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I’m taking my 97 Cummins 12 valve to be rebuilt next week and getting many upgrades performance wise to the motor just as 5x14 injector nozzles, t3 intake manifold, advancing my timing, studding the head. Next question is, do you Cummins gurus think I should do a bigger/better cam than the stock one? I’m thinking about running a 188/220 Hamilton cam but my question is, will it be worth the extra cost for the power gain or should I stick with my stock cam? Thanks
 

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Depends on your end goal with the truck.


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Truck will be used mainly as a daily driver, work truck and making some power when done. Was just thinking since the motor is being torn apart would it be worth putting a bigger cam in while he is right there.
 

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I think he was asking for a power goal. How much hp do you want to see?

What are you doing with the ip?
 

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For what you describe, no. An aftermarket cam would be a waste of money that you could put into a turbo.


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Ya the stock turbo will be out of wind before you max out the rest of the motor. Some simple pump mods will run you out of air.
 

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Oh ok gotcha 👍. I’m looking for around 400hp when all is said and done as I don’t want to be eating up my transmission. Essentially I just would like a fast street/work truck than will blow some doors off car. So maybe I will just invest my money into something better
 

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Depending on mileage, and if you don’t want to touch anything for a while. You could send the pump out for rebuild and max/balance. But if it was running good now, I would save that cash too. Unless you don’t have the ability to pull and reinstall later.

4K gov springs and some free pump mods, had my 98 scootin pretty good. Dunno if it would blow doors off, but it went for a 7500 lb truck. And would immediately slip the brand new clutch if I wasn’t careful.
 

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400 hp? 5x.012 injectors, free pump mods, fuel plate (if you want to go that route. I bought AFCL from PDD, so I can’t comment on what profile you need), bump timing ~16*, 4K GSK, 60lb valve springs, k27 or equivalent turbo, head studs (if you’d like to spend that money and your head bolts are out of spec.), ARP connecting rod bolts because you’re in there, and some tuning.

Make sure your entire rotating assembly is balanced (crank, flywheel, connecting rods, dampener). Everything listed above is quite budget friendly.

Stock transmission (assuming auto) will go before anything else. And it will go very soon if your engine can put down 400hp.


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400 hp? 5x.012 injectors, free pump mods, fuel plate (if you want to go that route. I bought AFCL from PDD, so I can’t comment on what profile you need), bump timing ~16*, 4K GSK, 60lb valve springs, k27 or equivalent turbo, head studs (if you’d like to spend that money and your head bolts are out of spec.), ARP connecting rod bolts because you’re in there, and some tuning.

Make sure your entire rotating assembly is balanced (crank, flywheel, connecting rods, dampener). Everything listed above is quite budget friendly.

Stock transmission (assuming auto) will go before anything else. And it will go very soon if your engine can put down 400hp.


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yep I have all of the above coming.I already have an AFC live. Currently I am getting 5x14 injector nozzle heads, complete motor rebuild kit from PDD including all new bearings, timing will be advanced, will be having a new 3 piece performance manifold put on, transmission has already been beefed up, as far as getting anything else performance wise would I be better to go with the 188/220 cam like I was saying previously or should I get a bigger turbo? My turbo is currently stock. Anything else I should have added to the motor while it is being torn apart? I’m open to recommendations
 

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Hard pass on the cam at this power level.


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I would never put an engine back together with a stock cam. Even a 400hp engine will benefit from a "small" "towing" cam.

I would personally steer you toward Colt or No Limit.
 

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I mean, is it necessary though? At that level? It’s not money better spent elsewhere? For a street truck anyway. Thinks I’ve read is there’s no real benefit to an aftermarket cam unless you’re looking for excess of 600 hp.


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"Necessary" is a subjective term that the OP will need to figure out for himself.

The facts are that 300hp engines with cams will pick up mileage, spool, and drop steady-state EGTs in addition to picking up some power potential on the top end over a stock cam. The cam profile does become more important the higher your power level goes.

It's also a fact that dollar for dollar, a turbo and injectors are the most cost effective way to pick up horsepower. There are often other considerations though, like drivability and fuel economy. It's also often the first thing to be culled from a build list on a stock (<500hp) engine when a budget comes into play.
 

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"Necessary" is a subjective term that the OP will need to figure out for himself.

The facts are that 300hp engines with cams will pick up mileage, spool, and drop steady-state EGTs in addition to picking up some power potential on the top end over a stock cam. The cam profile does become more important the higher your power level goes.

It's also a fact that dollar for dollar, a turbo and injectors are the most cost effective way to pick up horsepower. There are often other considerations though, like drivability and fuel economy. It's also often the first thing to be culled from a build list on a stock (QUOTE]

Yes. And a turbo and injectors are easier addons if the money is t there.

What about Hamilton cam? Would you recommend cam bearings?
 

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Ease is irrelevant on a rebuild. You have to take the stock cam out and you have to put one back in. With the engine in-frame, I would only ever do a cam swap if my life depended on it.

You could not pay me to use Hamilton at this point.

The last time I had a cam bearing job quoted, it was $800. There's no need for it unless you're going with a steel cam or running 5000+ rpm worth of valve spring.
 

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Ease is irrelevant on a rebuild. You have to take the stock cam out and you have to put one back in. With the engine in-frame, I would only ever do a cam swap if my life depended on it.

You could not pay me to use Hamilton at this point.

The last time I had a cam bearing job quoted, it was $800. There's no need for it unless you're going with a steel cam or running 5000+ rpm worth of valve spring.
That was my point. The turbo and injectors can be done easier at a later date, if money was an issue. Cam not so much.
 
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