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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need some guidance on guage installs. Where does everyone tie into for power. Switched, and 12 volts for lighting? I had a setup before, but I want to compare it to what everyone else has done. I had a body control module failure, and am paranoid it had something to do with what I tapped into. Probably not, but who knows. I need power for 5 autometer guage lights (no idea power consumption of the bulbs), and 12volt switched for the pyro and the electric LP guage.

I really hope someone has pics or a great description. I can also check your ideas with my 3rd gen Dodge manual on disc if I know where to start to look!


Cheers and thanks!

Chad
 

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For switched power, you can tap into some wires readily accessable under your dash. For lights on my gauges, I popped the headlight switch out and tapped into one of those wires so that I could dim/brighten the aftermarket gauges along with the factory ones.

Check out this link for specifics and pictures.................good luck.
3-Gauge Install Pictures
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You dont think that with 5 additional bulbs it would cause excess draw on the system?

You only listed a wire that is in 2006-2007 trucks under the dash for switched. Is there a readily accessable one on a 2004? I had a wire under the dash that was the size of a small city. I tapped into that one before. I am just worried about pulling power off of existing circuits. The dimmer tap worries me, as you are loading the resistor in the dimmer a lot more because of the additional pull from the new bulbs.

Maybe I am just being too cautious? I do know that all of my locations for connections are the same as yours as far as pyro and fuel. Where do I get the adapter for the trans test port?
Awesome article btw!

Thanks a LOT!

CHeerZ
CHad
 

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You dont think that with 5 additional bulbs it would cause excess draw on the system?

You only listed a wire that is in 2006-2007 trucks under the dash for switched. Is there a readily accessable one on a 2004? I had a wire under the dash that was the size of a small city. I tapped into that one before. I am just worried about pulling power off of existing circuits. The dimmer tap worries me, as you are loading the resistor in the dimmer a lot more because of the additional pull from the new bulbs.

Maybe I am just being too cautious? I do know that all of my locations for connections are the same as yours as far as pyro and fuel. Where do I get the adapter for the trans test port?
Awesome article btw!

Thanks a LOT!

CHeerZ
CHad
Diesel manor sells the adapter for the trans test port, but I would suggest tapping into the output line to the tranny cooler. That seems to be the preferred location.

Not sure about the wiring question other than to say I've had no issues with mine at all.
 

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I ran a wire from the fuse panel, taping into a switched fuse, for my power. There are lots of wires under the dash that you can use, but like me, you have a good bit to power up and I didn't like the flimsy wires under the dash. Tapping into a fuse and running the wire through the firewall with the gauge wires/tubing might be your best bet. :thumbsup For dimming, if you pop the headlight switch out of the dash, there should be an orange wire with black stripe on the 04's. That is the one you want to tap for your dimming signal. :thumbsup
 

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I got all three of my guages powered off of the black and orange dimmer wire and no problems,5 might be pushing it though
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I ran a wire from the fuse panel, taping into a switched fuse, for my power. There are lots of wires under the dash that you can use, but like me, you have a good bit to power up and I didn't like the flimsy wires under the dash. Tapping into a fuse and running the wire through the firewall with the gauge wires/tubing might be your best bet. :thumbsup For dimming, if you pop the headlight switch out of the dash, there should be an orange wire with black stripe on the 04's. That is the one you want to tap for your dimming signal. :thumbsup
(AK RAM) How did you tap the fuse, and which one? As for the dimmer, how many bulbs are you running off of it?
 

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In my 2005 I had a spare fuse spot that didn't have a fuse in it.. It was switched so I put in a add a fuse (one fuse stacks on another) so I didn't have to figure out what wire under the fuse box I needed. I then slotted the fuse box cover and installed a rubber grommet in the slot with the sire running through the grommet, this kept the fuse box water tight..

For the lights I pulled the light switch and with a test light found the dimmer wire and tapped it.. the gauges will dim with the dash lights..

For the trans on mine I had the mag tech trans pan with a pre tapped hole for a trans temp sender.. I know this is not the preferred method by some but I just put the sender in the trans pan...

Gerry
 

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on my 04.5 I used a fused wire from the battery for constant power and I used the empty fuse located in the engine compartment marked for the rear window defroster.I am powering a oil,fuel,andboost pressure and a trans temp and egt.I removed the pan and welded in a fitting for my sending unit
 

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I did this write up over on dieselram initially. Then I put it up on TDR. TDR published it in Issue 52 of their Quarterly Newletter/Magazine.

I had a heck of a time deciding what mounting method I was going to go with. I use the cubby under the climate controls way too much. Overhead would have been ok; I just didn’t want to have to glance up all the time. There wasn’t anyway I was going to lose the grab handle with a 3 gauge pillar mount. The single or the dbl steering mount was way out of the question. It covers up too much of the dash for me. I finally opted for the dash mount. The dash mount comes in black and that wasn't going to fly. I went to the local Dodge dealer and got the Mopar interior only paint. The A-pillar's actual color is Light Taupe and the darker dash top is Taupe. The Dodge part# of the Taupe is 5003521-AA. After lightly sandblasting the Dash Pod, I sprayed 8 coats of paint (which go on like water and dry almost instantly) then 3 coats of Acrylic Clear. To get the top dash panel off, slide a 1" wide putty knife under the lip and pry up all the way across. The metal clips will release. After all the clips are popped, lift up slightly and pull back so the forward clips release. Lay out where the dash pod will attach and then drill for mounting. AutoMeter makes the dash pod. One thing disturbing... The aluminum-mounting bracket for the pod has 4 threaded inserts on it for mounting purposes. Two screws mount the bracket to the dash. The other two screws attach the pod to the bracket. The inserts are 8-32 thread size. They sent regular sheet metal screws for mounting it. I was like, "wtf?” I ran to the local Ace Hardware and got two stainless 8-32 button head screws for the outside, and regular steel for the underside. I used connectors on the +pos and -neg wires for the gauge lights so it would be easier to work on if the need arises. First pic lightly sand blasted. Second pic everything wired and ready to be mounted. Third pic wires coming through the top of the dash. I used a 3/4" spade drill to drill the hole. It made for a very easy wire run. Fourth and fifth pic mounted. Fifth pic night shot.











