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Discussion Starter #61
Yeah... if I probe the ecm and that shows stuff ok, I'll look for the other fuse boxes. If it all checks out, I will bring the truck to work and use the aircraft equipment to find the issue.

Just a matter of time before I solve it.

I also already ordered the seals for the front diff and got 3 qts of redline 75w110 gear oil for refill.
 

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Fun fun!
 

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AFAIK, for 03-04 stock truck, no other fuse box, all fuse/relays are in engine compartment fuse box (PDC)
Power windows have circuit breaker under dash.
Never had good luck with clamp meter for 12 volt low amp circuits.
let truck go to sleep check at pdc with amp meter.
If you don't know where is ECM is you really should spend some time under the hood and familiarize your self with 3rd gen by reading FSM and other info found here.
 

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Turbols, when I sold my 03 I think I forgot to give the guy my shop manual on DVD. If you think about it, PM me right away in January, when I’m back home, and I will see if I can find it. If I have it, I’ll send it to you free/gratis. Craig
 
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Discussion Starter #66
Found put last night that the reverse lights, with new bulbs, dont work... there is likely a bad reverse switch on the trans or a nicked wire somewhere... doh!
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Found put last night that the reverse lights, with new bulbs, dont work... there is likely a bad reverse switch on the trans or a nicked wire somewhere... doh!
Edit* found a blown fuse in the engine bay, but no only the passenger side reverse light works... looks like more wiring issues.
 

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Probe the light socket for power. It could be corrosion or a bad bulb. I kind of remember a lot of T connections in the wiring loom over the back axle/spare tire area, where one wire would split into two and go to the left and right sides, just in case you need to dig into the wiring farther. Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Bulbs are new for all 6 in the back. I will check for continuity though. There is likely something corroded as you suggest.
 

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LILL BLU - '03 Ram 3500 QCSB, 4WD, 6 spd SLT Laramie, MBRP 4" turbo-back exhaust.
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And early 03 problem was with the steel alternator bracket cracking but mine never did....... Craig
That's an issue i've never heard mentioned before.

I replaced my alternator at 357K kms without noticing any issues with the bracket.

My truck currently has 464K kms on it, and you made me walk outside at break and take another look, LOL!

My truck was built Nov/02 btw.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
So, update on the driveshaft. At the recommendation of DSI, I removed the front shatt between the transfer case and the front diff. The vibrations I was experiencing from 70MPH to 85MPH or so all but went away.

This means my front diff does need work, possibly beyond the seals I bought for it. Is there a preferred mfr of bearings for these?

On my FWD honda cars, I use token. Here's hoping it's the same on these rigs.
 

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LILL BLU - '03 Ram 3500 QCSB, 4WD, 6 spd SLT Laramie, MBRP 4" turbo-back exhaust.
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So, update on the driveshaft. At the recommendation of DSI, I removed the front shatt between the transfer case and the front diff. The vibrations I was experiencing from 70MPH to 85MPH or so all but went away.

This means my front diff does need work, possibly beyond the seals I bought for it. Is there a preferred mfr of bearings for these?

On my FWD honda cars, I use token. Here's hoping it's the same on these rigs.
Before diving into that diff, i would take your front DS to a driveline shop, and have the balance checked on it - especially if it's a Cardan style shaft.

Then, after the balance of the assembly was checked, i would then have them replace all of the u-joints. Wouldn't hurt with the mileage on them, as well as not knowing the service history of the truck.

You can tackle the Cardan joint yourself, it's not extremely difficult, just pay close attention to everything as you disassemble it, AND WATCH FOR THE SPRING. Be sure to have a clean work area on your bench to lay everything out in order of disassembly. Take pics as you go along as well, if that'll help. It saves you guessing upon reassembly, lol!
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Thanks for the heads up on the spring! Is there a recommended driveshaft shop for these or is it more of a generic check?

For example, I use Raxles for my honda road and race cars.

Perhaps this is something DSI also does and they're fantastic to work with.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Is it possible to remove the front axles and diff and still drive the truck in RWD?
 

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LILL BLU - '03 Ram 3500 QCSB, 4WD, 6 spd SLT Laramie, MBRP 4" turbo-back exhaust.
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AFAIK, for 03-04 stock truck, no other fuse box, all fuse/relays are in engine compartment fuse box (PDC)
Power windows have circuit breaker under dash.
Never had good luck with clamp meter for 12 volt low amp circuits.
let truck go to sleep check at pdc with amp meter.
If you don't know where is ECM is you really should spend some time under the hood and familiarize your self with 3rd gen by reading FSM and other info found here.
Agreed! It's always a great idea to get your hands on any/all FSM for a vehicle you plan on keeping and doing your own maintenance/trouble shooting. Best money i've ever spent over the years was on buying the FSMs for my vehicles.
As for you commenting the "fuse box" was referred to as PDC (Power Distribution Centre i'm guessing?) i was told by Chrysler Canada (when i had to replace mine) that it's referred to as TIPM ('TIP-IM' Total Intergrated Power Module) as it is more then just a "fuse box" withball of the circuit boards under the fuses/relays.

I'm just curious if there are different descriptions used for the same component, between the USofA and Canada.
 

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The front axles and diff still spin with the front driveshaft taken out so the problem points more at the front driveshaft than the diff
I’m not sure but I would think you could drive the truck with the axles pulled out... Make sure nothing is flopping around or could come loose.
I used to get an awesome discount from motion industries, through the place I worked, and I always got high quality bearings, no matter what the brand was. The only brand I ever heard the stores badmouth was Bower, GMs brand, and that’s the reason they didn’t sell Bower.
I used drive train industries in Denver when I was trucking, for almost everything that broke, In the drive train. I’m sure there are plenty of other good places. Yes, try DSI. Craig
 
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Agreed! It's always a great idea to get your hands on any/all FSM for a vehicle you plan on keeping and doing your own maintenance/trouble shooting. Best money i've ever spent over the years was on buying the FSMs for my vehicles.
As for you commenting the "fuse box" was referred to as PDC (Power Distribution Centre i'm guessing?) i was told by Chrysler Canada (when i had to replace mine) that it's referred to as TIPM ('TIP-IM' Total Intergrated Power Module) as it is more then just a "fuse box" withball of the circuit boards under the fuses/relays.

I'm just curious if there are different descriptions used for the same component, between the USofA and Canada.
As far as service manual, all 3rd gens no matter country of origin, are split by years, 03-05 have IPM which is 2 parts , pdc and FCM plugged into/connected to side , one serial network.
06+ have TIPM, one piece PDC with 3 network system.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Also... on the tail light issue... turns out the previous owner bubble gummed that thing (3 bulb circuit board) together after a minor rear end incident.

I have since ordered a new one and we'll see if I get my signals back. I am pretty sure I verified that the wiring is good since I swapped the other side over.

Happy thanksgiving!

And now, your moment of zen...
 

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Discussion Starter #79
915590


So this pic didnt attach to the last post, but it felt good to watch wood burn a few nights ago.

In truck news, the new tail light circuit board came in and still not rear drivers lights.

I think the nasty wiring we cut out (lots of bubble gum insulation) had at least one functional wire. If the main harness has a white wire going to the rear that interfaces with the tail lights, then I'll likely need to add a jumper.
 
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