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I have a diesel problem..
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Basically what's going to be expected in changing my clutch? It is starting to slip. I have seen it done on a 7.3 but that's all my clutch experience. I have all the tools and the shop to do it.

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Some pull tranny and transfer case together. Must have good hyd. lift. remove drive shaft. drain fluid or get bath.
 

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I have a diesel problem..
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Do I have to change the fluid? Because it only has a few thousand miles.

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I'm in the process of doing that now. I bought a trans jack from Harbor freight and garbage. It was about $90.00. If your on ground level, The jack works pretty good. Lets you back out the tranny without damaging anything. I'm also replacing my rear engine seal, Throughout bearing, pilot bearing, and pivot ball. As long as I have all that out, I think I'm going to replace engine oil pan gasket because I can easily get to my engine mounts to raise my engine so I can drop the oil pan. I found it easier to remove my transfer case first. You may want to remove your oil first. If it's clean, you can reuse it. Like Dozer said, I did get a bath
As long as I'm at the back of the engine, I wonder what else I should be inspecting, replacing.
 

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I have a diesel problem..
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys .. how hard is a rear main? Mine is also leaking

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Thanks guys .. how hard is a rear main? Mine is also leaking

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There are pics of rear main install. There is also 01 FSM. Ask the professor for it. (ie Prof Google)
 

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I have a diesel problem..
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Alright I'll check it out thanks man


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When we did my dad's 01, we left the t-case attached. Disconnected the d-shaft from the axle and unbolted the carrier bearing, but left the yoke in the t-case (so no fluid loss). Unbolted the trans and rolled the whole unit backward out of the way.

Going back together was simple, just roll assembly back toward engine making sure the drive shaft doesn't come out of the case.

When you pull the shifter, leave the trans in gear. This way you can roll the drive shaft and spin the input shaft so you can align the splines when you mate the trans to the engine.
 

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did mine like 5000 miles ago...gonna do it again soon beacuse something is making noise in there. overall not a bad job just not real fun....i left tcase and trans all together....worst part is getting it all liined back up or that stupid cross over piece....
 

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Dont drain the trans, just the transfer case or you will get a bath like dozer said. You going with new flywheel or getting the old one resurfaced? Get a little graphite lube for the inpute shaft, I am about to pull mine again because I didnt lube the inpute and its a bear to get into gear from a stop.
 
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Some pull tranny and transfer case together. Must have good hyd. lift. remove drive shaft. drain fluid or get bath.
Oh come one Dozer, I have pulled my trans by hand with the case removed and full of fluid :D I agree with dozer though, I would get a jack. Start at the stick shifter and work down. stuff the housing with some rags to keep the grit out too. IMO manuals are a breeze to pull. when pulling the trans off the engine don't force it with a pry bar, you want to use the jack to get it to move back. take your time :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I am probly going to end up getting a new fly wheel...do you have to spread the frame rails to get the cross member back in?

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I am probly going to end up getting a new fly wheel...do you have to spread the frame rails to get the cross member back in?

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I took my cross member out by nocking it up and back. I didn't have to spread the frame rails.
 

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two dead blow rubber mallets will get the xmember in and out.

I also pulled trans with xfer case still attached.

very heavy if you have a 6-spd and definitely wouldn't try it without a jack...



new clutch in


white lithium on the pivot ball for the fork...

old trans and xfer case on the trans jack I got at harbor freight and being balanced by a saw horse

truck on lift lol

parts to pull to get it out

front of motor supported which also helps to line things up when stabbing the trans back in...


and I got sick of hitting my head on the lift arms...so I padded them for this particular job :hehe:
 
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I have a diesel problem..
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the pics Jigabop, is there anything to really line up besides the clutch with the tool?

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It can be a booger to line up. Have someone turning the crank while your pushing the trans in. Once you get it stabbed its gravy train, you can rotate the trans to get the bolts holes to line up. Stabbing is always the fun part. I have done 4 clutches since november and when I first tried putting my DD in I pushed for 3 hrs and could not get it to stab. Next day, my wife turned the crank while I pushed and it went in within 5 minutes. I found it easier to put the crossmember in a press and give it a pinch.
 

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turn the crank?! as in engine crank?! eeep....

I just put the trans in gear and turn the output shaft of the xfer case...got it to stab a DD clutch in a couple minutes. just took a little wiggle back and forth before it was all the way with the holes all lined up, started some bolts in and snugged it up.
 

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I worked for 3 hrs doing it like that. She actually turned it by the alternator just like setting valves.
 
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