Cummins Diesel Forum banner

Cold air intake

3875 Views 22 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Twostackcadillac
Hello,
I have a 98 3500 Dually 12v and curious if a cold air intake is worth the money. I have a slightly modified 12v with K&N filter, 4" exhaust and slightly advanced fuel (So the PO said) I'm not looking for a fire breather to take away from reliability, but rather something with a bit more get up and go since I haul a 11.5 camper and a smaller cargo trailer.
If this is a good option, what brands are the ones to look for?

Thanks!
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Hello,
I have a 98 3500 Dually 12v and curious if a cold air intake is worth the money. I have a slightly modified 12v with K&N filter, 4" exhaust and slightly advanced fuel (So the PO said) I'm not looking for a fire breather to take away from reliability, but rather something with a bit more get up and go since I haul a 11.5 camper and a smaler cargo trailer.
If this is a good option, what brands are the ones to look for?

Thanks!
....you are probably going to get a lot of cricket on here with that question. It is a subject that has been beaten and dissected to death!

Do a search on here for ALL that you can want for info. :thumbsup:

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-powertrain/287781-beginners-thread-read-first.html
Yeah, I think you are right...thanks for the insight.....
Intakes typically don't add any power that you can feel. What I would do though is ditch the K&N filter, they let a lot of dirt through and turbos don't like that, lol.

If you want a little more kick out of it, go with a governor spring kit if it doesn't have one already.
Intakes typically don't add any power that you can feel. What I would do though is ditch the K&N filter, they let a lot of dirt through and turbos don't like that, lol.

If you want a little more kick out of it, go with a governor spring kit if it doesn't have one already.
Thank you for the info. Truck is new to me. Is there a way to know if that mod has been done and if not, where would I find the info to do it? Thanks!!

Ken
if your are wanting an intake, get a bhaf, i forget part number. but the stock with a good filter is a cold air intake pretty much, and is able to support a decent amount of hp
Thank you for the info. Truck is new to me. Is there a way to know if that mod has been done and if not, where would I find the info to do it? Thanks!!

Ken
Keep it in a lower gear and floor it, if it falls on its face around 2200-2400 RPM, the governor springs should be stock.
Keep it in a lower gear and floor it, if it falls on its face around 2200-2400 RPM, the governor springs should be stock.
Well, it certainly does that (Falls on its face at that RPM) WHere might I go for the parts needed and instructions to do it? Is it a straight forward mod?
Would I find that in the newbie thread? Thanks!

Ken
Pacbrake accessories - leveling kits and spacers, governor springs, tie rod sleeves, and more -

6th item down the list. The install can be tedious, especially on your first time.
I appreciate the information!!! If I read the info correctly, the springs are to be used with a 5 speed standard transmission while I have an AT. I will be working on the truck this weekend so I think I will look into a different air filter.
Manual or auto, they'll work. I think they are just illustrating that there is more advantage with a manual, but it's a great mod for either transmission.
You can try the (almost) free cold cowl inducted air mod. If you don't like it just put the insulation back over the hole and nobody will be the wiser.cold air mod
You can try the (almost) free cold cowl inducted air mod. If you don't like it just put the insulation back over the hole and nobody will be the wiser.

Thanks Ed! (Mr Freak)
Is there a thread that explains more of what you are talking about?
I tried to keep my factory air cleaner but it's filter life minder indicated vacuum, half way to the red mark after a WOT run even with a brand new quality NAPA Gold filter with stock turbo and injectors. I went to BHAF.

I read somewhere where someone dynoed his truck with only changes was air cleaners. Stock, aftermarket cold air intake and BHAF. He made more power with BHAF even when it's sucking hot air (no "shield" was used for to shield the heat from the turbo in this test).
Thanks Ed! (Mr Freak)
Is there a thread that explains more of what you are talking about?
Tech articles under performance mods.
BHAF is the way to go. Several to choose from in the stickies.
I'm thinking about making a cold air intake system involving the BHAF, while probably not helping max power, it should help lower cruising air temps by a good amount.

Since the air isnt getting compressed much at less than 5 psi the air going to the engine should drop by roughly the amount at the inlet

I tried using the stock air box and didn't notice any increase in mileage. Didn't test long enough to notice a small difference such as 1-2 mpg though, it just increased my EGT's a lot and I couldn't hear the turbo :hehe:
BHAF is the way to go. Several to choose from in the stickies.
I will take a pic of my BHAF as It looks like this has been updated significantly, but since this is a new truck to me and my first Dodge, I'm not sure of what is stock. Thanks for all the info!!
Is it worth the money? Depends on what you want and cost. If you are after horsepower, probably not, on a single turbo anyway.

The denser the air at the compressor inlet, the less shaft horsepower is needed to run the compressor at a given boost level. This means less drive pressure for the same egt.

Two things mainly affect air density: temperature and pressure. So the less pressure drop from the filter (bhaf) and the colder the air (cold air intake), the denser it is.
At 1200 degrees egt, 65% turbine efficiency, 74% compressor efficiency, and a 2.5 pressure ratio (22 psi boost), if you drop the compressor inlet temp from 120° to 80°, It will take about 7psi less drive pressure to generate the shaft horsepower needed from the turbine to drive the compressor. This does not account for intercooler efficiency, since the calculations I did are under the presumption that one is using an air to water intercooler (which I will be someday).

The effects are even more pronounced with compound turbos. For example, I discovered that placing an additional a/w cooler between compressor stages will require 22 psi less drive pressure.

That would make the difference between having net pumping loss on the secondary turbo (more drive pressure than boost) and not having net pumping loss (boost pressure is higher than drive pressure).

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
See less See more
Looks like I have a different set up than I thought...See attached pic

Attachments

See less See more
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top