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This has been a work in slow progress for almost 10 years. Six on the build thread.
http://1954ford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=3457
That's a pretty neat project! And looks like you're getting close to the end. I do find myself a little curious about the idea of a club dedicated to "1954 Ford cars, trucks, and tractors". I mean... are they so different from 53's and 55s? :)
 

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I mean... are they so different from 53's and 55s? :)
Although the '53 bodies are basically the same, the rest isn't. '54 was the first year for ball joint type IFS and the first Ford OHV V8. ('54s built in Canada retained the 239 ci flathead engine) It is also the first year that power windows and a power front seat was an option, and the first year of the Skyliner plexiglass half roof. '55s changed body style and although the Y-block V8 design was continued the 252ci has very few parts that will fit the '54 239ci. I haven't looked, but wouldn't be surprised if there is a '55 Ford forum out there.

I started this project because my wife was driving a '54 Skyliner that her father had given to her when I met her in 1967. Due to the Army, and life the car went away. But for over 30 years I listened to her lament about the car her dad had given her. Funds wouldn't allow me to buy one that was complete, so I looked for one I could repair. It was in a dark barn when I looked it over so I didn't realize how poor a specimen it was. I never dreamed I'd have as much time and money into it as I have.
 

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Discussion Starter #143
Well, had a somewhat long reply typed up, hit submit, and then the forum wigged out on me, logging me out... Something to do with the new design that just took effect I guess. Now that I'm logged back in (finally), things seem to be working again.

Got a call from my machinist, with both good and bad news.

Good news:
Cylinder bores measured fine. He just honed them lightly for the new rings ( #dauntless89 :) )
Deck is straight, block hot-tanked.

Bad news:
Crankshaft needs re-ground. He said there was some grooving, and that after polishing it would be a bit under spec.
So that's another $150-$200 and 1-2 weeks. He has to send it out somewhere else that can do the re-grind.
He said it'd need 10/10 bearings, I'm assuming he meant 0.010" undersize, for each bearing half. 0.010" is the same as 0.25mm that I see listed, right? google says they're almost the same measurement.

He hasn't mic'd the pistons yet, but I don't expect any problems with them.

Question: I had planned on using MAHLE/CLEVITE S42221 Premium piston rings, which will be about $200 for a set.
However, I see full sets of Cummins OEM rings for about $80 delivered on eBay. Any reason to not go that route? Assuming of course that I don't get any fake rip-off brands, I think I can tell the real deal from fake.

I suppose the same question applies to Mahle P series bearings vs Cummins OEM bearings.
 

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Just so you know Cummins doesn't make rings, bearings or gaskets, a supplier makes them to Cummins specs.
Got my engine kit from Liberty Engine Parts, came with Mahle pistons, Hastings moly rings, Federal Mogul bearings and FelPro gaskets.
Good parts, good price.
 

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Discussion Starter #145
Just so you know Cummins doesn't make rings, bearings or gaskets, a supplier makes them to Cummins specs.
Got my engine kit from Liberty Engine Parts, came with Mahle pistons, Hastings moly rings, Federal Mogul bearings and FelPro gaskets.
Good parts, good price.
Yeah I know. If Cummins sees fit to put their name on a set of rings or bearings, then I assume it's plenty good enough for me. But since the Mahle/Clevite bearings & rings were recommended to me, I wondered if there was a specific reason to use them as opposed to whatever Cummins puts their name on.

Just heard from my machinist again today, everything is ready to be picked up!
Turns out the crank only needed polishing and will still use standard size bearings, according to the guy the machinist sent it to. He said he trusts his opinion on cranks. Total bill was only $230.

I'll probably go ahead and drop off the head to have him work over. I'll have him install my 60# valve springs while he's at it.

I'll check in later with anything I learn from the machinist. Will probably have more questions about something I'm sure.
 

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Mahle has been making pistons for Cummins for years putting Cummins stampings on them, but they also sell the same pistons aftermarket with Mahle stampings. Rings, bearings and gaskets are the same way.
If you want to pay more just for the Cummins name that's your choice but you'll most likely be getting the same parts with the OEM's name on them.
My block had been decked requiring a .010 thicker head gasket, FelPro makes them but nobody had one so I did get one from Cummins since they had it in stock, didn't exactly like paying $145 for a head gasket but it got me going.
Just saying shop around, you could save some $, just don't buy cheap Interstate McBee junk.
 

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Discussion Starter #147
I'm not looking to pay more just for a Cummins stamp. On the contrary, Cummins oem piston rings on ebay are about half the price of mahle/clevite rings on rock auto.

I haven't really price checked bearings yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #148
Quick update.

Got my cylinder head back from the machinist.
Hot tanked, crack checked, was straight.
Nothing amiss, valve seals good.
Valve job/grind.
60lb springs installed.

Got my .gov stimulus, so I ordered a bunch of essential engine parts :)
  • Hamilton 178/208 towing cam with a set of their 1.45" tappets
  • hybrid stage 2 push-rods, with the 24v style tappet balls.
  • mahle/clevite cam bushing, main bearings, rod bearings, and piston rings.
  • aluminum piston oil squirters/coolers
Talked myself out of the budget builder cam (essentially a marine cam), so I went with what appeared to be the obvious choice...

Gotta get some assembly lube, re-paint the engine block, then I'll get it back together.

Wish me luck!
 

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If I had mine out I would have made you a good deal on a Colt Big Stick
Have to pull the cam to replace a cracked gear case, going to put a stock cam back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #150
If I had mine out I would have made you a good deal on a Colt Big Stick
Have to pull the cam to replace a cracked gear case, going to put a stock cam back in.
When are you going to get around to that?

I'm not sure if a colt big stick would be preferable in my application or not.
 

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Not sure, it's leaking a qrt every 500 miles and making a mess, but I've got several other farm project that have to be done first, will probably wait till this fall when haying is done unless it suddenly gets worst and I have no choice.
 
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