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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
okay, so i blew my carrier bearing apart pretty much, how? idk!

i stomped on the skinny pedal as i was leaving the ranch getting on the county road. dad was behind me in his new 11' 6.7 cummins and he stomped on it also. well shifting from second to third i dropped the clutch too soon and missed the shift. finally got it into 3rd and got back on it. then to 4th, then to 5th. when i let the clutch out in fifth gear, the truck started making a hellacious noise. threw it into neutral and pulled over. my dad got out of his truck and said sparks were flying EVERYWHERE. jumped underneath the truck only to find that my drive shaft had moved towards the back of the truck and was rubbing against the blown out bearing. limped it back to the ranch and took out the drive shaft.

what im asking is why did it do this?

also, when i got back into town i went to oreily's and the carrier bearing is like 180 bucks!!! is this about right or is it over priced?

sorry for the long post. saturday night just was fun for me lol
 

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Its the same price at o'reillys for mine to. I think some guys on here are getting them off of rockauto.com for alot cheaper but im not sure so youll have to wait till someone comes around.
 

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what im asking is why did it do this?
The two piece driveshaft is a weak point that can't handle the torque of a diesel engine.
That's why Ford and GM went to a one piece driveshaft years ago, Dodge didn't figure it out till recently.
If you want a fix that lasts get a one piece driveshaft.
Someone here recently said it cost them just a little over $300.
 

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Where does one get a one piece, or does it have to be custom made.
 

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you need to get it made at drive line shop but keep in mind there are limitations to what can have a 1 piece.


length, hp, speed and lift, will all dictate what can use a 1piece.


inland empire driveline makes a wicked cool urathane encased billit carrier bearing that you guys should check out.
 

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ive nuked many carrier bearings. at one point i was pretty set on the idea of a 1pc shaft, but after talking with a reputable driveline shop i decided against it. The QCLB would leave a pretty long shaft for aluminum (strength becomes an issue) and its too long for a steel shaft (too heavy and a bytch to balance)
 

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So how does ford and GM do it? My buddy has a GM crew cab short box and it's aluminum
 

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I know when Ford made the switch to one piece they touted that the tubing wall thickness was three times thicker than the old two piece units.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i just dont feel like spending almost 200 bucks for the stock bearing and im pretty sure a one piece is out of the option considering i have a qclb and a 6" lift.
 

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The two piece driveshaft is a weak point that can't handle the torque of a diesel engine.
How about all those big box trucks I see running around with 1 or 2 hanger bearings? They seem to hold up just fine, and they weigh a helluva lot more than our trucks. I've never managed to break a hanger bearing. True, my truck only makes a little over 800 ft/lbs without the nitrous, but I'd think that I'd have had some trouble by now if they were inherently weak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
How about all those big box trucks I see running around with 1 or 2 hanger bearings? They seem to hold up just fine, and they weigh a helluva lot more than our trucks. I've never managed to break a hanger bearing. True, my truck only makes a little over 800 ft/lbs without the nitrous, but I'd think that I'd have had some trouble by now if they were inherently weak.
how long have you been running that same carrier bearing making those numbers...?
also i can see how it could be a weak point, but you do have a good point. although they are heavier i doubt they are making anywhere near the torque numbers most of us are making, and i think thats what does them in...

im not sure if that was the original bearing or not. all i know is i dont want to drop 180 bucks for something that isnt going to last me but 5 months or whatever...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
how would bigger U joints effect anything?
 

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i should have said bigger drive shafts bigger u joints and bigger carrier bearings my bad, and you don't see alot of 500 hp box trucks lol, iirc they are atleast 1480s but usually 1510 or even 1710 s if the truck is really big and usually the bigger the u joint the bigger the shaft and the bigger the carrier bearing
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
my point also.

i understand how bigger, thinker shafts would obviously be stronger. but how would bigger U joints and carrier bearings make a difference? they spin the same.

not being a smartass i really would like to know this
 

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thats like saying your going to take a ujoint off a ford ranger and put it on your truck. of course it wont last it will go out out because its the weakest point.

when off roading in full size trucks. lots of people change there stock ujoint for bigger sizes because the ujoint wont handle the power and will blow out.

but ofcourse depending on how long and the height of the truck the solid straight shaft wont work all the time. angles are different and the balance of the shaft will be impossible to balance out. for example. i truck with a 9 inch lift is going to need a lot bigger angle vs a stock height truck.
 

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my point also.

i understand how bigger, thinker shafts would obviously be stronger. but how would bigger U joints and carrier bearings make a difference? they spin the same.

not being a smartass i really would like to know this
bigger u joints are stronger than smaller ones, thats why as trucks get bigger so do the u joints a 3500 has bigger u joinst than a 1500 and a class 8 truck has 1710 and 1810 series u joints that are much much bigger thicker and stronger than our u joints same goes for the carrier bearing bigger is stronger
 
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