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Hopefully it’s as minor as it looks. Have you tried tightening the pan bolts? I had to on my 03. Craig
 
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Might just be truck marking its territory?
I would disconnect batteries to avoid shorting something out, degrease wash engine try find origin of leaks.

Yeah terminology can get very confusing.
You have a Common Rail Truck which does have 24 valves but not called 24 valve that usually refers to 2nd gen engine platform/series, don't want to get wrong parts.
03-07 engine is HPCR or CR engine quite different then 2nd gen 24 valve.
Where are you getting cummins parts from ?
be careful of counterfeits!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Also... went to go do move the truck and... clicky clicky...

I go to pop the hood and check the battery voltage with a meter and while il under there, the hood struts decide to fail...

My back doesn't like me right now.

Anyway, my dmm doesnt capture the parasitic draw when in current mode so I need a better meter before starting to pull fuses.

I also noticed the digital dash isnt showing, so maybe that is leaking current even with the truck off?

More pics to come...
 

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Discussion Starter #25
So, after I get the new tires put on, I'll do some electrical debugging. Today was getting the new exhaust put on.

I was watching this video from youtube where this guy was saying that the 1st 3 cummins generations had an issue where a dowel that secures the timing chain cover in place works it's way out and can kill the engine.

How hard is it to get to that dowel? Is it possible with the engine installed or does it need to come out of the truck?
 

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That doesn't affect CR engines, careful listening to YouTube people lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Ok awesome... one less thing to worry about.

In other news, that new one piece driveshaft shows up tomorrow! I'm excited!
 

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And early 03 problem was with the steel alternator bracket cracking but mine never did. Another problem was with differentials being shipped low on lube but those problems are history, now. I think another problem was vibrations but I never had that problem either. Those problems would also be history, by now. Craig
 
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great truck, i have an early 04, auto.
if your doing injectors i'd really suggest the BBi ones. my stock ones were finally ready to be replaced at 286K.
go over the brakes. shocks, get the newer 08 steering parts. better balljoints, blend doors. it'll be a great truck and last a long time!! congrats on the purchase.
leave it stock if you want it to last. i see them all the time with 200-150K miles and dead from upgrades, the ones that have 300+K like mine are stock!!.
on get better fuel filtration asap.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Yeah, I have heard a lot about the fuel filtration... I dont have the 2um filter yet, but we will see after the first haul with this truck next week.
 

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I ran my 03 with bad AC damper actuators for a couple of years and then I fixed them just before I sold it, at 95K miles. Mine had the infinity amplified speakers and the amplifier is right above the glove box and it’s right smack in the way of replacing the outside air damper actuator and it was a royal PITA. I had to make all the tools, long reach, to get to all the fasteners. The other actuators were a breeze compared to that SOB. Craig
 
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Discussion Starter #32
Yeah.. the a/c blows cold, but only on full blast. I believe the fan switch is messed up.

I also discovered the airbox is cracked when I was messing with the batteries.

Ah well.

Exhaust is repaired and she is getting new tires today.

Question to killer: what do you mean by blend doors? That's a new term for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
So... learned some more things today....

The trailer brake controller is DOA.

I have a "cargo light" warning illuminated on the dash... (and trailer lights dont appear to work, which agrees with this light).

I think my rear passenger brake light might he out also...

Lame.

Oh, and to top it off, a tree branch fell and smashed the windshield on my F250. Ah well.

#lumberjack problems.
 

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The heater treater site has good instructions to diagnose and replace the doors. If you replace any of the doors don’t use the Dremel cutting bit. Use a sharp utility knife to cut the plastic housings open and then the pieces will fit really nice when you put it back together and silicone over the cuts. Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Quick q: do I need to grease the splines on the one piece drive shaft? Motor oil? urea grease?
 

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With a one piece shaft, the slip yoke goes into the transmission tail housing or else the transfer case and the spline and bushing get lubricated by the case lubricant. Craig
 
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Discussion Starter #38
So, I did some fuse pulling while the clamp meter was on.. something is pulling a consistent .9A and it didnt drop down much when pulling out each fuse on by one. It got too cold out to do the relays but that is next, followed by the brake controller box itself (in the event it has it's own fused power connection to the battery away from the under hood fuse box.
 

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Just for kicks, did you check the draw on the wire that goes directly to the ECM? I agree, .9 is too much. Just out of curiosity, I checked the parasitic draw on my 03 when I had it. IIRC, when I first turned off the key, the draw was about .9 but after a few seconds it dropped down to .1 to .2, nearly 0. Some of that draw is the radio but I don’t know how much. Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Didnt do that yet, but will after I make my first stop. Just got the new 1 piece driveshaft just about installed. All that is left is torquing the flange bolts. And my hands are freezing and numb lol.

Totally lost track of temperature because I was "in the zone."
 
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