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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently put new carli control arms on approx 100 miles ago, so today i crawled under the truck to check all the bolts and make sure everything is good. But the past two days while backing out of my driveway there has been this popping noise and I noticed this today while I was under there!

All the control arms are at this angle, is this a alignment issue? If so I just have not had time to get the truck aligned.

Edit: also I have noticed that my bump steer seems to be getting worse
 

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Carli arms have spherical joints not bushings so I don't think there is an issue with the pic you posted. I'd bet you could grab them with your hand and straighten them out but they will move around where they want.
 

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That is absolutely 100% normal for arms to them to "flop" to one side or the other. It is inherent when using a spherical joint.

I would get on all of those control arm bolts again and double check your torques. 120 for the uppers and 200 for the lowers. On my trucks, I've always torqued them til they were "pretty [email protected] tight"! Control bolts will often pop when they are a little looses or under torqued.

As for the bump steering.... tell us more about your truck. Do you have an adjustable trackbar installed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have a carli track bar, I had it installed by a dodge dealer in Indianapolis and also had them do a front end alignment. Living in southeastern indiana and driving a lot of backroads, the roads are never smooth. The roads have a lot of lean left and then right, and it feels like the truck pulls one way and then pulls the other way. I kind of figured there would be a little of that but I get the same feeling even driving down state roads.
Also, when driving off road it feels like every bump I hit goes straight into the steering.

I will have to double check the torque specs again also.
 

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I have a carli track bar, I had it installed by a dodge dealer in Indianapolis and also had them do a front end alignment. Living in southeastern indiana and driving a lot of backroads, the roads are never smooth. The roads have a lot of lean left and then right, and it feels like the truck pulls one way and then pulls the other way. I kind of figured there would be a little of that but I get the same feeling even driving down state roads.
Also, when driving off road it feels like every bump I hit goes straight into the steering.

I will have to double check the torque specs again also.
Growing up in Scottsburg/Seymour area, I know exactly what you're talking about! Make sure on your toe specs that its slightly toed in. With the track bar, did they set it to the correct length for your amount of lift?

If you don't already have one, it sounds like an adjustable stabilizer should be next on the list. That REALLY helps out with road crown issues and can really tighten up the steering wander in the areas you're driving in.
 

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Like others have said, it is the spherical joints. As far as the clunking noise, we typically see loose frame side bolts on the upper control arm specs. Get those bolts tight!
Yup^^^. I re-tightened mine down and "pop" was gone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you everybody! I am getting a front end alignment tomorrow afternoon, I'm going to talk to the guy that does them just to make sure I get what I'm wanting ha
I'll keep everybody posted on how it drives after I get it back and drive around a bit.
Also, i have the carli lower steering stabilizer. I might need to check the pressure in it just to make sure all is good
 

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Thank you everybody! I am getting a front end alignment tomorrow afternoon, I'm going to talk to the guy that does them just to make sure I get what I'm wanting ha
I'll keep everybody posted on how it drives after I get it back and drive around a bit.
Also, i have the carli lower steering stabilizer. I might need to check the pressure in it just to make sure all is good
Whomever aligned it last may have dumped all the pressure.... or the pressure has never been adjusted and its pushing you all over the place. Both scenarios have similar results so just make sure they know what they're doing! If you or them have any questions, give me a call anytime!

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I don't think the popping noise you're hearing is from the control arms. The spherical joints they use are designed to allow them to move like that, so what you're seeing is pretty normal.

What is bump steer? I've heard a lot of people talk about it but I don't even know what it is.
I would LOVE to take you for a drive in my truck to show you what bump steer is and looks like. Before I put both the upper and lower stabilizer shocks on (Carli) it was horrible. Now it is merely irritating but under control. I suspect (and visiting with Craig at Strapt) that it may actually be the new Mopar 6-bolt steering box with slop. While installing the lower stabilizer shock, I reached up and grabbed ahold of the steering shaft and torqued it around and what I saw was the steering box was allowing a good 3/4 to 1" of slop IN THE BOX from rotation of the steering shaft. This without any movement in the pitman arm.

I had radical bad feedback in the steering wheel upon hitting bumps or just road irregularities. At times it was so bad it would literally put the truck into the next lane totally unannounced and if not on top of it could be really dangerous. It is my goal to finally fix this problem once and for all. Fortunately it is somewhat tamed due to the twin steering stabilizer shocks but it is obvious the steering is still not right. I really regret having had the new steering linkage and box installed. Someday I want to remove all of it and install some after-market linkage, pump, and gear box if and when I can find some parts to replace these with.
 

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Thank you everybody! I am getting a front end alignment tomorrow afternoon, I'm going to talk to the guy that does them just to make sure I get what I'm wanting ha
I'll keep everybody posted on how it drives after I get it back and drive around a bit.
Also, i have the carli lower steering stabilizer. I might need to check the pressure in it just to make sure all is good
If you are having wandering and bump steer, and your track bar and drag link are at the same angle, check the following:

Toe in
Caster
Steering gear play
Ball joints

You want your truck to drive right WITHOUT a steering stabilizer, never use one to mask problems with other components.
 

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Whomever aligned it last may have dumped all the pressure.... or the pressure has never been adjusted and its pushing you all over the place. Both scenarios have similar results so just make sure they know what they're doing! If you or them have any questions, give me a call anytime!

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I have a question. Is it possible to do an alignment yourself? I always wonder if the people I'm taking my truck to actually do an alignment or if they just hold it a few hours and say they did. Not sure I'd even know if only minor adjustments were needed.

