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Hello, I have a 2010 2500 6 speed auto on a 4 inch lift that keeps eating carrier bearings and popping drive shafts out in the road.

I purchased this truck with a new carrier bearing and after 4K miles I shredded the rubber from the carrier and The drive shaft popped out.
Will shimming the carrier bearing one inch fix the shaft popping out and the carrier bearings getting shredded? Or should I spend ~1300$ on a Texas drive shaft 92.5 inches long?
 

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A 1 piece is so much nicer than a 2 piece.
I just got 1 a couple of months ago, because carrier bearing went out at 139k.

Bought mine through a simi-local shop (55 miles), of 6 states distributors, $862 all in.
 
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1 piece is better for many reasons.
 

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What are some reasons why a one piece is better other than no carrier bearing?
I'm about due for ne drive line u joint and I figures id do the carrier bearing also.
 

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I had a 2 piece shaft for years. I have a 3 inch lift. I always had really mild vibrations. I swapped to a 1 piece and it was a substantial difference. It felt like something was missing when i first drove the truck with it. It was smoother/quieter and less vibes in the shifter (g56). I wish i made the swap sooner. I had messed w carrier bearing shims a bit to get as smooth as possible. I got it pretty good but the aluminum shaft was a massive difference. Well worth the $950.
 

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What are some reasons why a one piece is better other than no carrier bearing?
Considerably lighter
Spins easier
Seems to apply power quicker (probably in my head feeling)
Not ever having to mess with the carrier bearing again.
 
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Considerably lighter
Spins easier
Seems to apply power quicker (probably in my head feeling)
Not ever having to mess with the carrier bearing again.
Those sound like good enough reasons to me. Like I said before I'm due for new driveline u-joints anyway
Thanks for the input
 
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I totally agree w tryNto's assessment. Its weird but i felt the power came on better also. I totally figured it was in my head!
 

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I totally agree w tryNto's assessment. Its weird but i felt the power came on better also. I totally figured it was in my head!
Well to me it sounds like with a one piece driveline and the mirrors flipped out its got to be adding like 50 horse. Just Sayin
 
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Hello, I have a 2010 2500 6 speed auto on a 4 inch lift that keeps eating carrier bearings and popping drive shafts out in the road.

I purchased this truck with a new carrier bearing and after 4K miles I shredded the rubber from the carrier and The drive shaft popped out.
Will shimming the carrier bearing one inch fix the shaft popping out and the carrier bearings getting shredded? Or should I spend ~1300$ on a Texas drive shaft 92.5 inches long?
Would need more info to answer this clearly. Was the carrier bearing that came in the truck the correct one? My 1998 can have two potential bearings when I get a shop to look up a new bearing. I think that one is made by Spicer, and one is Mopar. And they are quite different. The offset distance from the cross member to the drive shaft center is different between the two bearings. Perhaps you can solve this question with a call or visit to a Dodge parts counter. They might tell you if more than one bearing is listed for that model and year. By your VIN, they might match you with the right part number, whether or not there is more than one version. Once you know the original bearing, this will give you a base line to decide about potential alteration of bearing offset for the lift kit.

I've never fitted a lift kit, but if you do not know what the correct carrier bearing offset is for your lift kit, try and contact the manufacturer. They should be happy to help. If they give you a shim spec., then that is all that you can go by. Just buy or fabricate a shim. You can get into drive shaft angle and centering issues with lift kits, and this can require measuring equipment and some specialized knowledge. But the manufacturer of your lift kit should be able to tell you if precision work is needed. Can't advise if a single piece shaft is needed or worth the cost, another question for the lift kit builder. I had an old time mechanic tell me how to center a drive shaft carrier bearing. They usually have slotted holes to give opportunity to align to center. Fit the bearing with washers between bolt heads and bearing base and turn bolts until just about almost snug. Go for a slow drive on a smooth road, and it will center itself. Then tighten the bolts. I've only done this a few times, but it seems to work. I would be careful not to make any sudden accelerations or run any steep hills with the bolts almost snug.
 

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Why did the OEM use two piece shafts then ? You're not going to convince me it was cheaper.

Frequently Asked Questions | FAQ | Drive Shafts Inc.
I don't know but I also wonder. One of my younger brothers has a 2016 CCLB with a one-piece and another has a 2019 CCLB with a two-piece. Both 3500, both SRW, both Cummins. However, the 2019 is the HO w/Aisin and 12" rear differential. Is that the difference?
 

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I don't know but I also wonder. One of my younger brothers has a 2016 CCLB with a one-piece and another has a 2019 CCLB with a two-piece. Both 3500, both SRW, both Cummins. However, the 2019 is the HO w/Aisin and 12" rear differential. Is that the difference?
Sounds like the two piece is more HD, like the Aisin. My 17 has such.
 
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