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Discussion Starter #1
Sig truck, Stock 3.42 gears. Truck drives fine. Im not all that impressed with the 2-3/3-4 shift points or firmness. I tow a boat in the summer time but not far... my neighborhood is connected to a lake so I may tow 30 miles total a season for 30 boat trips.

I deleted my previous 2011 cummins. I had plans when I bought this one to delete almost immediately, but after being an adult (LAME) I'm leaning tawdrs gears instead of deleting.

Some have said I will be disappointed with gears.

Im not looking for massive performance out of the gears. Just a happier truck. I don't drive like an high school kid, no boosted launches, no trying to spinning tires etc....

The kid in me wants to delete, the adult wants to regear to 4.10 or 4.30.....

Curious as to who is deleted with 37's on stock gears and who is stock and regeared on 37's.

The end game in the next year or two will be a deleted and geared truck.
 

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I would gear first instead of delete. May make you think twice on deleting after you feel the difference gears will make.

Whoever told you that you will be disappointed from a gear swap is a knucklehead.

Oh and there’s a reason why 4.10 is always talked about, because it’s more than what’s needed for 37’s. It’s not because we drank the kool aid, it’s because it actually is ideal. These trucks need 3.9 something with 37’s. Since none such gear exists the next best is 4.10

But I’m tired of convincing people, or trying to. You pick whatever you want. 4.10 4.30 4.56

It’s all the same (drive/feel/acceleration), only difference is final rpm.

In the end you’ll be happy.

Oh and if..IF...you decide to delete later on top of the gear swap..

Oh boy..you’ll be beyond happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would gear first instead of delete. May make you think twice on deleting after you feel the difference gears will make.

Whoever told you that you will be disappointed from a gear swap is a knucklehead.

Oh and there’s a reason why 4.10 is always talked about, because it’s more than what’s needed for 37’s. It’s not because we drank the kool aid, it’s because it actually is ideal. These trucks need 3.9 something with 37’s. Since none such gear exists the next best is 4.10

But I’m tired of convincing people, or trying to. You pick whatever you want. 4.10 4.30 4.56

It’s all the same (drive/feel/acceleration), only difference is final rpm.

In the end you’ll be happy.

Oh and if..IF...you decide to delete later on top of the gear swap..

Oh boy..you’ll be beyond happy.

You and I think alike. I did talk to a local guy with 4.56 and 37s and said it was too low. Im leaning tawrds a 4.10.

I agree with delete and gears... that's the goal.

Im a 100% DIY guy but I rank ring and pinion with transmissions. I would love to order a set of Yukon gears and slap them in this weekend but I don't have the knowledge.

So what brand of gears and what did they run you installed?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yea I don't have a press or anything like that. Im near houston not sure where you are. I am ok with tackling a lot... just not sure about gears alone. My dad has been a mechanic of 40 years.... He's..done....it...ALL.... I asked him about the gear swap... he said send it to a shop. Im having trouble finding a reputable shop around me.
 

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Sure you can!!! Just buy the tools and I can see it in big letters "nick0less drivetrain and headlight shop":grin2:
 

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Sure you can!!! Just buy the tools and I can see it in big letters "nick0less drivetrain and headlight shop":grin2:

if your close enough for driving ill bring beer and $$$$ :wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I REALLY have no idea what im buying with gears. It looks like I need 4.10's... I chose to ignore gears for 32 years because that's wayyy to adult for me... butttt #dadlife is about dependablity now right... blah... I have no idea the difference in AAM, G2, Yukon, Mat Foley in a Van down by the river gears....

At this point you guys could tell me the purple unicorn brand is the best and I would believe y'all.... I HATE diffs and TRANS stuff!
 

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Let’s keep it simple (and reliable)

Go with AAM. They’re the same brand as OEM. You’ll have zero issues.
Here’s what you’ll need.

AAM 9.25 Ring & Pinion + Front Master Install Kit (for that size axle)
AAM 11.50 Ring & Pinion + Rear Master Install Kit (for that size axle)

That’s it. Here’s another link that sells it all as one package. It has pictures so you can see what I’m talking about.

https://8lugtruckgear.com/Drivetrain/Dodge-Drivetrain/Dodge-Differential-Parts/AAM-8LUG-2014-Ram-2500-Front-and-Rear-Re-Gear-Kit-p1816.html

I see that you have a 2013. It’s a 2500 correct? Verify your axle size by looking at the bolt configuration and searching google images. Look up “AAM 9.25 axle” and “AAM 11.50 axle”. Make sure what you’re looking at matches what you have before ordering.
 

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he said send it to a shop. Im having trouble finding a reputable shop around me.
The problem is 99% of shops aren’t capable of or willing to do the job correctly. My advice is buy the tools and do it yourself so you know it’s done right. AAMs are easy. They have screw adjusters on the carrier and use a crush sleeve on the pinion. Just take your time setting the pinion depth and the rest is easy. Yukon is what I use and they come with a pretty good instruction manual.
 

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3.42 with 37” tires with a tune is asking for problems, especially if you tow. If you can find a good shop, do gears. Having said that, I’m running 37” mud tires with 3.42, tuned, but I’m special.
 

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I went to 4.56 after reading a bunch of people here that said 4.10-4.56 wouldn't be a big difference. I tow a 10k trailer regularly in hilly areas, so I thought this would do me better... 75 MPH at 2000 rpms is a bit annoying when I'm not towing, but not unbearable. It has been amazing for towing. Driving up several grades that normally put me at about 1400 degrees, the temps never broke 1000 the last time I towed... and the exhaust brake is awesome now! If I had to do it again, I would go 4.10, but I don't regret my decision... I'm the guy who would have always thought, I wonder if it would have been better at 4.56...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Welp fellas, I went right in the middle. I ordered nitro 4.30's on Friday. I decided on the 4.30 because after using a calculator, to hit stock numbers, I needed a 4.15. So 4.10 would have been fine but I figured with my heavy rolling stock and frequency of towing the boat in the summer, 4.30's will be the happy medium...

Also, decided to do it in my driveway. Buying a harbor freight press to do the job and am planning on the install on 1/4 due to my work schedule. It allows the wife and I to be home at the same time so she can take care of the babies while I work on the truck. Im excited but continuing to research.

The company tried selling me their oil for 250 bucks a case-. Problem is that I have mag tech covers. I plan to run a cheaper break in oil and run a quality oil after. Not 18 bucks a qt oil but I figure Mobile 1 will be fine for running. Hose brand oil will be the break in..
 

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Discussion Starter #18
FWIW I have 37's and I went Nitro 4.30's as a compromise between the 4.10 and 4.56. 40k on them now. Broke in according to spec. No issues and happy with my choice. Just my experience.
Thats the route im going...
 

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Definitely appreciate the info that you have supplied!

I was an idiot and did things in a backwards order, if I was to do it again gears would have been #1 on my list.

I deleted my truck first, then added in a billet valve body, I am finally looking at gears...

I currently run 35's, tow <10k infrequently. I am probably going to go with the AAM 4.30s you linked. I was curious though, what would it cost per axle to have someone do this? I figured just in materials I will have $1500, then another $600 or so in labor?

Currently searching for shops in my area to have it taken care of in the upcoming months.
 
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