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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got new radiator and hoses and a new cap truck does not run hot it warms up expands the coolant into expansion tank but won’t suck it back to radiator after it cools down drive it again and it just puts more into the expansion tank til it overflows spraying coolant every where am I in Big trouble?
 

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Was it doing that before you changed the radiator and hoses?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No it was not doing it before I had a bad freeze plug Mechanic changed and he changed radiator oil looks good not milky and not over full take oil cap off engine running it has a slight haze comes out also a slight haze from blowby tube underneath Mechanic said it was ok not bad I thought maybe coolant needed to be burped maybe had air pocket
 

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Since it wasn't like that before i'd say try getting the air out it could be that it has trapped air.
 

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I've changed radiators in at least 3 trucks and have replaced coolant dozens of times in multiple 12v Cummins and I've never had trapped air or needed to burb anything.

I've always just filled the radiator to the top and overflow bottle. Maybe added a quart of coolant a week later while the slightest bit if air purged itself out.

Truck was probably filled with the engine running or the jiggle pin could be stuck closed I guess but I doubt that.
 
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It's not that hard to rule out for trapped air and doesn't cost a cent so it's a easy first step.
 
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I have always put a venting system in the top of the head for the sole reason of getting all the air out of the engines cooling system. Granted I am running a P-pump 24 valve platform (can't remember a 12 valve head that detailed honestly) but on this engine I took out one of the plugs on the exhaust side and put in a 1" nipple with a ball valve on top. When putting coolant back in after a project I open the ball valve and stop adding coolant once coolant starts coming out of it. Vents air out of the highest point of the engine and eliminates the air pocket situation. Have done this on multiple engines
 

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Second gen 12v engines have a line from the stat housing to a one way check valve in the cylinder head. Check that it’s in working order. It’s purpose is to bleed the engine of air while refilling the system.
No added procedure needed, just keep an eye on the overflow reservoir level after a couple hot/cold cycles.
 

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Leak somewhere, either in the system or in the return hose from the overflow. Maybe wrong cap. Something allowing air to be sucked back in somewhere, similar to the fuel system. Any drip on ground when parking after a heat up run?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update so the truck has not been messed with or started in at least 14 hrs I popped the hood I was going to remove the radiator cap as I raise the red lever on the cap coolant starts blowing out of reservoir there is definitely something going on in or with this new radiator my intention was to top off radiator and leave the cap off start it and look for air bubbles is it real expensive to over haul those older 12 valve if it is head gasket I might would have it completely rebuilt what do y’all think now?
 

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If it just needs a head gasket why overhaul it, these engines will go a million miles before it needs a overhaul. How many miles you have on the truck?
 

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I have always put a venting system in the top of the head for the sole reason of getting all the air out of the engines cooling system.
That is exactly what the jiggle pin does. If one wanted to they could remove the little hose (or the valve) and wait for coolant to come out while filling. However, doing it by the FSM works very well.

5.9L Diesel Engine Only; The
diesel engine is equipped with a one-way check valve
(jiggle pin). The check valve is used as a servicing
feature and will vent air when the system is being
filled. Water pressure (or flow) will hold the valve
closed. Due to the use of this valve, the engine
must not be operating when refilling the cooling
system. Refer to Thermostat Operation—5.9L
Diesel Engine in the Thermostat section of this group
for more information.
(4) Fill coolant reserve/overflow tank to the FULL
mark.
(5) Start and operate engine until thermostat
opens. Upper radiator hose should be warm to touch.
(6) If necessary, add 50/50 water and antifreeze
mixture to the coolant reserve/overflow tank to maintain
coolant level. This level should be between the
ADD and FULL marks. The level in the reserve/overflow
tank may drop below the ADD mark after three
or four warm-up and cool-down cycles
 

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Yeah, mine had same symptoms. Losing lot of coolant, go to open radiator cap, and coolant spews out overflow. Mine was a blown head gasket. I had to replace the head, had it magna fluxed, had cracks between exhaust/intake valves and at injector holes. Block was good, got new head, gasket and ARP studs, no problems since.
 

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That brings up a good point. OP, was the freeze plug replaced because the coolant froze and popped it out? Freezing liquid will crack a head.
 

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Find your old radiator cap or get another one and throw that lever type in the garbage.
The linkage on the lever type caps can be a source of a vacuum leak preventing coolant from being drawn back into the radiator.
I've have a good sealed cooling system maintain pressure against the cap for days, so take the cap off and do the bubble test before assuming there's a head gasket problem.
What was the problem with the freeze plug?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
According to the Mechanic that put in this radiator the freeze plug went bad because it sat out on the ranch for long period of time and had straight water in it I know it had coolant because I put it in so yes the freeze plug started leaking out coolant

Just tried a new cap non lever once it cranks up Truck it leaks around cap I don’t know what the jiggle thing is or talking about

I was just curious if I had to replace the head and gasket what would it take to just finish it off and full build it? That little haze of smoke from blowby tube worries me
 

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According to the Mechanic that put in this radiator the freeze plug went bad because it sat out on the ranch for long period of time and had straight water in it I know it had coolant because I put it in so yes the freeze plug started leaking out coolant

Just tried a new cap non lever once it cranks up Truck it leaks around cap I don’t know what the jiggle thing is or talking about
I gave you the info on the jiggle pin. Didn't you bother to read it? Straight water is not coolant. When water freezes it expands.........grade school science. If the engine froze and popped a freeze plug it could have just as easily cracked the head.

I was just curious if I had to replace the head and gasket what would it take to just finish it off and full build it? That little haze of smoke from blowby tube worries me
You can replace the head and/or head gasket with the engine in the truck. it can be done in a day. Rebuilding it requires removing the engine from the truck. Significantly more time and money.
 

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GAmes, you just brought back nightmares of the head gasket I replaced for an out of town forum member who blew it a few miles from my place this past winter.
I wrassled with it for a good few hours outdoors in a windy, blowing -20c or so, while he sat indoors and watched me, with a hot bowl of bison stew no less.
Stoned the surface with frozen fingers and all, and my Cummins branch manager showed up at my place halfway through the process with a new head gasket, all gaskets, a few spare bolts in all lengths, and a 24 case of beer. And he laughed hard at me over several beers for doing this for the sheer heck of it.
Last I heard a couple months back, the forum member made it to his job interview in time, and his 12v is doing well.
OP - acertain your options and do it right.
Any help, ask away - there’s plenty folks here to rise to the occasion.
 
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