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Catalyst FULL 100%

5K views 36 replies 14 participants last post by  Daburt 
#1 ·
I have been looking at this for a while now and am getting tired of it, seems like i might have a little power loss but not much if any, I recall a thread that i saw a while back, about using a potentiometer, or something like that on one of the many sensors fool the computer to think that it has been cleared, anyone know what i am talking about, any help would be appreciated?:thumbsup
 
#2 ·
Did you take the DPF off and not put a fooler box in? If so that is your problem. What you are talking about only works on the Cab & Chassis models. You need to get a hold of H&S or BADP and get a fooler box. You have lost power because your truck has derated.
 
#4 ·
I have all of the exhaust on at this time but, the cat and the dpf have been hollowed out. I put about 740 miles on the truck with the exhaust gutted, before the cel ever came on, dont know why it took so long, but it did! I had read somewhere on here that you could use a potentiometer, or whatever it is, to apply a certain voltage to the sensors to fool the ecm to think everything was o.k. did not know that only worked on c&c models must not have paid attention to that part, but i would think that if you knew what voltages that the sensors sent back to the computer when everything was good that you could rig something up to do the same thing!
 
#5 ·
the cat and the dpf have been hollowed out. I put about 740 miles on the truck with the exhaust gutted
this is your problem. Awile back, i was stupid enough to have someone do the same thing. I had about 100 miles on her before she started sputterin. Your truck WILL GO INTO limp mode. even though it cant be full, the engine or computer or whatever thinks it is. im pretty sure you can also burn your engine up as well.
 
#6 ·
How can it go almost 1,000 miles with no lights, and then come on, the computer system on this truck must be as slow as my dealership's service department!!!:lol3:
 
#7 ·
i really dont know. but what i do know is your truck will be effed if you dont fix it soon. limp mode is not a fun time.the only way dealer will cover it is if you were careful and didnt make any scratches inside it when hollowing it out.
 
#9 ·
You need to find someone's exhaust system that they removed, borrow it, put it back on your truck and take it to dealer. They have to reset the comuter. Then you can get the fooler box, return the exhaust to the rightful owner and then put your custom system back on.
 
#11 ·
they check realllllll close. when i had my "situation", they said that only certain bolts were shiny as in they were recently removed. i was like wtf, oh shiiii. lol. but somehow they covered it. prolly helps that my family and i are real close with the owners. a new one costs like 8K i think.
 
#14 ·
Someone posted info on how to build your own fooler box a few months ago. The information is in the 6.7 forum somewhere. You may have to do a lot of reading to find it, but it is there. I did a few searches and could not find it...you will learn lots while you look for this info at least.
 
#20 ·
Thanks bohica48...good to see a newbie that knows how to use the search function! Welcome to the forum!
That is one of the threads that explains a bit on how you can build your own fooler box. There is another one that went into more detail, but you should be able to make one given the info posted in the H&S fooler box thread.
 
#21 ·
if i remember right, put a 500 ohm resistor in place of the egt probes(3 of them), it creates approximately 1023 degrees farenheit readings for the computer, thus clearing the cat full status. but i think you'll still get a code for the differential pressure readings (not sure though)
 
#27 ·
Well, before I started with this yesterday, I had 12 codes showing
p1451 P200E
p0545 P244A
p2032 P0031
p242C p0037
p2454 p2A01
p2463 p200C

That is with all of factory exhaust in place with DPF & Cat gutted, I sealed up and mount both NO2 sensors to frame rail, placed 500 Ohm resistors in middle and rear EGT probes, left front EGT probe alone, left pressure sensor assembly plugged in and took the rear line loose from the assembly, and capped it at the sensor, left the front one in exhaust. On the way to work the overhead display went from 100% to system OK, then CEL went out, put 135 miles on it since with no lights. Stopped by local part store and checked it out with code reader, and still showed no codes. I guess we'll see how it goes!!
Thanks everyone for all of your help and input its greatly appreciated!!:thumbsup:woot::beer
 
#28 ·
Still no problems!!!!!!

Well, put another 234 miles on the truck today, from normal driving to dogging the crap out of it, and still no lights, but, my rear tires do seem to be missing about a 1/4" of tread now, so there still might be a problem! :rof:lol3::rof
 
#30 ·
Drove it again earlier and and all started again the lights came on and everything, thought that I spoke too soon, but it was just a resistor that came loose, got it back in, and it went back to normal!
 
#31 ·
I am DEFINATELY interested in hearing your long-term results. The biggest fear I have of deleting the DPF is the fact that some of the DPS guys down here in North Mexico are sticking mirrors under new trucks right now looking for exhaust work. If you've figured out a way to be "code free" as well as having the appearance of a DPF i will be following suit.
 
#33 ·
From the bottom side it appears the same as any other, my opinion its not a whole lot louder, but I was out for fuel mileage more than sound! But it does sound alot better, and it smokes now when you mash on it!!!!!!:thumbsup:peelout

All you have to do is put three resistors in the female egt plugs, to keep the cat full off, I have 1KOhm in the front, and 600 Ohm in the second, and third. It will run like that youll just o2 sensor performance codes!
 
G
#35 ·
You said earlier you left the front egt alone, here you say 1K resistor. Which is it? Also, can't you put the o2 sensors back in? Then connect the pressure lines? This has all got a little jumbled with everyone so curious. So if this actually works out in the long term, it would be nice if someone could post what exactly needs to be done, and make it a sticky like the egr delete.:thumbsup
 
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