One more. I've noticed since changing my suspension that my front tires look a little "squatty"...as in not completely vertical. I never really noticed this before and I'm not sure that changing the suspension would have anything to do with that on a solid axle truck, but is that something an alignment would fix? I just don't want my new tires wearing on the inside and not the outside.


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If you are having wandering and bump steer, and your track bar and drag link are at the same angle, check the following:

Toe in
Caster
Steering gear play
Ball joints

You want your truck to drive right WITHOUT a steering stabilizer, never use one to mask problems with other components.

Agree with above HOWEVER: Every part in the entire drivetrain except the transfer case and the axles/housings has been literally replaced with new parts. MOPAR: new 6-bolt steering box. New "T" 08.5+ steering linkage.
Carli: New adjustable track bar. New torsion sway bar. New 1/2" longer control arms. New 3" leveling kit. New upper / lower Bilstein steering stabilizer shocks. New Bilstein 5100s (due to go away when I get some more money to do that). DynaTrac: New ball joints (intend to replace with the Carli ball joints I wanted to start with). SpynTec: New manual locking hubs/Timken bearings/Spicer u-joints. Alignment has been checked twice and both times the specs looked good on computer alignment systems (different shops). No indicated problems from either shop.

There are no shops in Corpus Christi that will touch my truck with all these non-stock parts installed due to "liability". I refuse to let the shop that did all the work to start with to touch my truck again. Ever. I have to drive my truck to get to work. Not optional. I believe that the bulk of the problem is in the steering box due to observed slop on input vs. no movement at all in the pitman arm (output). I fixed the torsion sway bar issue by correctly adjusting the linkages so that the sway bar can now work. I suspect the ball joints may not have been installed properly but cannot verify until remove/replace (I suspect the ball joints lower were never lubricated due to no grease fittings installed and those take most of the weight so they might be sticking and contributing to this problem. I am not positive that is the case though).

I do not see any other evidence of wear or slop anywhere else in the steering linkage that is obvious. WITH the two steering stabilizer shocks installed I can safely drive my truck the 306 miles to get to work and back home at week end. I have a company car to use while there. I spent $9700 on all this work and parts so I need to save some more money to proceed further. That figure does not include the cost of the new drive shafts and huge Spicer u-joints to fix the driveline vibrations after they replaced the original u-joints -OR- the rear spindle seals that were destroyed after they installed the Carli mini-spring packs and oil-soaked the e-brake shoes with differential fluid. OR the full brake job I did after they destroyed the rotors by beating them off with a sledge hammer. Etc Etc.

So that's where I'm at on this. It sucks but that is the way it is. :banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Come to find out nobody in my area will do a front end alignment because I have aftermarket tires and rims
 

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I have a question. Is it possible to do an alignment yourself? I always wonder if the people I'm taking my truck to actually do an alignment or if they just hold it a few hours and say they did. Not sure I'd even know if only minor adjustments were needed.
Absolutely! We do them all the time this way. Caster should be set to noon with the Carli arms. You can play around with this a little if you want but they're designed to put the caster at noon to make it as simple as possible for the end user. Crazy what good engineering will accomplish! :p Camber obviously can't be adjusted. Toe can be measured with a you, a buddy and a tape measure and adjusted simply on the linkage. From there, tune your stabilizer to correct for road crown and tire pull, straighten out your steering wheel (if needed) and you're all done!

One more. I've noticed since changing my suspension that my front tires look a little "squatty"...as in not completely vertical. I never really noticed this before and I'm not sure that changing the suspension would have anything to do with that on a solid axle truck, but is that something an alignment would fix? I just don't want my new tires wearing on the inside and not the outside.
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Sounds like you need to air up your tires. Yes, the suspension did add some weight to the truck (maybe 250 lbs all around) and that's not going to be enough to squat out your tires.
 

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You want your truck to drive right WITHOUT a steering stabilizer, never use one to mask problems with other components.
I agree and don't agree with that statement. To use it to take out slop out of worn out components.... you're ABSOLUTELY right! That is the worst way to fix a problem by fixing the symptoms and not the cause.

But stabilizers still have a place to correct for road crown and tire pull. God knows I hate driving trucks that have Toyos with the stab is not attached.... nothing like driving a straight line with the wheel ed to the left. :party018:
 

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Absolutely! We do them all the time this way. Caster should be set to noon with the Carli arms. You can play around with this a little if you want but they're designed to put the caster at noon to make it as simple as possible for the end user. Crazy what good engineering will accomplish! :p Camber obviously can't be adjusted. Toe can be measured with a you, a buddy and a tape measure and adjusted simply on the linkage. From there, tune your stabilizer to correct for road crown and tire pull, straighten out your steering wheel (if needed) and you're all done!



Sounds like you need to air up your tires. Yes, the suspension did add some weight to the truck (maybe 250 lbs all around) and that's not going to be enough to squat out your tires.
Here's what I'm talking about. If you look at the pic below, my front tires most resemble the upper right...although not to that extreme. And sometimes it isn't even noticeable. Just depends on where and how the truck is sitting.



That's what I mean when I say "squatting". That's camber, right? And there's no adjustment for that?

When you say the caster should be set to noon, you're referring to that little clock looking thing at the front of the lower control arm, correct? If so, I have those set at noon. That's where they were before so that's where I put them back. So I guess I should be okay there.

I don't know about toe but I'm not experiencing any pulling or funky action in the front end so I tend to think it's okay. I guess to check that you just measure from tire to tire, correct?

Sorry for all the questions. I like to do as much as I can myself, but I've never messed with alignment stuff. At least not knowingly.
 

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If your tires look like that then you could have very well 1- bent your axle or 2- as in Craig from Strapt, had a stuck ball joint from repetitively beating his truck into submission... on purpose.
 
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