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Déjà vu, I don’t miss the uninsulated and unheated pole barn/shed on the Iowa farm! Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Oh dont get me wrong. I have outgrown that crap, but will do it if schedule deems necessary.

On another note, the new driveshaft is in, but it the nice shiny yolk side has about 2" exposed whereas the OEM one has none showing. I assume this is ok, but figured I'd ask...
 

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I take it you had a two piece shaft. The carrier bearing would have held the front shaft in a fixed position and it didn’t need to slide. Now you have a one piece shaft and that yolk has to have some leeway to slide as the axle moves up and down. Hopefully you have enough spline contact to guide the yoke smoothly, as it slides.
After all the 2+ driveshaft trucks I’ve had, I’ve only had to replace two of my own carrier bearings and the second one was done on my 2012, a year ago. I’ll keep my two piece shafts, for no more trouble than they have been. I sure replaced a boat load of axle, wheel and carrier bearings when I had a gas station/garage, 50 years ago. Craig
 
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Discussion Starter #44
Yeah... I emailed DSI also to see what they had to say. I would post the pic here, but the format of my phone camera changed the images to .heic or something and this site doesnt like them. Ah well.
 

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I wouldn’t want any less than that. Did they re-use your old yoke with a seal groove worn in it? Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I wouldn’t want any less than that. Did they re-use your old yoke with a seal groove worn in it? Craig
I still have my old drive shaft. I pulled it off the truck right before I installed this one. Since the new one is all aluminum, I'm not sure where the base parts come from.
 

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It’s probably not worth worrying about. If that really is a groove that I see on the slip yoke, it looks like it’s too far back to ever harm anything. Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #49
From DSI:

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Length looks correct - the yokes used to have a damper ring installed on the step up portion of the yoke.
The last inch or so not usable as it is a slightly larger diameter.
We typically set it with .75 to 1 inch of usable yoke behind the boot seal.

Looks good."
 

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Yep, how mine looks. Make sure you remove the mounting box for the carrier bearing though if you didn't. Unless you want to have a really bad day lol.
 
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Discussion Starter #51
Yeah I took the box out. There is the mount for the box that is still under there but it was cold and was running out of time. I'll get it at some point.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
So the rear output if the transfer case is definitely leaking.

Time to go hunt for a part number.

Also, DSI suggested I remove that shaft to see if the high speed vibration goes away at 70-80 MPH, so this might be a two birds, one stone thing...

1. Drain transfer case
2. Remove shaft.
3. Drive truck and check for vibration?
4. While case is drained, remove and replace input/output seals?

Thoughts?

Is this a bad idea for any reason (other than temporary loss of 4x4)?
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I lied. It's the front differential's rear INPUT seal that is leaking...

Part number searching continues as does the one for the star bit needed for front diff disassembly.
 

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Just buy a set of torks bits with square drives, they’re cheap. There’s several torks head screws used on these trucks.
As you probably already know, FCA Loctites all that stuff. Add a little rust and those bolts come out really really hard. Getting that front shaft out is an exercise in persistence. I had to keep those 4 front torks bolts soaked with kroil for two days. I unbolted the back end of the front shaft first and tied it up against the floorboard with a rope so I could get a straighter shot at the front bolts. After all the soaking, I still had to adapt my torks bit so I could use an impact wrench, on it, to get the bolts out.
with the front shaft out, I could finally do a thorough search for the elusive grease hole in the center of the cardan joint and there was no hole. What looked like a metal ring, around the center joint, was just a rubber dust boot. I already had a 16 gauge hypodermic grease needle and all I had to do is stick it under the end of the boot to grease the joint. It wasn’t necessary to poke the needle through the rubber boot. I wonder how many of those joints were built that way. Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Wow...super helpful. I did have hopes of doing this in GA and then testing on the drive. We will see.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
In other news, I finished pulling each fuse and relay out one by one and got no real improvements in long-running current draw.

Where is the ecm located on this thing? Under the fuse panel or in the cabin somewhere?

I shall look.
 

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I figure, it’s good to share our experiences… I am happy to help.
The ECM is on the left side of the engine block just below the intake elbow. You might have to peel off some tape and open up the wiring loom and it’s a 10 gauge wire. There’s also more fuses in the cab, in the end of the dash, just inside the drivers door. There’s sort of a pie shaped, thin, plastic cover that you have to pry off to get to that inside fuse panel. I never had to replace any of those fuses so I don’t know what all they feed.
Pretty soon you’re going to know your 03 as well as I knew mine! Craig
 

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Turbo LS, are you still using an amp clamp to find that parasitic draw? I wouldn’t trust an amp clamp for that low of current unless I checked the calibration all the way down to zero. Doesn’t your DMM have a 10 amp or some low range on it.? Craig
 
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Discussion Starter #59
The dmm current mode might not be working. I bought the clamp meter specifically for this problem.
 

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HMMM.... JUST HMMM!! If you trust it...
 
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