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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am planning on changing my trans fluid and pan. I have a 2007.5 6.7L with the 68RFE trans. My questions are, is there a thread on "How to" do this and is there a drain plug or hose to drain the remaining fluid once the pan is removed? Thanks for any info.:S:
 

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To get ALL the remaining fluid out you need to drain the torque converter, trans cooler and all related hoses. A tranny flush. When I put my MagHytec pan on, I just replaced the fluid that came out with Mopar ATF. What condition is your oil in?
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oil is only about 8,000 miles old. Had a mechanic flush it in Sept. and put the factory pan back on. I've had a small drip ever since and decided if the pan was going to come off, i would go ahead and put the MagHytec pan on with Amsoil Universal ATF. Just didn't know if I could drain this at home with basic tools and limited know-how.
 

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Oil is only about 8,000 miles old. Had a mechanic flush it in Sept. and put the factory pan back on. I've had a small drip ever since and decided if the pan was going to come off, i would go ahead and put the MagHytec pan on with Amsoil Universal ATF. Just didn't know if I could drain this at home with basic tools and limited know-how.
I dont beleive you can use the Amsoil ATF in these trans just yet.. according to their website.
 

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I have heard mixed reviews regarding Amsoil in the 68rfe. It was enough to turn me off. If you decide not to use Amsoil, then it is really easy. You just need to be ready for a wide stream of oil once you unbolt the pan. MagHytec comes with new fasteners and allen keys to fit. Bolt it up, refill lost fluid (mine was about 9 liters, I think that is around 8 quarts) and then fire it up. I checked for leaks, checked the level, then went on a short drive to warm things up. Got back and checked the level again, and had another quick look for leaks. Done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
But how do you get the remaining fluid out once the pan has been dropped? Its my understanding that the pan fluids is only about 1/3 of the total that is in the transmission system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I noticed an article in Diesel World this month with a guy using Amsoil Universal in his 68rfe trans. I then emailed Amsoil today and got their reply that the Universal is suitable for the 68rfe. It is also posted on their website now as well.
 

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I noticed an article in Diesel World this month with a guy using Amsoil Universal in his 68rfe trans. I then emailed Amsoil today and got their reply that the Universal is suitable for the 68rfe. It is also posted on their website now as well.

Well now that is cool... now I can go and get the MagHytec pan I was wanting and fill her with Amsoil. I checked the site about 1.5 months ago, and back then it still said no...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You are exactly right or I would have done it in Sept.
 

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I let mine drain for several hours and changed both filters. Although I know there was still fluid in the TC it took 11 quarts to get it back to full (stock pan). I think thats an indication that most of the fluid in the tranny cooler drained.
 
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Although I know there was still fluid in the TC it took 11 quarts to get it back to full (stock pan). I think thats an indication that most of the fluid in the tranny cooler drained.
I swapped my pan out for a PLM about 20K miles ago. Didn't totally flush it. Refilled with Amsoil Universal. Absolutely no tranny shifting or other issues using the Amsoil. Either way - Mopar ATF +4 is really good stuff if you decide to just use regular tranny fluid.

Can't remember how many quarts it took, but it was way more than I was expecting. Wanna say like 12-13 or something like that.

Advice? Take your time. Let 'er drip for a while. Fill the spin-on with ATF like you would an oil filter. Don't over-tighten the plate filter screw. Once it's done dripping, clean the mounting flange with brake cleaner, use a light coat of RTV (unless you're using the Mag pan with the O-ring), and install the pan bolts in X-patterns gradually tightening in a couple passes. Use an in/lb torque wrench so you don't strip out the threads. I forget the torque spec - my PML instructions listed 'em but that was over a year ago and I can't recall.
 
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