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I don't think rephasing the cp3 is a question of gear lash causing a tick or knock. As others have said that gear will be loaded the entire time as there is never a change in direction. Also if it was gear lash then there wouldn't be any reason to turn the engine to a different point, because if you take the gear of the cp3 that has no key way, only a tapered shaft, then all you would have to do to change the lash and rotate the cp3 gear while its loose until it makes contact with the gear that drives it. I strongly believe the rephasing causes a change in noise coming from the engine because of the relationship between the engine pistons position and the cp3 pistons position and fuel pressure difference in the rail due to injection events and what stroke the cp3 pistons are on, whether a pressurizing stroke or a non pressure stroke.
 

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I know this post is old but could anyone tell me which way to turn the engine when cp3 pump is loose?
It doesn't really matter as long as you pick a direction and stick with it. You just need to turn the crank like 15-20 degrees. If that doesn't do it, then move it another 15-20 degrees again. Just use a paint marker, grease pencil, or crayon to mark the balancer to make it easier to track how much you move it. I had to move it twice to find the sweet spot.

-Muzzy
 

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This thread has me wanting to try this.... I have new injectors coming this week which I will probably put in regardless as they are +60's from Industrial Injection just for peace of mind on my new-to-me '05 2500. But, if the noise I'm hearing isn't an injector, and rather the pump due to this phasing issue, I will definitely give it a shot.

Here's a video of the engine running, warmed up, at idle. Is this the sound people have been hearing and fixing with rephasing the CP3? Thanks!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/V4D6hqzvvzohuMp87
 

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Have you ever replaced or removed your CP3? If it has never been serviced or removed, I can't see how the phase would change. However, the sound is similar to what I had.

-Muzzy
 

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Have you ever replaced or removed your CP3? If it has never been serviced or removed, I can't see how the phase would change. However, the sound is similar to what I had.

-Muzzy
Truck is new to me so I have no clue. But I guess it could have been like that since the truck was new if the phase was off when they assembled it at the factory. Doesn't sound like they put any thought in to phasing/timing since it doesn't really matter in the big picture.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

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I have never posted to this Forum but thought I should give my results on this topic. This spring I purchase a 2005.5 3500 truck with 200K that was in need of major engine repairs. After disassembly it was decided to replace the long block (too much damage). For the first 2000 miles the truck ran good but had this annoying tick which would not go away. I reused the original CP3 and going by the service information was not aware of any issues that could occur from the pump gear index. The truck also had a vibration in the engine that I attributed to the 5" exhaust that was on the truck. after installing an FTE resonator the droan was gone but the buzz in the seat of your pants was still there. Yesterday I pulled the truck in the shop and performed the procedure on the pump gear. The results were night and day, no tick, no vibration, smoother acceleration. If the factory would put out some service information on this it would have been helpful to a first time diesel owner. After reading all the post in this thread I can understand why some people had reservations on how it would help but believe me it works!
 

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Does the noise people hear caused by the CP3 pump actually come from the pump area? I have that sound but I do not hear the sound down at the pump. Sound is coming from top side.
 

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Check the fuel lines coming off of the fuel rail. If one of those clamps comes loose, it will tick loudly
 

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Check the fuel lines coming off of the fuel rail. If one of those clamps comes loose, it will tick loudly
It has ticked/knocked after new injectors installed. I think I will try this tomorrow...
 

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Hello all. Brand new here.
I came across this thread in help of finding a solution for my ‘03 Cummins. It runs great, lots of power, bone stock but I have an arbitrary rattle at low idle. Only when warmed up, never when cold. I did have a Superchips that came with it but I sold it. It did make a difference when it was tuned and when it wasn’t so timing? I want to try the CP3 trick too. i wish I knew how to post before and after.
 

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So this is an old thread but it became relevant for me when my 6.7 started to knock. At first I thought it was a rod but it didn't affect performance and you couldn't hear anything knck when turning the motor by hand.

It was accompanied by a rotating metallic noise when coasting and minimal RPM's. The dealer said it was just a diesel thing and it wasn't a problem.

Last night I read this post and did the job. Took an hour and had to do it 3 times before I found the right spot. In all I rotated the engine 55 degrees to end the noise from the CP3.

I know there is some disagreement and skepticism but the gentleman who start r d this thread really knows what he is talking about and it works. Thank you all for your input.

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I have been having (as many others have) an annoying engine knock. Mine occured only at idle and only after the engine warmed up. I read on another site that there has been success in getting rid of the noise by retiming the cp3. I tried it and I am happy to say it seems to work. :woot:

First off there are different causes for an engine knock, mine was a metallic sounding knock from the front left side of the engine. To change the timing is pretty simple. First remove the belt from in front of the access hole on the timing cover in front of the CP3. This will give you access to the nut that locks the timing gear to the CP3. Remove the nut and washer behind it(being carefull not to drop either inside, doing so will require much more work). Next you need a puller, steering wheel puller or small T bar will work to pull the gear loose from the CP3. Depending on how much dexterity you have you may or may not need to remove the upper radiator hose and bracket under it, in order to attach the puller to the gear. The fan is in the way of a standard length pusher bolt so I cut mine off, if you dont want to do that you can remove the fan. With puller installed and pusher bolt in place remove the gear from the cp3. The gear is a taper fit with no key way, so once the gear is loose all you have to do is rotate the engine to retime the cp3 in relation to the engine. I did mine twice before I found the magic spot, but it ended up about 60 degrees from where it was. Once you have rotated the engine re-install the washer and nut and torque to 77ftlbs(I used a ratchet on a dampener bolt to keep the engine from turning). Pictures are available in the service manual and will give you a good idea what is involved. It took me about 30 minutes to perform this procedure and I'm happy with the results.

Why does it work, well it seems that the cp3 being a piston pump behaves just like an engine, it takes force to push the piston on a compression stroke, and then after TDC it tries to spin faster(or easier) until the next compression stroke. When the engine is doing its compression stroke at the same time the CP3 is on its return stroke it can cause the gear teeth driving the cp3 to loosen and then slap back into contact causing noise. :CRY:
What is the best way to manually rotate the engine? I just bought my 05 dodge 5.9 cummins, has less than 700 miles on the motor. Had to fix a few things, and a knock appeared. Fits all of the symptoms and the videos I have listened too, sounds exactly the same. No loss of power, just an annoying knock. Thinking it had something to do with removing the tuner/phasing. Tuner had bare wires on it. I have successfully removed the gear, just need to figure out the best way to manually turn the engine. Thank you!!
 

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What is the best way to manually rotate the engine? I just bought my 05 dodge 5.9 cummins, has less than 700 miles on the motor. Had to fix a few things, and a knock appeared. Fits all of the symptoms and the videos I have listened too, sounds exactly the same. No loss of power, just an annoying knock. Thinking it had something to do with removing the tuner/phasing. Tuner had bare wires on it. I have successfully removed the gear, just need to figure out the best way to manually turn the engine. Thank you!!
I'm lazy and hate to keep moving when I need to turn it over from above. So I use the fan clutch removal wrench to turn the fan clutch pulley.

The "correct" way is the barring tool on the flywheel through the access panel on the passenger side.

You can also use the alternator if yours has a nut. Some don't and that isn't possible.
 
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