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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Such a L O N G story, but, the idiot installing a used garbage trans in my 2500 now says the truck will not roll.

Claims the rear pinion is locked.

Last week I stopped by to see him and the rear of the truck was jacked in the air. The driver side wheel was on the ground and the passenger side was 3 feet in the air. What are the odds the rea end was damaged big time due to this twist?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
unfortunately no
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The rear end is locked and not moving. The idiot says the emergency brakes are on but he did not push the e-brake pedal...This is a moronic event that I should have seen coming a mile away.....I am afraid he either wasted the wheel bearings on the driver side or the brakes are twisted and bound in the drum...
 

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Why are you installing a garbage trans in your words, disconnect the driveline and see what happens I would lean that way jacking the truck that way should do nothing to it unless you had something already broken or about to break just my .02

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It was sold as a rebuild trans with 15K miles. There is no trans or drive shafts in the truck.

It will not roll, or so they tell me. I am 120 miles away from the truck. I am trying to figure out why it won't roll. I drove it into the shop. I have driven it 250-400 miles a week and had no noise--no problems.
 

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I am not sure of you have a 5 speed (dana 80) or an automatic (dana 70)

Either way look at the links below. With what an axle can support shown by the manufacturer I see no way it could ever be hurt by part being on a floor jack. The springs, maybe (although highly unlikely), but not the axle.

Dana 80 Axles | Crate Axle

Dana 70 Axles | Crate Axle

If they moved the axle to far it may have stretched the already rusty and untrusty emergency brake cables. That could pull hard and stick hard from the axle movement. I would bet far more on the emergency brake sticking accidentally (or maybe being overstretched) instead of the axle being hurt by this situation.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I am not sure of you have a 5 speed (dana 80) or an automatic (dana 70)

Either way look at the links below. With what an axle can support shown by the manufacturer I see no way it could ever be hurt by part being on a floor jack. The springs, maybe (although highly unlikely), but not the axle.

Dana 80 Axles | Crate Axle

Dana 70 Axles | Crate Axle

If they moved the axle to far it may have stretched the already rusty and untrusty emergency brake cables. That could pull hard and stick hard from the axle movement. I would bet far more on the emergency brake sticking accidentally (or maybe being overstretched) instead of the axle being hurt by this situation.
POSSIBLE>? The truck was at an extreme angle. It is a southern truck (Florida) so may be if the dolts release the e-brake? I will call and see what the status is. It is a 47re trans.

THANKS
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
They still cannot figure out how to free the rear wheels to move the truck. Not sure if it is the brakes or....?
 

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If the truck went into place under its own power or even if it was pushed by hand any problem it has now would be the fault of the mechanic. They should not charge you for fixing their mistake. Having said that, I expect the brakes are locked up hard.

The way to figure it out is simple. Take the tires off. Now turn the driveshaft. Does at least one tire turn? (assuming you have an open differential and not limited slip) If one wheel turns the problem is in the brakes. If the neither side will turn they still should remove the brakes first. Only then after the brakes are away from the drums should the axle itself be looked at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If the truck went into place under its own power or even if it was pushed by hand any problem it has now would be the fault of the mechanic. They should not charge you for fixing their mistake. Having said that, I expect the brakes are locked up hard.

The way to figure it out is simple. Take the tires off. Now turn the driveshaft. Does at least one tire turn? (assuming you have an open differential and not limited slip) If one wheel turns the problem is in the brakes. If the neither side will turn they still should remove the brakes first. Only then after the brakes are away from the drums should the axle itself be looked at.
They say they will get it on a trailer tomorow and bring it to me. I am taking it to a real shop and have the transmission rebuilt and the rear end looked at..

They said both tires were off the ground and still did not turn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I am going to pull the drums and see what is going on with the brake shoes---when it gets here this late morning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
They are telling me the drum(s) will not come off. What needs to be done to get the drums off? These numbskulls have been trying for 3 days.
 

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They are telling me the drum(s) will not come off. What needs to be done to get the drums off? These numbskulls have been trying for 3 days.
I think you better cut you losses and not let them touch it any more. As mentioned you can isolate it to the axle vs the brakes by just unbolting the axle (all the smaller bolts at the very center of the axle). If the wheels turn it's a differential issue. If not it's a brake issue. Back the adjusters all the way off. Even if something is wedged in there you should be able to back the adjusters off enough to get it spinning and eventually the drum off. If you can ever get the drums to turn it may take a lot of beating on then to break the rust bond at the mating surface.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
I think you better cut you losses and not let them touch it any more. As mentioned you can isolate it to the axle vs the brakes by just unbolting the axle (all the smaller bolts at the very center of the axle). If the wheels turn it's a differential issue. If not it's a brake issue. Back the adjusters all the way off. Even if something is wedged in there you should be able to back the adjusters off enough to get it spinning and eventually the drum off. If you can ever get the drums to turn it may take a lot of beating on then to break the rust bond at the mating surface.
I still have to get it outta their shop. They can't even get it on a trailer. I figure if they can tow it to me at least I get some of the $700 back. They have agreed to give me $400 and the tow. I am 120 miles east of theses guys./
Where in the FSM can I find the rear axle removal / unbolting so I can send these geniuses a PDF.
 
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I'm not a doctor...or a mechanic for that matter...but if you DROVE it to their shop, then they supposedly worked on it...and something happened when it was there, it is THEIR fault.

Make them fix it or tell them to send it to a dodge dealer to have it fixed. I don't trust any mechanics to work on my stuff which is why I do my own work. At least the dealer will hopefully fix whatever THEY break.

Just trying to help out...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I'm not a doctor...or a mechanic for that matter...but if you DROVE it to their shop, then they supposedly worked on it...and something happened when it was there, it is THEIR fault.

Make them fix it or tell them to send it to a dodge dealer to have it fixed. I don't trust any mechanics to work on my stuff
which is why I do my own work. At least the dealer will hopefully fix whatever THEY break.

Just trying to help out...
Generally I am the same, but at 53 it is getting harder to put in those transmissions.
I am sure the problem stems from having lifted the passenger side wheel 3 feet and keeping the driver side wheel on the ground.

Iy is a clean southern truck and the parts typically fall off once the nuts and bolts are off. I changed the front wheel bearings and once I had the four bolts outta the hub it just fell out.
 
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