Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner
1 - 20 of 90 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
926 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm paranoid about rust after searching high and low for a SUPER clean truck from outside of the salt belt. I put about 2 gallons of fluid film over the entire underside and anywhere I could reach with the truck on my buddies lift. I sprayed a metric crap ton over each rear wheel well as best as I could reach as I've seen these trucks rust there all the time.

Wondering where else these trucks like to start rusting so I can pay particular attention.

When washing I always spray out the bottom and with the fluid film a lil bit of it seems to wash off but all kinds of dirt and salt comes pouring out when I spray underneath. I have a hose with pretty good volume that I can use every day at work then let my truck dry in a warm enough area it won't freeze.

I try to spray under the corners in the rear over the rear wheel wells to wash any salt or dirt/crud out from over the wheel wells where it seems to rust. Making sure to keep those drain holes in the top of the wheel well unobstructed. Is this good or bad though? Does the water still pool up there somewhere and later freeze? It sits in a 35-40 degree area for 7-10 hours after washing before going out in the cold again.

Appreciate any advice. These trucks getting a bit older should start to show the problem prone areas by now on some trucks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
257 Posts
My ritual is to buy a box of cheap black rattle can paint in the spring and fall. I paint the entire underside of the truck...frame, axles, springs and all. Keeps the rust off and not to mention leaves the under carriage looking like new. As for the body panels the first places are the pinchwelds, cab corners, doors and above the wheel wells. I pay 20 bucks a month for a local car wash that I can wash once a day all month if I like. I don't use it that often but I do more often in the winter. I pay close attention to inside the door jambs andkeep them nice and clean. I make sure iI dry it off as well as possible after each wash and have never had a problem with rust.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,230 Posts
I fluidfilm the crap out of the bottom also. This spring or summer I am going to have some rust work fixed. It has just started and is more speckled then anything. Its cheaper now while all that's needed is sanding and painting
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Oh Boy! This subject is one of my favorite prevention pursuits! I love the fluid film weapons too. Now my fight against rust also includes a spray can product from Wynn's called Viscotene. The stuff sprays light and wet but within a few seconds changes viscosity and becomes a clear, thick lubricant that moisture can't penetrate or wash away.
I spray it inside the bottom of my doors, cab corners, inside any double panel within the body, including the underside of the hood. If the panel has a factory opening or screw that can be removed easily I spray it up into the panels. I also removed the skid pad on my factory step bars and sprayed it into the tubes.
Just a mention....I also added the factory inner fender wells to my rear bed wheel
openings. They really keep all the spray confined and stop the sand, dirt, salt from covering the bed seams and body mounts.
I was so impressed by the rear bed inner fenders I got them for my boys' F150's also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
I've got rust started on the bottom of my doors from gravel specs, and on my rear fenders. I am getting it done this spring (i hope), these prevention techiniques will hopefully benefit it!... subscribing..:party018:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Oh Boy! This subject is one of my favorite prevention pursuits! I love the fluid film weapons too. Now my fight against rust also includes a spray can product from Wynn's called Viscotene. The stuff sprays light and wet but within a few seconds changes viscosity and becomes a clear, thick lubricant that moisture can't penetrate or wash away.
I spray it inside the bottom of my doors, cab corners, inside any double panel within the body, including the underside of the hood. If the panel has a factory opening or screw that can be removed easily I spray it up into the panels. I also removed the skid pad on my factory step bars and sprayed it into the tubes.
Just a mention....I also added the factory inner fender wells to my rear bed wheel
openings. They really keep all the spray confined and stop the sand, dirt, salt from covering the bed seams and body mounts.
I was so impressed by the rear bed inner fenders I got them for my boys' F150's also.

Do you happen to have the part number for the inner fenders?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
Painted the frame before the winter with POR15 or paint over rust 15. It chemically bonds with the rust on the frame or whatever sort an does not get removed easily!!
 

·
3 footin' through life
Joined
·
12,300 Posts
Fluid film! Can not say enough about it! Use it in summer though. Using it now is a bad move as it is basically locking in the salt and any moisture on the surface. Clean it all summer and then go to town in September. I used to paint everything but learned my lesson. You are just putting a bandaid on that pleases the eye. The paint isn't very effective at sealing out moisture. You money is much better spent on fluid film. If you use fluid film from the get go you will never have to paint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,591 Posts
This fluid film stuff, where can you buy it, and is it just like spraying the underside of your vehicle with oil? I'm going to probably when it get's nice out, sand the rust spots away and paint POR15 or rust bullet on those spots then use fluid film. Thoughts?


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

·
3 footin' through life
Joined
·
12,300 Posts
Good plan. I've never seen fluid film locally. Only online...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,151 Posts
Krown rust control ftw. I don't know if they are around in the states, but up around here they are what I use every year. They have special tiny nozzles that get into every crevace. They even drill holes (and plug them) in the rockers and in the door panels and soak everything that you cant even see. Also they take the back tail lights off and stick an 8' long nozzle inside the truck box and soak it as well.. 150$ a year and it is well worth it
 
  • Like
Reactions: jrsavoie

·
3 footin' through life
Joined
·
12,300 Posts
I wish there was a krown dealer around here. I would have it professionally applied every year if there was.

BTW, Black Diesel, I forgot to answer that its kinda oil but not really. It is advertised as a lanolin product, whatever that means I have no idea. It goes on with a transparent yellow tone. Its thick, clings and doesn't wash off quickly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
i am part of the fluid film crew aswell! I swear by the stuff i use it every fall
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,200 Posts
Fluid film is the Best way to get rid of that new truck smell, it stinks...It's over priced.
It washes off so if you wash your truck it's going down the drain.
Cleans up with soap and water.
It's lanolin..
Lanolin is a wax that is taken from sheep's wool and is used in creams, waxes, oil and cosmetics.

I've used it and I give it a failing mark.

FYI.
There is an article on line by the Canadian armed forces, it was called , review of corrosion control programs, they tested ten products and their properties to protect metal exposed to the elements, gives a person a little extra knowledge

http://www.corrosionfree.com/Dept_of_Defence_Report.pdf
 

·
BC Chapter President
Joined
·
1,363 Posts
Pull the tail lights and spray wax above the wheel wells where the box sides meet the well. The box side and the inner and outer wheel well all meet together and hold dirt and salt and stuff. Dodge also has a peace of foam right in that area making it even worse.

This is the area that will cause paint "bubbles" about an 1" above the wheel lip. People often put fender flares on to hide it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
298 Posts
Fluid film and salt away do have to be re-applied.

Salt away to neutralize salt. Better deal than the stuff from Eastwood. Both are available in link below.

The Rust Store - Salt Away

I plan on applying rust proofing the body panels and coating the inside of the frame rails this spring.

Most all that you can get from Eastwood.

Eastwood Internal Frame Coating
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
298 Posts
wax

Pull the tail lights and spray wax above the wheel wells where the box sides meet the well. The box side and the inner and outer wheel well all meet together and hold dirt and salt and stuff. Dodge also has a peace of foam right in that area making it even worse.

This is the area that will cause paint "bubbles" about an 1" above the wheel lip. People often put fender flares on to hide it.
I used Amsoil heavy duty metal protector last fall for this. Used it on snowplow pistons for outdoor storage for a few years and they looked like new. No rust. It has a wax type base that dries but doesn't flake of get hard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,591 Posts
Alright. This is my trucks 2nd winter here in the PA salt belt, and hope it is it's last. Previously came from southern California (LA). So what would you guys suggest doing for surface rust, and preventing the fender wells from rusting out?


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
1 - 20 of 90 Posts
Top