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Discussion Starter #1
I have done some searching around the fourm and couldnt find anything. I appologize if i missed it.

I am wanting to buy a 2000-2002 cummins and all the ones i have been looking at are around 100k miles. What are some common problems with the engine, trans, etc. that i should know about and have checked before buying? what problems will i run into down the road?

thanks,
Jack
 

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prob.

lift pumps are sh*t and causes the inj. pump to fail. If you start towing or pulling or making any kind of power you should upgrade the tranny. You should also install gauges EGT, TRANS TEMP, BOOST, FUEL PRESS. Hope you enjoy the forum theres lots of good info & people !!!:thumbsup:
 
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Discussion Starter #3
thank you!
so should i look for a truck that has had the lift pump replaced already? i dont want to run into any problems right after i dump some money on a new-to-me truck
 

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that would be fine, look to see if the truck has a frame mounted FP. like a FASS or AIR DOG , RAPTOR is also a good pump!! Once you make a purchase use 1oz. of 2stroke oil for every gal. of fuel. The fuel thats out there now SUCKS as far as lube goes!!
 

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IMO less is more. Look for a truck that doesn't have every mod and accessory already done to it. The reason I say that is while its nice to save money up front and buy a truck with all the mods done to it, it could really come back to bite you in the butt. When a person installs injectors, chip, intake, bigger turbos, etc. the chances of the original owner "babying" that truck are slim.
If you have your heart set on a truck with mods done to it, make sure that the transmission has been upgraded, or all that extra power is going to blow the tranny.

An upgraded lift pump is a must though, if the truck you buy doesnt have one, get one.
 

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^

Not only that, but Let's say you go looking for a truck that has a FASS or AirDog.
Do you know who installed it? Did they hang it off the frame with some ZipTies or a twisted up coat hanger? Did they hack up wiring with a machete and use scotch tape to insulate it?

There's plenty of competent, do-it-yourselfers out there... There's plenty of people that take their vehicles to the shop to get modified too.

Then again, there's plenty of rednecks that'll throw stuff together, half-assed. Some of them own shops.
 

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^

Then again, there's plenty of rednecks that'll throw stuff together, half-assed. Some of them own shops.
Haha bailing twine and duct tape! :rof
 

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Haha bailing twine and duct tape! :rof
Well if you can strap some to a bird i'll use it, i think my muffler bearings are going bad, but it could be the piston return springs. rof:rof
 

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I would first look to see if it a 53 Block, once past that issue as far as the engine goes yes the Lift Pump and VP44 (Injection Pump) are considered weak points. the VP44 depends on fuel to cool it and if it isn't getting enough is can be toast. That said I am driving an 01 with Stock Lift pump the puts out 10 PSI at idle and about 7 at WOT, that will do it could be better. I bought it with 232,000 Miles so I assume they have been replaced once, but it is still an engine mounted pump.
Look for issues with the front end Heavy engine means more wear. Look the engine over both before starting and after a drive. My engine compartment was clean, but was not cleaned recently, look for oil leaks a well maintained engin with have none or minimal leaks.
:blues:
 

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Don't forget about checking for leaking grill gaskets and low blinker fluid!!!

But seriously, there are a few things to check for when you look at trucks. You can get an idea is the lift pump is going out or already out by bumping the starter then listening to the pump. If you hear abnormal noise like cavitation or squalling, it's probably bad.

Check the front end. They are notorious for being loose and sloppy.

If auto, feel for slip in the tranny like you would any vehicle you're looking at.

Once you find one and have any specific questions, post up. There is tons of great information on here.
 

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Here is most of what you'll need to select the year you'd like to buy and what to look for when you go looking at a potential candidate:

Turbo Diesel Buyers Guide

Year to year changes, Technical Service Bulletins, Standard features and options packages, common problems...

Prepare yourself. It takes up a 2 inch binder... If you print on both sides of the paper.
 

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Ball joints, tie rods etc.. The cummins engine is vary heavy, if it has a heavy duty grill guard or wheels with offset most ball joints go quick.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You all have great points and have been way more helpful then i have seen on my Chevy Fourm!

Yeah i have seen many people F**K up by buying a "sweet lifted truck with tons of extras" and then have the truck fall apart a month later.
The trucks i have been looking at have mostly been one owner trade ins that look like they have never been driven. I will use all the info i got here to rule out the bad ones and find a perfect(or close to) cummins
 

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:agree2:
That is what I found, mine had few more miles on it than I would have liked, but at 232,000 it looked and drove better than several that I had looked at on "Used Car Lots" with 150,000.
It was a one owner Trade on a new 2011 Cummins with "Four Full Doors" It doesn't look like or drive like it has that many miles, and it is still basically stock. Pulls my 27' 5th just fine, only power plans currently are a Fass Lift pump, either a DDR relocated or a 100, and a Power Puck.
 

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Might want to rule out the 99 and go with 2000 and up. Mine has disks and pads and I get 30 thou if lucky on the front pads. Remember these are heavy trucks. Besides the fuel issue that was discussed these are a electrical nightmare at times. Just read some of the posts on here you will see. But this engine is almost bulletproof.
 
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