the thread and review it...


not sure I documented the 500 psi here... I am pretty sure I have a log file at home, but that doesnt help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Clicking at the cp3 starts when the key is turned on. Stays clicking for 2 minutes.

The Airdog is working great. It fills up a quart container in about 3 seconds.

I unplugged the fca and no change. Plugged it back in, no change. Still won't start. I'm starting to think it's not injectors because I can't imagine them ALL going out at the same time to not start.

It still starts and runs fine with a shot of starting fluid though. Once. -- If I shut it off after trying that, it goes back to not firing again.
 

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Remember this pic... rail pressure at startup.




Are you able to read the rail pressure at all? IIRC there is a minimum pressure needed to trigger the ECU to fire them. You may not be reaching that point or the rail pressure sensor is having an issue. May want to just yank it and clean it with brake cleaner. I could see debris finding its way into its monitoring port and plugging it up. (soaking it in ATF is also a way to clean it.) I swapped mine with a new bosch from Napa for $110 iirc, did nothing for my problem but with 430K miles on it, had no issues swapping it.
 
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... I'm starting to think it's not injectors because I can't imagine them ALL going out at the same time to not start.

It still starts and runs fine with a shot of starting fluid though. Once. -- If I shut it off after trying that, it goes back to not firing again.

Since it's a COMMON rail (single rail) anything connected to the rail can reduce the fuel rail pressure enough to cause a no start.
Including a single injector. Including a single connector tube, etc.
Capping each injector line, one at a time (eliminating that injector), can determine if a single injector is bleeding off rail pressure.

Any DTC's? Perhaps you have already checked.

As Steve mentioned, a rail fuel pressure gauge is required to monitor rail pressure while cranking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You're right. Thank you for stating the obvious about it being a common rail system. Sometimes it takes someone to do that for me to fully grasp that. I'm not being sarcastic here. That makes sense to me now. There have been no trouble codes since this has all started.

For Steve, no I cannot read real pressure. I'm going to talk with my wife today and we're going to start looking at getting something to read that with. Do you have any suggestions? In the recent past I have started looking at maybe the smarty junior. I think Trynto has one of those and said that he could read the things in his truck that I can't. Is there a better option?

I am going to look into the rail pressure sensor as well. I did take a bunch of connectors apart clean them and plug them back in to no Avail. Not sure if I got that one, I will check. Understanding more fully the common rail Now, how does one go about capping off each injector individually? I suppose I could do some reading on the forum, but maybe this will put the information into this discussion for somebody's future use as well. Thanks again guys, I really appreciate it.
 

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look into alpha obd (?) for android... that and or a cheap used cell phone plus a scantool.net MX unit will cover it. I am still using an old HTC M7 for gauges.

That (phone, app & scantool mx) will at least get you the ability to see what the senors are seeing.
 
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^^ I totally agree.

At this point everyone with an Android phone and a 2006+ RAM should spend the US$100 or so for the appropriate Blue tooth OBDII adapter and the AlphaOBD app.


Jbowhunter, your signature shows a Bully Dog GT. Isn't that an OBDII display/programmer?

If yes, have you set the ECM back to stock?
Will the Bully Dog GT show fuel rail pressure?



Here is a link to the 2003-07 5.9L fuel rail block off cap:

 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Isn't that an OBDII display/programmer?
It is. Kind of. It doesn't show psi numbers though. I use that thing because it does show temperature values and it has a pyro for egt's. It will read and clear dtc's. I don't think it will read rail pressure and a lot of other things the other scanners will read.

I have not Uninstalled it to take it to stock. I'm under the impression that if I leave it in the stock mode in the programmer, it's the same as reseting the ECM to stock. Except with the benefit of reading temp. values.
 

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Get it started with starting fluid and warm to operating temp. Basically if it starts and runs on starting fluid it is a leak in the HP fuel system. Could be rail PRV, injectors, or loose cross over tubes.

If it will continue to start correctly once warm same thing, check all of the obvious culprits.
 

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Get it started with starting fluid and warm to operating temp. Basically if it starts and runs on starting fluid it is a leak in the HP fuel system. Could be rail PRV, injectors, or loose cross over tubes.

If it will continue to start correctly once warm same thing, check all of the obvious culprits.
It continues to fail to start when warm (iirc)...

Your saying a bad prv can bleed enough to prevent a no-start?
 

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Yep, along with a cracked injector, cracked or loose cross over tube, a stuck FCA, a failing COV on the CP-3, or a failing lift pump. Now you have to go down thru the troubleshooting tree to see what it could be.
 
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