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Cooler Tubz Rock

14K views 33 replies 11 participants last post by  gotacummins 
#1 ·
I put a set of Tim's tubz on my ole ranch truck as she does a fair bit of towing and a few more mpg can't hurt. I am very pleased with the results. The truck has more power now and with a half turn of the fuel screw a lot more. It only smokes a little on initial spool up and sure makes the drivetrain growl if I get into it too much below 1500 rpm. I have to get a fan clutch back in my truck as the fan is always on and really sucks the hp. My recommendation is to get a set of tubz if you don't have one already. Now I have some TORQUE. Not quite as much as my '03 but enough for the NV4500 and Dana 70 I am sure.
 
#2 · (Edited)
I'll be dynoing in a couple of weeks. I am thinking about throwing my set of tubes on between pulls to see what the difference is between a 24 valve air horn and Tim's tubes.

I was talking to him about that yesterday at the Indy diesel nat's and he is wanting to see the results also. :D

I tried to dyno yesterday. The dyno they had there I couldn't run dualls on. I also didn't have enough factory lugs nuts with me to take off my outer tires. The one I'll be at in a couple of weeks I can run duals on.
 
#5 ·
I'm happy with mine great throttle response and an increase in fuel mileage almost 1 mpg
 
#6 · (Edited)
Dustin the cooltubz are a 3" stainless tube assy made to replace the stock air horn. If you have a 1st gen that is a 2.5" air horn and intake tube.

The stock air horns on all three generations of Dodges are restrictive to some extent. The late 2nd gen 24 valve is the best air horn in reguards to air flow. The 1st gen and the 3rd gens have the most restrictive air horns.

This first pic shows the difference between a 1st gen air horn and a 2nd gen 24 valve air horn. Your seeing the business end where it goes into the engine. The left side is the 1st gen air horn.

The second pic is a cooltubz. There is one other section to connect to the IC that isn't shown. You can also get them polished. I will paint mine.

You don't say what year you have. So here is a link that shows all the ones he makes.


1stGen.org :: View topic - Hey guys new intake In R &d on the Cummins forum






 
#19 ·
The stock air horns on all three generations of Dodges are restrictive to some extent. The late 2nd gen 24 valve is the best air horn in reguards to air flow. The 1st gen and the 3rd gens have the most restrictive air horns.
eBay Motors: 01 Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel INTAKE MANIFOLD (item 140121110151 end time Jul-15-08 14:50:19 PDT)
Phillip - does your 24 valve intake look like this one?

This one is a 3rd gen by description (says it's off an '01), but I don't see how these differ from the 2nd gen intakes. Do the 2nd gen have a larger opening where they bolt to the motor, or just a more restrictive air path?
 
#8 ·
call Tim at 419-594-2542 i got mine for 160.00 but he said due to metal costs he was going to have a price increase, but it is still great bang for the bucks
 
#10 ·
It probably is he said he was out of Ohio but I don't know for sure you could call The # and ask I just bought an intake not the whole tube kit listed but it looks great everyone says great things about them when I was checking on them
 
#12 ·
Ok guy's I thought I would throw an update on the cool tubz.

I dyno'd last weekend. I made two pulls with the 24 valve air horn on the truck. Then I changed to a set of cooltubz's and made two more pulls. The truck was on the dyno during the swap so time down was about 15 minutes.

The cooltubz and the 24 valve air horn both made the same HP and torque. Or as much as my stock converter would let by it. The peak torque came in a little sooner with the cooltubz compared to the 24 valve air horn. The peak HP came in a little later than the 24 valve air horn. On the dyno it gained 1 PSI of boost with the cooltubz. But on the road I see no difference on the boost.

Thats about all the testing I can do till I get a better trans in the truck. My converter hates those 6X.018 injectors.:CRY:
 
#15 ·
So what did you pull on the rollers Philip?
It wasn't much. It was blowing threw the converter bad.

163/509

Peak torque came in at 1650 RPM, HP came in at 2000 RPM

We dyno'd in 3rd also. He did one pull in OD and decided he didn't want to spin the rollers at 135 MPH for a pull. :lol3:
 
#16 ·
Would you say the 24v horn is worth the time to put on? Or would you wait, and spend it on the coolertubz? I can get the air horn a whole lot cheaper then the tubes so...
DS79
 
#17 · (Edited)
On the roller the Hp was the same. I have driven with the cooltubz on for 500 miles or so. The 24 valve intake I have 1k or so. I see no performance difference between the two.

