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Hey all,

I have another question for this great group of people. Bought my '14 Ram 3500 Crew Cab Long Bed out in California 2 years ago, 66k miles. As I posted in another thread, it just hit 100k miles. I moved to Missouri 14 months ago and make occasional trips to Minnesota. Both areas that love salt and rust loving chemicals to be sprayed on the road. I was doing some research and my dad just bought a '19 Big Horn (Off my recommendations :smile2: ) and was talking about taking it in to a place to rust proof it (he lives in Minnesota). My question is:

For the 2013-2018 Ram 3500 Crew Cab Long Beds, where are the common rust areas? After I bought my truck, I crawled under it and saw places like cab corners and rear bed corners where a bunch of clay/dirt (remember, California truck) was caked on. I've since cleaned them out and I pay particular attention to those areas when washing this truck because I want it to last but in the end, rust always wins. I don't know of any prior rust treatment this truck received. Are there any rust treatment items worth using?

I avoid using it in the winter and if it is used in bad weather, the first nice day (usually over 30 degrees) with clean roads, I will take the truck to the car wash and use the pressure washer on the under carriage. I did notice that my truck has the two-tone paint scheme with matching painted plastic fender flairs so that makes me nervous because I can't see behind there. Anyways, any common rust areas on these trucks and any pictures are greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time and assistance.
 

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spray inside the bottom of the doors lay it on thick in 1-2yrs you'll see it creeping up the door I use fluid film great stuff.
 

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Not common but I am close to having a rust hole right above the center of the windshield. Washed it a few weeks ago and a big chunk of the paint fell of exposing the rust. Not covered under warrant, clearly a rock hit it while driving, but shocked at the rust that happened under the paint before I found it. I do live 100 yards from the ocean with no garage so that also probably played a huge role after the rock damage.
 

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x2 for the wheel wells. My 2014 showed signs on the passenger side wheel well on the bed... seems impossible to avoid if you live in the rust belt.
 

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Do whatever you can wherever you can. Sh/t steel, poor or non existent rust prevention at the factory, and the crap they put all over the roads is all against you.
 

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One thing I've considered doing (while putting clear bra on all the typical areas that get chipped with sand and rocks kicked up by the tires) on our new car is putting thin strips of clear bra on the lip of the fender wells, extending slightly onto the exposed surface and wrap around onto the lip that's rolled into the fender well. Seems like an area I touch up paint regularly.
Good mud flaps also help a bunch to save the lower panels and rocker panels from damage (that turns to rust).
I would also remove the fender flares on a new vehicle and clear bra where the fender flare contacts the paint. It works great. Been doing it behind license plates and such on other vehicles, where a bolt on part will rub through the paint eventually.
And if I ever move back to the salt belt and have a new vehicle, I'll try to keep up with treating the undercarriage and typical dirt/mud trap areas on the underside of the body with Fluid Film/woolwax/Krown, something.
 

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Good mud flaps also help a bunch to save the lower panels and rocker panels from damage (that turns to rust).
I would also remove the fender flares on a new vehicle and clear bra where the fender flare contacts the paint..
Thanks everyone for the input. Does anyone know if I remove the factory fender flares, will it be painted under there? I have the two tone where the truck is white but the bottom 12" is gray so I'm not sure if removing it will make it look worse or not? Additionally, what are the best mud flaps to get that won't cause extra problems down the road?
 

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I would recommend Eastwood products , I Undercoated my 2007 with Eastwood Epoxy on the frame with the Brush application and then applied 4 Cans of Eastwood sealer for the inside of the frame , It comes with a 30" plastic tube with shower head nozzle that is stuffed deep into the frame and pulled out while trigger is pulled , And then Applied Rubberized rust undercoat on frame and under body. They have nice bottle brushes that attach to a cordless drill and will make easy prep of frame .2 days 18 hrs on my back to apply . Or ? Have Krown Coatings do a professional job.. My purchase on the 2013 i just picked up with Carfax that all records showing my truck was Undercoated by Krown after new purched in 2013 and records show follow up treatents from Krown . Huge selling point .I live in New England and they salt like maniacs here too , after 5 years my undercarriage looks new .
 
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