 

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Next came the +pos wiring for the gauges. You want them on only when the dash lights are on, and dim when the dash lights dim. The headlight light switch pops right off with ease. You need to splice into the orange with black tracer. Problem is, there are 3 of those wires. Here you can see the wire you need to splice into.



The control boxes (Pyro and Tranny Temp) require +12v. Find a +pos power source that comes on when the key is turned on unless you want the gauge control boxes always powered. The cig lighter is perfect for this since the key needs to be on for it to be powered (The auxiliary +12v power connector always has power even with the key off). When using the cig lighter for the power source, splice into the pink wire. Remove the climate control/radio panel by removing the screw behind the plastic hook just to the right of the climate controls, then pull gently. The whole front panel pops right off. First pic is the splice and the second pic where I mounted the two control boxes. I used an inline fuse for the control boxes with a 2a fuse. The metal brace right below the fuse link is perfect for a common ground.





I opted to go with the boost bolt instead of drilling and tapping the air inlet. It’s a straight and forward install. I used blue locktite on the boost bolt to hold the bolt in and give it a good seal.



Here is a pic of the Thermocouple installed. There is no right or wrong way to drill and tap the thermocouple hole. SOme like to start the engine so the chips blow outward and some like to use grease on the drill bit and tap to hold the shavings. IMO don't waste your time. Drill and tap it. Then use a pen magnet to get all the filings out of the exhaust manifold. Install the thermocouple and start the truck. Any minuscle shavings that are left will blow right through the turbo causing no damage. There are many many many trucks out there that did it this way and I have yet to hear of a turbo failure doing it this way. I have 50,000 miles on the truck since the install and all is well.

 

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Tranny temp probe. I put this line together for $42 total. Mass diesel sells the exact same thing for $80 plus shipping or so. Here’s the breakdown for the line. This is the only true way on the 48RE to get accurate real time temp numbers. The tranny pan isn’t accurate since it shows the temp of the fluid after it has gone through both coolers. None of the test ports will give you a true reading either.

Line part# 52028920-AH. $12 from Dodge.
Line cut and flared with b-nuts for -8AN. $8 from local hose shop.
Earl's Performance pressure gauge adapter -8AN both ends with 1/8" npt port. Summit part# EAR-100196ERL. Aeroquip and Russell also make them. $14 from summit racing which included handling/shipping charges that were divided between the 3 things I ordered.
Tax, fuel, my time - $8.
90° and 1/8" npt double ended connector. $4 from Home Depot. (Needed even if Mass Diesel line was used.)

What irks the crap out of me is why Isspro uses such a huge probe tip. There are other manufacturers that have smaller tips. I opted to run the brass 90° to keep the tip out of the tranny fluid path even though that would be ideal. Reason I did not put the probe tip IN the path is because you obstruct at least 75% of the fluid flow. I threw in the pic of the tranny pan since I was changing the tranny fluid at the same time of installing the tranny temp probe/line. That is what it looked like with 36,000 miles on it. I don't think the previous owner changed it.







 

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Since I have an automatic, running the wires and boost tube was a piece of cake. There is a plastic cover where the clutch slave cylinder rod would go through if you have a standard tranny. I drilled a hole through the plate. Remember to protect all the wires and boost tube from chaffing on anything. It took me about 8 hours total to do all this.

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
In my 2005 I had a spare fuse spot that didn't have a fuse in it.. It was switched so I put in a add a fuse (one fuse stacks on another) so I didn't have to figure out what wire under the fuse box I needed. I then slotted the fuse box cover and installed a rubber grommet in the slot with the sire running through the grommet, this kept the fuse box water tight..

For the lights I pulled the light switch and with a test light found the dimmer wire and tapped it.. the gauges will dim with the dash lights..

For the trans on mine I had the mag tech trans pan with a pre tapped hole for a trans temp sender.. I know this is not the preferred method by some but I just put the sender in the trans pan...

Gerry
Add a fuse? Got a link or pic?

Chad
 

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go to CTC and get the piece that goes in with the fuse, and tie into the one that runs the lights......gages draw so little.
 

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(AK RAM) How did you tap the fuse, and which one? As for the dimmer, how many bulbs are you running off of it?
I don't remember which it was. I used a cheap $2.00 12-volt test light (Wal-Mart) to find a fuse that was switched (power with key on, no power with key off). If I remember right, there were 5 or 6 fuses that would have worked just fine, but I chose a spare fuse spot (that was switched) and didn't have a fuse in it like Gerry posted earlier. Pull the fuse, wrap your wire around the prong or get a real fuse tap like Graphic man suggested (it looks much cleaner) and push the fuse back in.

All of my gauges were dimming off the dimmer switch. 4 of them at the time. I currently have just one. The dimmer feature is kind of like a relay. The signal from the dimmer wire triggers the gauges to dim, but the gauge is not pulling its main power from it. That is still coming from your main fuse tap (or wherever your drawing main power). You could use the single dimmer wire to dim 12 gauges if you wanted and it wouldn't hurt a thing.


Very nice write-up NavyDood! :woot: Mind if I pull your instructions out of this thread, make a separate thread out of it, and put it in our 3rd Gen Tech Articles forum?
 

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Not a problem
 

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