The EGT's at WOT are the same. I do see a little difference in the cruise speed EGt's. The 24 valve intake is a little lower temp than the cooltubz. Midrange perfromance is real close between the to. By the seat of the pants meter the cooltubs seen to feel better.

I guess it comes down to. Do you want the look of the cooltubz's or something a little more stealth like the 24 valve air horn. Unless someone knows what the orginal air horn looks like they would be hard to tell it has been changed if everything is painted up.
 
#20 ·
That is a late 2nd gen. The 3rd gens came out in 2003. That is the same air horn I had installed. I plan on putting it back on.

I'll be switching to a hydro boost setup later on this summer. I hope. I don't think the setup will clear the 24 valve air horn. If it doesn't then the cooltubz go back on. They were modded to clear a hydro boost setup.
 
#21 ·
Good to know. I scored an intake just like that for $23 shipped to my door off eBay. I figured for the price I couldn't beat it, but I got a little nervous when you said the 3rd gen's were more restrictive seeing as I thought that was a 3rd gen.

Getting a bit off topic now, but what all do you see being involved in the hydroboost? I had planned to run one when I dump the cummins in the ford, but I haven't looked into it much yet
 
#22 · (Edited)
I'll be using a unit off a 2001, 2500 CTD truck. Most guy's make a new mounting plate and cut down the push rod as needed to clear the stock air horn. The problem I see with that is if your out on the road and loose the hydro boost. Most shops do not modify brake componets. So your going to be in a tight place trying to get the truck back up and running with not enough tools to do the job most likely. BTW I have been 2k miles from home with this truck before. So on road repairs are always a concern.

To mount a stock hydroboost setup you will need to drill two new mounting holes. The two holes on the vac booster to the passenger side of the truck are in the correct place. The rubber plug on the hydro boost push rod is to small for the hole for the vac booster push rod. So a plate needs to be made to allow the plug something to seal against. When I get closer to the install I can give out spec's for the plate. The lines from our master cylinder and the hydro boost master cylinder are the same. At least on drum rear brakes on the 2001. My brother in law has a 2001 so I looked it over good.

The power steering pump needs two returns in it. But most guys just T the one return we have.

The hydro boost setup measures 18.25" from the firewall to the end of the master cylinder. It will not clear a stock 1st gen air horn. I won't know for sure on the 24 valve till I try the swap. It is very close. Tim can mod a set of cooltubz's to clear the hydro boost. Just tell him if you order a set to make them to clear a hydro boost. He knows the pattern needed.
 
#24 ·
Most of the time its a junkyard item or ebay. The bad thing on the local junkyard they will want a core most of the time. Ebay you don't need a core. Redliner is the biggest CTD parts dealer on used parts. His hydro boost setups are cheaper than most. He removes the master cylinder and sells it seperate. I picked up my hydro boost for $25 minus the master cylinder. I'll pick up a new master cylinder and eat the core price.


A hydro boost does help not because its hyd boost. The hydro boost master cylinders for the later CTD trucks have a larger bore master cylinder. That is where the better braking comes in. You have more fluid flow to work the brakes harder. Our master cylinders are border line on bore size.

Here is a pic of my hydro boost mocked up on my replacement cab.

 
#27 · (Edited)
bobdodge you might want to look inside the air horn. The outside and mountings look the same. Look right inside the bolt down area real close. The 3rd gen 24 valve common rail air horn narrows down about 30% around the mounting bosses for the long bolts. Here is a pic of the inside of the business end of the 24 valve 2nd gen intake. If you can post a pic of a common rail intake in the same position it would be nice. If not I'll get a pic from a friend that has one.

BTW I'll be doing some die grinder work before this one goes back on. :D





The hydro boost hooks to the power steering pump. Then it feeds fluid to the steering box. The hydro boost has a return line and so does the steering box.
 
#29 ·
Most of the die grinder work will be smoothing the side walls down. They are real rough as you can see in the pic. I am going to work that short side radis over a little.
 
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