Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this month's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The passenger side coil is fine. The driver side coil is off the seat. It’s a superlift 4inch kit. The manufacturer said it’s normal. Maybe I can get a second opinion from you guys.

2017 2500
thanks.

921301
 

·
Cummins Freak
Joined
·
3,465 Posts
No not normal. But I have seen it before, you could try a power wagon isolator or Carli make a kit that fixes this problem.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: G. Mcpherson

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,114 Posts
Superlift looked at this picture and said it was normal? Remind me to Never buy anything from them!

Not normal at all. The spring is coming out of the isolator. You need to replace the isolator for starters then look at your alignment to make sure your caster is in spec so you minimize the "bow" of the spring as much as possible.


.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the information.

I took it to a shop and they tried to reseat the coil. When they put the coil back under tension it just popped out again. Is it possible that the spring is bad? The shop said that the coil has “memory”and I need to replace it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,114 Posts
Thanks for the information.

I took it to a shop and they tried to reseat the coil. When they put the coil back under tension it just popped out again. Is it possible that the spring is bad? The shop said that the coil has “memory”and I need to replace it.
Sounds like hog wash to me. It needs a new isolator for starters, then the castor set correctly. With 4" of lift you have pushed the limits of alignment for stock control arms etc. Hopefully that kit had a drop or extended control arms with it?
I highly doubt the spring is bad, I'd find another shop.


.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lins

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,098 Posts
The only way the spring has memory is if it's about to start cracking from decades of use or if it's been overloaded and pushed into yield. That's how coil springs work.

What the other folks said. First, you need a new isolator. Second, before you put it in, you need to make sure your axle is set to a reasonable caster. I see Superlift kits that have no radius arm changes, radius arm root drops, or replacement radius arms. If you have neither aftermarket radius arms nor radius arm drops, you're fighting a losing battle, since the driver's side spring setup is borderline at zero lift, let alone 4". If you have drops or aftermarket arms and they're set up for a nominal lift less than 4", than you really need to dial in all the positive caster you can on both sides, and see how the springs look then.

Oh, wait... I didn't see any replacement coils in those kits... so I assume there's a spacer somewhere I can't see. That spacer might be angled....?

Doesn't matter. You need to verify axle location and caster no matter what. If you have 4" of lift on stock undropped radius arms, drop 'em or replace 'em. That should fix your fore-aft location and your caster center point. Four inches of radius arm drop bracket seems like an invitation for failure, however. Then get the new isolator and check the caster.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jimmy N.

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I really appreciate the help everyone. We will do as suggested and hopefully report back good news!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Power Wagon isolators and you’ll be good. Make sure the coil is indexed properly when reinstalled. You DO NOT need a new coil.
Any idea what year or make power wagon isolator I need for my 2017 2500?

and should I replace both sides with the power wagon iso?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,098 Posts
If I remember correctly, the HD Power Wagon has a slight lift. If the lift is accomplished with different coils -- and I would expect Ram to do that since there are like a hundred different coils already for every combination of weight and wheelbase -- then it would be important to make sure the Power Wagon coils are indexed the same as standard coils. If they're not, then the isolators might be different to accommodate a different index.

I'm not saying it is that way. I'm just saying we need to double check unless you're sure they're correct. I can't think of any reason why the power wagon would need different isolators for another reason. Given that it's a POWER WAGON maybe Ram made a slightly more robust version for a perceived increase in offroad use, but the tooling and material management costs would make that a borderline choice. It's just not very high production numbers. It's not a complex or costly part. Why would there be a different version for a different option mix unless there's a really good reason?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,098 Posts
For that matter, if those are Superlift 4" coils, there there's a REALLY good possibility the index is already different. I know my 3" lift coils have a different index top. We need to know if those are aftermarket isolators of if the index hole has been re-drilled and the isolators rotated.

Again, not saying that's the way things are, just saying you need to be sure of everything before you start replacing parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·

pretty sure that’s the kit I have. I bought the truck it it installed. Don’t look like it comes with new isolators.

again appreciate the help.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,098 Posts

pretty sure that’s the kit I have. I bought the truck it it installed. Don’t look like it comes with new isolators.

again appreciate the help.
It's possible the kit re-used the old isolators but re-indexed them, which means the installer needed to drill a new hole and rotate the isolators into new positions. That's how my BDS kit worked. Get the instructions for the kit. Compare what they say with what you see. Make sure the end of the coil is lined up with the right spot on the isolator.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
My 2 cents would be that the track bar is too short “pulling the front end” towards the drivers side causing the spring to bow like that.
I could be wrong , just throwing it out there


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Finally got back to looking at this. The canter is set different on both sides. The passenger side is set at 11 and the spring sits correctly. On the driver side it’s set at 5 and the spring sits off the isolator.
How to I set the canter so it’s correct?

924284
924285
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,098 Posts
Rotate the right caster adjustment screw CCW until it points down and forward like the left adjustment bolt head. It's going to be tough. You can't twist the axle. You might have to disconnect the upper bolt on the right radius arm to work it loose enough to rotate that adjustment cam down. Ge whiz that's screwed up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,588 Posts
Finally got back to looking at this. The canter is set different on both sides. The passenger side is set at 11 and the spring sits correctly. On the driver side it’s set at 5 and the spring sits off the isolator.
How to I set the canter so it’s correct?
The spring perches on these trucks tilt forward naturally. Bowed springs are not uncommon. A springs off its upper seat is not normal, though.

I think EricPeterson's advice is spot on. It will at least get the cams pointing the same direction and out of the bind they are in and probably (maybe) close to where they should be.

It is a solid axle so the cross caster (difference between right and left caster) is welded into the axle and is not adjustable. What you have is an axle in a bind with the the two sides fighting each other. The cams should be set to the same spot, except in rare circumstances. I've had more than one alignment shop try to adjust cross caster by setting the cams far different from each other while they watch the numbers on their screen, looking for them to turn green. And they try to adjust caster one side (one cam) at a time, not both together. It simply does not work like that with a solid axle. The machine isn't giving them correct numbers but all they know is to crank on the adjustments and watch the numbers on the screen.

Adding a lift rotates the axle forward and reduces positive caster. The radius arms in the kit look like they tilt the axle back a lot to compensate for that. To increase positive caster more, rotate the cams toward the back. If they designed the radius arms correctly for this lift, somewhere in the middle (cam holes to the bottom of the "U") should be close to the correct setting. But if they use the same arms for kits with more/less lift then all bets are off.

You asked how to set caster correctly. If I trusted alignment shops and their electronic machines I'd say take it in and be confident they'll do it right, but I don't trust them. The last place I went to they let me hang out in the shop and talk with the guy while he was doing the adjusting. I was the one who chose the cam position. He was cranking one all the way forward and the other all the way back but he set them where I requested in the end. I chose the setting based on what I saw on the screen and from my estimates of where they should be.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top