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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Some info from Zach pulled from another forum. May help some that are having issues that dont know where to turn.


Cams



Name: Hamilton Cams
Title: ignorant
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Liberty Hell, TX
Member`s Gallery Posts: 2,504


6.7l with VGT
We have been contacted by a lot of owners with 6.7l engines wondering what they can do to help with blown head gaskets on their 6.7l.

Doing a cam will allow a higher volume of air through the engine at most rpm. in other words a cam will push your turbo harder and since the VGT charger has a hard time keeping drive pressures in check with mild tuning a cam will increase this effect. All that said, the best cam for the 6.7l is the 188-208. With the smaller exhaust profile, it will add the least amount of drive pressure of any of our cams.

The most important thing that cam be done though to help the situation if you plan to keep the VGT charger is heavier valve springs. One major cause to higher cylinder pressures is reversion. With drive pressures exceeding 80psi in many instances, the exhaust valve is blown off the seat when the piston is on it's downward travel on the intake stroke. When only fresh air through the intake is supposed to be entering the cylinder, the exhaust valve, in this instance will allow a large volume of spent gasses to enter the cylinder. This creates a situation when there is very high cylinder pressures which aid greatly compromising the head gasket.

In my personal 6.7l we ran about 900hp with no fire-rings on the stock gasket with only studs. Valve springs, WILL help you keep that gasket in check if you plan on keeping the VGT charger.

Zach
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Good info. Do you happen to know if the 188-208 is a newer version? I'm planning on full motor build this winter with P&P head and valve job and a cam is part of it and I just keep seeing the 188-220 (I think that's what it is off top of head). Wonder if that's the all around best cam for all 6.7's or just the vgt guys?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Good info. Do you happen to know if the 188-208 is a newer version? I'm planning on full motor build this winter with P&P head and valve job and a cam is part of it and I just keep seeing the 188-220 (I think that's what it is off top of head). Wonder if that's the all around best cam for all 6.7's or just the vgt guys?

I'm running he 188/220 and it works great for a big single. I'm pretty sure the 208 was released after the 220. I would give Zach at Hamilton a buzz to confirm though.
 

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yea, that's what I figured you were running. Seems like the the cam you have would be better for larger turbo's but I will def give him a call. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yea, that's what I figured you were running. Seems like the the cam you have would be better for larger turbo's but I will def give him a call. Thanks

I really feel bad right now!! I have been abusing my truck doing these freaking data logs all day, and to top it off i forget to select the pids for logging.:banghead: My tuner dude e-mails me and says the speed looks good but i cant see anything else.:doh::banghead: At least the new prototype one off frictions in the tranny don't seem to mind.:drool2: :hateit::rant:

:backtotopic:
 

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2 thumbs up for Zachs customer service. Sent him a long email regarding his cams, and he sent me back one 3 times as long explaining everything.
I really appreciate this in a business and am prepared to pay more on a quality informed sale vs quick sale with bs info or very little info.

Quality Customer Service...

Thanks Zach, your effort was well noted.
 

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I really feel bad right now!! I have been abusing my truck doing these freaking data logs all day, and to top it off i forget to select the pids for logging.:banghead: My tuner dude e-mails me and says the speed looks good but i cant see anything else.:doh::banghead: At least the new prototype one off frictions in the tranny don't seem to mind.:drool2: :hateit::rant:

:backtotopic:
Haha, she doesn't mind. Hammer her all day and apologize tonight. Oh btw, the pid's are kinda important! :hehe: LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Haha, she doesn't mind. Hammer her all day and apologize tonight. Oh btw, the pid's are kinda important! :hehe: LOL
I'm not going to lie, EFI and i do not get along at all. I guess I'm going to break down and take a class somewhere so i can at least fix my dashboard back to where it can read the things i need, instead of things like spark etc etc...:doh:
 

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I'm not going to lie, EFI and i do not get along at all. I guess I'm going to break down and take a class somewhere so i can at least fix my dashboard back to where it can read the things i need, instead of things like spark etc etc...:doh:
haha, no need to understand, that's why I have ole Ryan on speed dial. Heck, I'm doing good to even open the tune, much less load it :banghead:
 

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Do you need to fly cut or do anything special for the 188/220. I read up on this a while back, but I forgot.
 

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No, theres no fly cut needed. I think its one of his standard cams
 

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I thought the 188/220 you need to check. Especially if you are running aftermarket connecting rods. Most of the time they dont need to be cut but I thought there was a few special circumstances. Somebody correct me if I am wrong.
 

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It is the installers responsibility to check clearance! No ifs, ands or buts about it!!
Ok. I sense I little bit of tension behind this topic. I was just curious if it required modification or not. Im assuming it has been different in all cases? Some do and some dont. Did someone try to drop one in, and when it didnt work, they tried to blame someone else?
 

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Yeah I think there was a thread over on CompD about it awhile back.
 

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Ok. I sense I little bit of tension behind this topic. I was just curious if it required modification or not. Im assuming it has been different in all cases? Some do and some dont. Did someone try to drop one in, and when it didnt work, they tried to blame someone else?
No tension here. Zach will tell you the same thing, clearance has to be checked. But to answer your question, there are some threads on CompD where someone had issues with a "drop in" cam.
 

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All I can say is there is NO Way I would have a cam installed without degreeing it in. My motor is apart now getting #1 sleeved because the engine shop did not degree my cam in. It is going to cost me about 5000 to go through it again from the engine shops mistake. It hit the intake valves when the tranny input shaft broke and that should never happen. If anything the piston is chasing the exhaust valve and that is where the issue of clearance should be.
 
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Damn....that sucks. Its a little while off for me still. It may not even happen for this.truck. I want.to build an engine and just do a whole engine swap when its ready. Ill do some more research on it.
 

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All I can say is there is NO Way I would have a cam installed without degreeing it in. My motor is apart now getting #1 sleeved because the engine shop did not degree my cam in. It is going to cost me about 5000 to go through it again from the engine shops mistake. It hit the intake valves when the tranny input shaft broke and that should never happen. If anything the piston is chasing the exhaust valve and that is where the issue of clearance should be.
:shock: That sucks man! I feel for you. Reading this sent shivers down my spine. I agree 100% that you should ALWAY'S triple check clearence's. I was just under the impression it was the "drop in cam" but you know how that term can be completely skewed sometime's. Good luck getting it back together
 
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