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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

I just noticed today (actually thinking back, i noticed a little yesterday, but it's worse today) that if i'm sitting at a stop light for a while, when i go to let the clutch out, it engages MUCH earlier than normal. At this time, the pedal also doesn't "spring back" all the way when released. It only seems to do this when it is held down for more than a moment. When this happens, if i need to use it again right away, it seems that it doesn't quite disengage even when pushed to the floor, but continues pushing against the breaks until i jerk the gearshift to neutral. This is getting kind of alarming, and seems to be getting worse fast. I have searched the forum and haven't quite seen the exact situation. Please help before i run into sombody! :shock::S:
 

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Time for some new hyrdro's. Yours are showing some age and are bypassing the internal seals.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your feedback!

By Hydro's do you mean the master/slave cylinders? Please see below:

So, I tore into it tonight, and found a couple things:

1) There was no fluid in the resevoir at all

2) When I took the cap off and put fluid in, it didn't go anywhere, when pumping the pedal (I have NO pedal now, just barely made it home tonight with some "creative shifting")

3) There is a screw-in fitting at the bottom, on the slave cylinder. It was unbelievably loose, and had obviously been leaking.

I have taken the master cyl out from the firewall, and fished it down underneath. Tomorrow, i'm going to take the slave off and take them to a parts store as one unit. I don't see any way to take the line off of the master cyl? I don't know if there's anything wrong with either cylinder, or if the problem is only because the fluid leaked out...

--acorn
 

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Dodge is the only place I know of that can supply the hydro package. The 1st gen's do not have after market support.

I checked on new hydro's last week at the dealer. There are a few kits left in dealer stock across the U.S. None listed in wearhouses. I was told around $290 for a new kit.
 

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Ya I wonder why nobody makes HD upgrades for the 1st gen? They cant be much different from 2nd and 3rd gen can they? Or is there just not enough interest for them?
 

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I have both style hydro's laying on my tool box right now. There are some differences in them. BTW I have the adjustable 2nd gen style. The nonadjustable style you don't want to use.

On the later models the M/C push rod is a different length. Due to mounting differences in the two body styles. They changed the mounting configuration on the 2nd gen's. Ours uses a mounting bracket on the steering column support inside the firewall. The 2nd gen's mounted directly to the firewall with a 2 bolt flange configuration.

The 2nd gen M/C will fit the 1st gen mounting bracket. Due to the longer push rod used. It will need to be shortened to make it work. The good news its a round shaft that uses a 3/8" x 16 thread pitch. That is normal SAE spec. So shortening it is easy. The bad part is the clutch safety switch has to go. When you shorten the push road. The amount of rod needed for the safety switch is to short for proper operation. The jam nut will wipe the switch out.
 

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Ya I have the adjustable Valair HD set and like them, so it wouldnt be to hard to modify kits for the 1st gens then would it
 

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Heres an update.

The adjustable upgrade kit needs the M/C rod shortened 1.375" to be around the correct length for a 1st gen. The screw on rod end has 1" of threaded depth. So you have 1/2" to play with on dialing the length after you have the M/C mounted.

Acorn you got lucky on your problem. I am going to be starting my G56 swap this weekend. Today is the day I am working the hydro's over to fit a first gen. :D

The slave cylinder is the same. The push rod for the clutch fork is different between a 1st gen and a 2nd gen. The push rod on the getrag setup is 1" longer. The good news is the rod is the same size diameter as the second gen. The better news is the rod is not retained in the slave cylinder on eather setup. So just swap the rods and reuse the getrag boot assy. :D

I will be moving this thread to the 1st gen tech section soon.

Mfolsom it isn't hard to adapt them. As far as calling it an upgrade kit. Its kind of an under statement. The only difference is the line from the M/C to the slave cylinder. It is a stainless flex hose. Thats better than the stock plastic line. This model has the threaded rod adapter. It makes it easyer to mod. I could have did the same thing to the nonadjustable. It would have taken more time. The slave cylinder has the same casting numbers on it. So that is the same cylinder from 1989 to current year models. The M/C has different casting numbers on them. But when checking bore diameter. They both have the same bore. So the only upgrade is the flex line and adjustable push rod to allow some fudge factor due to production tolerences.

The kit I used is listed for.

2003/2004 NV4500
2000/2005.5 NV5600
2003/2009 G56
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The problem ended up being the leak at the slave fitting, and running the system dry. The leak was caused by a mangled roll pin, so the fitting wiggled around too much and leaked. I didn't know this, so the system ran dry. The biggest problem was getting the master to take fluid again from the reservior side. We solved this buy putting brake fluid in a pump-type oil can and forcing it into the master. After that it was just lots of bleeding.

Thanks for your help!

--acorn
 

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Update

So, nearly a year later, my clutch went out again. Same thing, fluid leaking out where the line fits into the slave. This time, it wasn't the roll pin. I went ahead and replaced the slave. It came with a new seal, and I figured that would stop the leak. It did, and after much bleeding again, I was back on the road. Unfortunately, 50 miles into a 300 mile trip, I realized i again had little-to-no pedal. I finished the rest of the trip timing my shifts, and turning the truck off at stoplights (no safety switch, so i could start in gear). There is no fluid leaking at all, and I can't seem to bleed anymore, so I'm assuming i need to replace the Master Cylinder now. Wondering if it would be best to for out the bucks at the dealer for the whole thing, or try the conversion you have mentioned, Philip...

--acorn
 
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