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Discussion Starter #1
3rd gen 5.9 CR CP3. When I go to start the truck my high lift pump pulsates to the same cadence as my wait to start and check engine light, also my red security light between the spedo and temp gauge is flashing. I have been trouble shooting for the past few weeks an over charge issue to both batteries. 14.8-15.6 after grid plate has finished cycling. In the process I had both batteries disconnected for a few days. While hooking the batteries back up I forgot to hook up my AirDog High Lift and tried to turn the truck over. when I realized my mistake I went back and hooked it up and now the AirDog and my wait to start (grid plate) light pulse together and the check engine light and Security light flash while cranking. I was able to pull up a P2609 code by cycling the key 3 times and some funky chassis code when I do the trip button and ignition on test. I have made sure the filter and separator are primed on the lift pump and even made sure the line was primed to the CP3 IP also fuel is flowing back to the tank via the return line. my lift pump used to run till pressurized then quit till I cranked over the engine. now it just pulses. I'm not sure if it is a security system issue, or fuel system issue. I can not link to the OBD2 system with my cheap reader. it used to read the codes now nothing. video at
 

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I would disconnect batteries for few minutes restart communication bus . Take that time to check batteries/ grid heater cables/connections including grounds with voltmeter for .2 volts or more voltage drop, could have internal wiring issue.
See if code comes back if so go thru checks for P2609
Possible Causes
INTAKE AIR HEATER OPEN
INTAKE AIR HEATER GROUND OPEN
OPEN BATTERY CABLE FROM INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY
BATTERY CABLE OPEN
#1 INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY
#2 INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY
INTERMITTENT CONDITION

Diagnostic Test
1. INTAKE AIR HEATER OPEN
Measure the resistance between the intake air heater supply and ground terminal on each intake air heater.
Is the resistance less than 10 Ohms?
Yes >> Go To 2
No >> Replace the open Intake Air Heater.
Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONIC
CONTROL MODULES/ENGINE CONTROL MODULE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)

2. INTAKE AIR HEATER GROUND OPEN
Measure the resistance of the intake air heater ground circuit between the intake air heater terminal and the intake
manifold cover ground connection.
NOTE: The intake air heater circuit is grounded through a conductive gasket on the top and bottom of the
air heater (grey colored gaskets).
Is the resistance less than 10 Ohms?
Yes >> Go To 3
No >> Repair the open Intake Air heater ground or replace both heater gaskets with the proper conductive
gaskets..
Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONIC
CONTROL MODULES/ENGINE CONTROL MODULE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)

3. OPEN BATTERY CABLE FROM INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY
Measure the resistance of the battery cable between the intake air heater and the intake air heater relay for both
intake air heaters.
Is the resistance less than 10 Ohms?
Yes >> Go To 4
No >> Repair The open or high resistance battery cable from the intake heater relay to heater.
Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONIC
CONTROL MODULES/ENGINE CONTROL MODULE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)


4. BATTERY CABLE OPEN
Measure the resistance of the battery cable between the battery and the intake air heater relay for both relays.
Is the resistance less than 10 Ohms?
Yes >> Go To 5
No >> Replace the battery cable from the battery to the Intake Air Heater Relay.
Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONIC
CONTROL MODULES/ENGINE CONTROL MODULE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)

5. #1 INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY
Disconnect the #1 intake air heater relay signal wire.
Connect a jumper wire from the signal terminal of the #1 intake air heater relay to battery positive.
Did the relay click when 12 volts was applied?
Yes >> Go To 6
No >> Replace #1 Intake Air Heater Relay.
Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONIC
CONTROL MODULES/ENGINE CONTROL MODULE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)

6. #2 INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY
Disconnect the #2 intake air heater relay signal wire.
Connect a jumper wire from the signal terminal of the #2 intake air heater relay to battery positive.
Did the relay click when 12 volts was applied?
Yes >> Refer to the INTERMITTENT CONDITION Symptom (Diagnostic Procedure).
No >> Replace #2 Intake Air Heater Relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you, I will get my voltmeter out in the AM and start checking connections.
 

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Did your passenger side battery boil over or go kaput?
Check the crossover negative - black cable between the 2 batts for any corrosion under the insulation or connectors. Replace if not perfect. Check for voltage drop across it while cranking motor, should be less than 0.5v or a goner.
These go, they kill your batts from overcharging and electronics from high voltage or current spikes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Both batteries are showing the over voltage not just the Battery connected to the alternator and Grid Heater relay on the passenger side. first thing I need to do is get it started and find out why the lift pump and wait to start light are pulsing rather than just running till the 17 PSI is achieved and then kicking back in once I turn the key into crank position. Batteries are brand new took them out and tested them at work.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
that is my air dog you hear pulsing in the back ground. sorry for the door chime but I wanted to hear the Lift pump.
 

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I’d doublecheck that when you reconnected the Airdog, you hooked it to ignition hot, and not something tied to the intake grid. I’d also doublecheck the wires to the alternator and solenoid. I suspect there is something green there and you don’t realize it. After that, check the crossover and the sensor under the drivers side battery.


