[Sphinxj13]

Hi Everyone,
I'm having issues with truck not starting when it's cold. Truck has 194k on it so figured it was due to worn injectors so replaced all of them and truck will start right up after then next morning truck will not start...before I replaced the injectors the truck would only truck after it has been plugged in for few hours. I followed the injector install sequence exactly and I changed them last night outside when temp was 27 degrees and the injectors had been sitting out there all day and it started right away once I finished putting it all back together. I also tried unplugging the FCA and still no luck. Looking for any ideas or help!
Thank you

 

[dieseladdiction0308]

Check your rail pressure relief valve. Make sure the connector tubes were torqued properly as well.

 

[klode]

Shouldnt new connector tubes be installed with new injectors?

 

[upnorthdiesel]

check your grid heater for proper operation. just because the relays click doesnt mean that the grid heater is working. easy to check with a test light.

 

[Sphinxj13]

Grid heater wasn't working properly, relay was bad. I purchased a new one but still have same issue that truck won't start when it's cold but as soon as temp gets about 50 then it will fire right up!

 

[hercules222]

Can you check your cranking rail pressure? Gotta have at least 3000.

 

[Sphinxj13]

I do not have gauges to check it but probably can get them if it's something simple...makes no sense that it starts right up after I change the injectors and next morning won't start but just crank...I'm thinking maybe bad battery and not getting enough juice to turn over...

 

[klode]

Did you try retorquing your conector tubes? Your obviously loosing pressure somewhere. In colder temperatures your cranking speed slows down just enough to not build the minimum pressure your computer needs to see before it will fire the injectors. Even if your starter was worn out and not cranking as quick as it should, it should still start. Warmer temperatures or using either (not recommended) will allow your motor to crank faster thus building more rail pressure, then she'll start.

You're truck is doing the EXACT same thing my 03 did. I got a shop to change all injectors AND conector tubes and problem went away.

 

[NeMachinist]

How's the lift pump pressure?

When you are cranking is there any smoke, white smoke mainly?

You are either not getting high enough cranking speed, or you are loosing rail pressure faster than you can make it.

Fuel supply 1st, then rail relief and the relief valve on the cp3 need to be checked.

Don't waste time chasing the grid heater as a problem, it is not needed exept for brutal cold below 0f.

 

[Sphinxj13]

I've retorqued everything 3 times just to make sure and every time I do the truck starts right up after I finish putting it all back together when it's 20-30 degrees outside then after it sits overnight it won't start the next morning. I'm wondering if even though my batteries are testing good that one of them is bad and causing it not to crank like it should or maybe I need to replace the crossover tubes also.

 

[Sphinxj13]

I have an air dog 150 on the truck and there's no smoke at all when the truck starts up...maybe it's one of the relief valves that went bad? Really getting frustrated over this now! Grid heater relay/solenoid was bad but now that's fixed even though I don't really need it.

 

[NeMachinist]

Maybe the crossover battery cable is corroded and causing high resistance.

I understand the frustration, I've been there from time to time.

You really need to confirm lift pump pressure to the cp3. Then go from there.

You can hook a booster pack 9r jumper cables to the drivers side batt to see if that improves cranking rpm.

 

[Sphinxj13]

Check the lift lumpy pressure even though air dog goes directly from tank to the cp3?

 

[NeMachinist]

Check the lift lumpy pressure even though air dog goes directly from tank to the cp3?

Yes. Unless you are absolutely positively sure that the pump is working correctly. But only way to really be that sure is to check pressure.

If you can open the fuel system, via a filter drain, or fuel line connection, and confirm that fuel gets shot out with some gusto when you bump the starter, just need some way to prove that the pump is working.

 

[Sphinxj13]

Well last time I check the crossover tubes torque I forgot to tighten the first fuel line all the way at the rail and it was pissing fuel everywhere!

 

[klode]

That'll do it... so now is everything ok?

 

[Sphinxj13]

Nope that's was before...still fighting issue now and everything is torqued correctly. Bought new battery last night and still no luck

 

[Sphinxj13]

Just doesn't make any sense on why it will start up right after I replace injectors but then not anymore. Maybe the FCA is bad???

 

[klode]

Then it would do it all the time...same as for the lift pump. I am almost certain you have a leak on the high pressure side. Mine acted the same exact way.

New connector tubes should be installed with new injectors. Your old connector tubes are formed to your old injectors on the ends where they seat on the injector. Therefor, your old connector tubes may not be seating properly against your new injectors. This will cause higher then normal return rates and cause a no start condition because the minimum Rail Pressure hasnt been acheived during cranking. This is more noticable in colder temperatures...

 

[NeMachinist]

What klode said could certainly be the problem.

My way of think for any problem is to start at one end of the system and test your way through the possible problems, rather than jump to the middle based on a feeling or a hunch.

To each their own I say.