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Discussion Starter #10
I’d doublecheck that when you reconnected the Airdog, you hooked it to ignition hot, and not something tied to the intake grid. I’d also doublecheck the wires to the alternator and solenoid. I suspect there is something green there and you don’t realize it. After that, check the crossover and the sensor under the drivers side battery.


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Will check this out this weekend, I work nights.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
working on truck now. will report back findings in a few hours. thank you all for your input.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I removed every engine and chassis ground cleaned them and tested them .3ohm or less on all wires. did the same to the positive wires except for the one going to the starter as the motor cranks.
I rewired the AirDog directly to the battery. reattached both batteries after charging them while I did diagnostic work checked the grid heater and wires all good. same exact issue disco lights on dash and no start. I went and removed the signal wires to the grid heater same thing just no wait to start light flashing. so I removed wire from relay to battery, same issue. I went ahead and removed the relay on the AirDog, same thing just no pump trying to run to the disco beat. put relay back in, removed hot wire to the AirDog. relay clicking to the disco beat but no pump trying to run to the beat. I'm at a loss for what is going on that the system is pulsing like it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I’d doublecheck that when you reconnected the Airdog, you hooked it to ignition hot, and not something tied to the intake grid. I’d also doublecheck the wires to the alternator and solenoid. I suspect there is something green there and you don’t realize it. After that, check the crossover and the sensor under the drivers side battery.


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I had removed the sensor to try and test it and it does not feel or look like it has plugged back in properly, would tat cause the disco effect or just the charging issue?
 

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fuses all good ?
Make sure battery good 12.6v++ tested separately , cables good, using V drop test = less then .2 volts drop, resistance test will not show fault on large cables.
Still have P2609?
What was other code?
Try bypass ignition switch with key on, jump 12 volts to starter relay to rule out cluster/communication/ ignition switch issue.
 

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I’d doublecheck that when you reconnected the Airdog, you hooked it to ignition hot, and not something tied to the intake grid. I’d also doublecheck the wires to the alternator and solenoid. I suspect there is something green there and you don’t realize it. After that, check the crossover and the sensor under the drivers side battery.


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I suspect the overcharging could be a poor connection issue. They charge to the passenger side, but monitor voltage and temp on the drivers side. That was why everybody was pointing out the crossover cable. But there’s the potential for the wire that excites the field windings in the alternator to be poor or one of the ones from the drivers side battery to the ECM which controls the field windings.
The fuel pump may just be accelerating and decelerating based on AVILABLE voltage due to the drain from the grid heater- I’m not sure on that one. You do see the headlights dim and heater slow down when it cycles. The P2609 code may be nothing. The computer is looking for a voltage drop every time it activates the grid heater. So it’s charging hard and not seeing a voltage drop when the grid cuts in- likely related but sometimes the engine goes to fast idle at the same time as the grid cuts in and sets that code off too. But it seems like 12 volts solid is leaking over to the field wire on the alternator.
The ECM, instrument cluster, TIPM and ABS module are all programmed with serial numbers. Any mismatch sets off lights and created a no start condition. I’ve seen it happen when somebody has reflashed with EFILive and goofed the serial #. They end up making a trip to the dealer. Some do seem to be able to correct that condition with a Smarty. That’s all programmed to only accept certain key frequencies as well, a dead battery in one of those gives a no-start condition. If you have a second ignition key, try that. I DON’T THINK (but not 100% sure) that charging or the grid heater go through the TIPM. Otherwise sometimes bugs do chase back to it. I’m wondering if a critical serial # stored in ram in a module could have been lost with a power drain- that should be extremely unlikely.


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well this afternoon I bought the programming for another scanner I had bought an Autel HT200 I plugged it in the OBDII port and downloaded the software and firmware for the unit. when it told me to turn on the ign I did and the pulsing has stopped but the security light keeps flashing and the AirDog now runs non stop and is feeding back to the fuel tank. I did get some codes from it. a U0100 Lost com with ECM/PCM/ C1015 Rt Front wheel speed sensor hence my ABS light that has been on for 4 years, C2202 Original Vin Mismatch/missing C2206 Vehicle congiguration mismatch. that was after I cleared codes with the Autel and re-scanned. looks like a trip to the stealrship on a trailer. Any thoughts I have a Bully Dog GT that was programmed to the truck at one point but the face of it broke. but I had a security issue one day out of the blue and after a few days I tried reverting the truck back to stock and it fixed the security issue. now I have to see if I can find it and find a way to reflash again back to stock so it might re program my vin back in.
 

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One last thing you could try is taking the grounds off for a minute, then put them back on. Turn key on for 15 seconds or so BUT NOT TO START POSITION. Then turn the ignition back off. Then give it a try and see if everything is good to go. That’s the base procedure for a TIPM reset (IF that is the mismatch). Sometimes the capacitors drain apparently. No expense in trying it.


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Sounds like some sort of communication issue, try pull fuses to different modules see if bus comes back up.
If not some how vin/security info got messed up, probably cheaper to send ECM out to be checked.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
after disconnecting batteries and doing the hold them together thing I reattached cables to batteries and back to same original disco problem. pulled the harnesses off the anti lock brake module and the ECU and cleaned with electrical contact cleaner and re assembled. checked every fuse is the TIPM and they are all good. how do I manually check the OBD II port and the ecu by back probing the wires to see if it is powered up and if it is communicating?
 
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